The best crochet stitches for sweaters & garments

If you’ve seen my portfolio of crochet patterns then you will know that I love to design crochet garments.

Crocheting clothes is my thing.

One of the most fun and fundamental parts of the crochet design process is deciding on a stitch pattern to use. That might simply be using an existing stitch pattern or developing something new.

Over the years I have experimented a lot with different crochet stitches and stitch patterns in garments. I’ve learned a lot about what does and doesn’t work (in my opinion at least!), and in this post I want to share these lessons with you.

Whether you are designing your own crochet garments, freestyling something as a one-off or looking for tips on how to choose a crochet garment pattern, I hope you will find some useful information and guidance here.

First off, I will talk about the key factors to consider when choosing a stitch pattern to use when crocheting clothes. This will help you to evaluate any stitch pattern yourself and think about how you may wish to use it.

Secondly I will share my favourite garment stitches, explaining why, in light of the considerations, I chose them.

The term ‘best’ (used in the title of the post) is obviously subjective and you may have different favourites, but these are the stitches I go back to time and again for crochet garments.

What to think about when choosing crochet stitches for garments

There are several things I suggest you consider when choosing what crochet stitch or stitch pattern to use for a garment, but the key ones all have one thing in common; they all relate in some way to functionality. (Clearly you also need to like how the stitch looks, but the issues I discuss here are more about practicality.)

Function is a key part of design in any context, but I don’t often see it talked about in relation to crochet or crochet stitch choice.

But when making an item of clothing that will stand multiple wears and washes, this function matters!

Here are some of the key questions to ask of your proposed stitch pattern:

Do you want the stitch to be opaque or see through?

When I started designing crochet garments, I wanted them to ‘not be see through’.

I wanted to create an opaque fabric but not something so thick that I would look like I was wearing my whole wardrobe at once (Yes, I’m thinking of that scene from Friends of Joey wearing ALL the clothes!).

Working with opaque crochet fabrics was an obsession of mine for a while and I put together a list my favourite solid crochet stitches in this post.

Opaque crochet fabrics can be quite dense, so there are a lot of ‘yarn eaters’ in my opaque stitches list, but I did include a subsection with specific suggestions of solid stitches for garments. It was actually revisiting that post recently which inspired me to dig deeper into what makes a good garment stitch (and write this article).

Garment stitches don’t always have to be opaque, it’s totally down to personal preference. But, this property should be thought about either way. I guess the simple question to ask is; Do you want to be able to see what you’re wearing underneath?

If the answer is no (maybe for a skirt or winter sweater for example) or not really, then you’re going to want a solid stitch. If the answer is yes or it doesn’t matter, (a light sweater to be worn over a tank perhaps) then you won’t have to consider opacity when choosing a stitch.

Because my answer to this question is generally ‘no, I don’t want it to be see through’ (or at least not completely see through) the challenge becomes finding a stitch or pattern that has that great combination of opacity and drape.

Spoiler – I think my top 5 all find a good balance of these features.

I want something functional that looks pretty (which I know is subjective), moves well and isn’t too bulky.

This is what I define as a ‘good’ crochet stitch for a garment. But again, this is my personal preference.

The other feature to touch on here is warmth. A garment that uses a more opaque pattern is, generally speaking, going to be warmer. That said, there are exceptions and other mitigating factors here – check out my thoughts on what makes a cosy crochet stitch. It’s another functional aspect worth thinking about.

How will it drape?

Drape is a big factor when it comes to crochet garments. I go into detail about what drape is and how I think you can achieve it in this article, but share a couple of thoughts below.

A garment needs to move with its wearer to be practical and comfortable. This comes down to two main factors; drape and construction. The drape needs to match the function and construction of the garment.

It’s all very well picking the waffle stitch because it’s opaque and looks fabulous, but it’s a pretty chunky stitch. Will you be able to move comfortably in your finished sweater?

If you’re crocheting a jacket, then you may want quite a stiff fabric which holds its shape, but for a cardigan you may want something floaty. Your stitch pattern is going dictate the desired drape in both cases.

Here’s a little tip when it comes to drape: Hook size matters!

Let’s say you have found a stitch that you love but it’s pretty chunky and stiff – going up 3 or 4 hook sizes can transform it into something quite different.

It’s not a garment, but in my recent shawl pattern, One Thousand Stars, I used star stitch. This stitch traditionally creates a thick and relatively stiff fabric. But I used a 6mm hook with a fingering weight yarn and the result was a beautifully drapey fabric.

You can see how it moves in the video below

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How is it going to wash and wear?

Practicality is a big ticket item for me.

I confess I am a bit lazy when it comes to hand washing delicate items. I like my garments to be robust and durable and tend to pick stitch patterns to suit that requirement.

Other people love to create delicate elegant items that they are much better at looking after than I am. If that’s you, I salute you!!

Which do you prefer?

When considering practicality, think about whether your garment needs a lot of blocking or not.

This is partly dependent on the fibre, but the stitch pattern has a lot to do with it. If you’re working with a super lacy open stitch pattern, you will likely need to carefully block it after each wash.

If it’s something simpler, you may be able to dry the item flat without pinning (read this post on blocking for more thoughts on when why and how to block your crochet projects.

Washing and blocking your swatch is a great way to experiment with this.

In fact, making a swatch and treating it as you would the finished garment is the best way to test your stitch choice across the board.

Does the stitch pattern stretch?

This is an extension of the previous consideration, but deserved calling out specifically as it’s an area where I have made mistakes before.

Stretch is also impacted by the fibre and construction method so you need to evaluate your stitch in terms of these factors too.

If your stitch pattern stretches a lot, think about whether the construction of the garment will stop this becoming a problem over time. Consider the seams and how they may keep a stretchy fabric in check.

I often introduce slip stitches into a design where I think stretch may be an issue. For example on the straps of tops (like the Imperfect Summer vest) or around button bands.

The any yarn will do cardigan has slip stitches around the button band. Although it does not use a particularly stretch stitch, longer cardigans do have a habit of submitting to gravity over time and this just helps stop the stretch going beyond a certain point.

Using sewn seams with very little give can be another way to avoid this.

Most crochet stitch patterns will stretch to some extent, but make sure that what you’re working with won’t render the garment unwearable! You don’t want to spend all that time and effort on creating a beautiful garment that you only wear twice because it stretches so badly out of shape!

How easy is the stitch to increase and decrease?

This question is definitely one for the freestylers and budding crochet designers to ponder.

Say you’re making a sweater and you want the sleeves to be narrower on the wrist than the bicep (which is pretty standard of a sleeve!). You’re going to need to make increases or decreases in that sleeve (depending if it’s made cuff up or shoulder down).

So you need to think about how to increase and decrease your stitch pattern.

If you’re just working on a single stitch, this isn’t going to be a problem. But say you’re working with a chevron pattern with a stitch multiple of 14+1 (as I am with my current wip!) then you’re going to have to put a lot more thought into how those increases or decreases are going to work.

If you want some help with this, I recommend Dora Ohrenstein’s amazing book Crochet Every Which Way which is a stitch dictionary which shows you how to increase and decrease the stitch patterns included. It’s my favourite stitch directory by a mile because of all the thought that goes into it (and I have a lot of crochet books!)

What is the best yarn weight for crochet clothes?

This is a question I see asked quite often and there isn’t really a right answer. It is possible to make a beautiful crochet garment in any yarn weight.

What matters is that you understand work with the features and properties of the yarn weight and fibre you have chosen.

If yarn weight is something that confuses you (and you aren’t alone if that’s the case) then this article discusses it in quite a lot of detail.

My current personal preference for garments is fingering weight and dk (double knit). But I also love the challenge of creating elegant garments with super chunky yarn. That doesn’t really narrow it down does it! It’s a bit like asking me to pick my favourite film… It depends what I feel like!

What is the best hook size to use for crochet garments?

When following a pattern, what matters is that you use a hook size which allows you to meet the gauge given. If you crochet tight you may need to go up to meet gauge or, if you crochet loose, you may need to use a smaller hook.

Make the swatch and see what works!

If you’re creating something without a pattern, then first and foremost, your hook size will be related to the yarn weight you have chosen.

Given what we have discussed about drape, I almost always use a hook size larger than that recommended for use with the yarn.

Often I go 2 or 3 sizes up to increase drape.

Swatching with different hook sizes is the best way to make such decisions. It never ceases to amaze me how different the same stitch can look when crocheted with different tension.

So there we have my list of considerations for selecting a suitable crochet stitch for a garment.

Now to share my favourites!

Top 5 crochet stitches for sweaters and garments

These are my top 5 recommendations for crochet stitches to use when crocheting clothes.

The suggestions are based on my personal preference, experience as a garment designer and the characteristics discussed above. I would love to hear if you have other favourites.

For each stitch I include a summary of why it works well for garments, give written instructions and also link out to a more detailed tutorial.

Notes for stitch instructions

• I use Standard US Crochet Terms and Abbreviations for the instructions 
• Instructions after * asterisks should be repeated as indicated
• Instructions between [square brackets] are repeated the specific number of times stated

1. Half double crochet

If I had to choose my favourite of the basic crochet stitches to crochet a garment with, then it would be half double crochet (hdc). In fact I have done this with the Cosy Up Sweater which is made entirely in half double crochet (UK half treble).

Single crochet is too monotonous and the fabric can be too dense for my liking, whereas double crochet can be quite gappy (see my previous thoughts on opacity!). Half double crochet give you the best of both and I love how the fabric looks in it’s simple form, with a kind of subtle natural rib.

Plus I really enjoy the rhythm of the stitch as I work hdc. It’s not one I ever get bored of.

You can find a video tutorial for the half double crochet in my crochet basics section or read on for the written instructions.

Half double crochet (hdc) – written instructions

Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over pull through all 3 loops to complete the stitch.

Note that I chain 1 to start a row of hdc and do not count this as a stitch. You may see other’s using a chain 2 to start an hdc row.

In general, I only tend to count turning chains as stitches if there is a functional need to do so as part of the pattern.

I also love the amazing variations that you can use with half double crochet. The classic example is working in the back loop or third loop to create ribbing.

2. Moss Stitch

Moss stitch generally makes every list of my favourite stitches for x, y and z… because it’s just great for everything! It’s pretty much my all time favourite.

But in the context of garments, here’s why I love it;

Firstly, it creates a classic, but modern looking opaque fabric. It looks amazing with different colour yarns (giving an almost fair isle colourwork vibe in some cases) and it’s relaxing to work.

The chain spaces used in moss stitch are small enough that the fabric stays opaque but significant enough that they allow it to move well and ensure it isn’t too bulky.

You can also work the moss stitch pattern with other basic crochet stitches which works great for garments. Moss stitch worked in half double or extended single crochet (see below) for example looks awesome!

The Free flow sweater uses moss stitch with extended single crochet (keep reading for the latter) – two of my favourites in one!

You can find a more detailed moss stitch tutorial (including video) here, or read on for the written instructions.

Moss stitch – written instructions

Work an odd number of chains or chainless foundation single crochet for your first row;

Row 1: Ch2 (counts as 1sc, ch1 throughout), skip (sk) first 2 sts, 1sc in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: Ch2, 1sc in first ch1-space, *ch1, sk 1 sc, 1sc in next ch1-space; rep from * to end, turn

(note that the last stitch will be worked into the ch2 made at the beginning of the previous row as this is equivalent to 1sc and ch1)

Repeat Row 2 for the pattern

Moss stitch is also known as linen or granite or tweed stitch (so many names for the same thing!). If you’ve never tried it, then I implore you to give it a go – even just for a scarf or something simple!

3. Extended crochet stitches

Strictly speaking, the extended crochet stitch is more of a technique than a single stitch, because you can work an extended version of any of the basic crochet stitches.

With extended crochet stitches, you are essentially adding an extra ‘yarn over, pull though one loop’ to your stitch after you insert your hook and pull up that first loop.

The simple extra step creates a bit of distance between the top of the previous row and the bottom of your stitch. This creates more movement between rows and results in taller stitches.

The resulting fabric is slightly thinner than the traditional version of the stitch and will have more movement and drape, which makes it perfect for lighter weight garments.

The pattern creates a simple flat texture with a slight zig zag shape when worked in turned rows.

I also find that extended crochet stitches are more economical in their yarn use than their traditional counterparts.

Garments tend to use a lot of yarn, so working them in extended stitches is a great way to make your yarn go further, without compromising on the quality of the item you’re making.

I love the look of the fabric extended stitches create and use the extended single crochet a lot in my designs. Most notably both in the Any yarn will do sweater and cardigan patterns.

I have made a LOT of garment samples in this stitch and I am still not bored of it. For me, it has that same pleasing rhythm has half double crochet has.

Below is a close up of the extended single crochet from the Any yarn will do cardigan 4 ply yoke (you can see the full garment in the picture further up this post).

Below you will find the written instructions for the Extended Single Crochet. You can find a full tutorial for the extended single crochet here and a tutorial for the extended double crochet here (you can extend any stitches pretty much!)

Extended single crochet (esc) – written instructions

• Step 1: Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)
• Step 2: Yarn over, pull through 1 loop – this is the extended bit (2 loops on hook)
• Step 3: Yarn over, pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch

You can turn the other basic stitches into an extended stitch by adding step 2 after you have inserted your hook and pulled up your first loop then continuing the stitch as normal.

4. Herringbone double crochet

Herringbone double crochet (hbdc) – written instructions 

Herringbone stitches are so called as the way the stitches slant when worked in rows creates a traditional herringbone pattern. Typically this stitch is worked as a double crochet or half double crochet.

As I write out this list, I have realised how similar some of my preferred stitches are in that they make small modifications to basic stitches in order to increase opacity and drape. Herringbone is no different.

Herringbone stitches are actually very similar to extended stitches. I would say that herringbone creates a slightly more opaque fabric than the extended stitches and a more pronounced slant.

The drape on herringbone double or half double crochet, when worked with a relaxed tension, is a pure delight!

Below you’ll see herringbone double crochet in use in the Light Fandango sweater, which is all about floatiness and drape.

Here’s another video so that you can see how it moves (It’s really hard to convey drape in still photos!)

You can find a full photo and video tutorial for Herringbone Double crochet here. 

Herringbone double crochet (HBdc) – written instructions

• Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch
• Step 2: Yarn over, pull a loop through the stitch and continue to pull through the next loop on the hook (2 loops left on hook)
• Step 3: Yarn over, pull through 1 loop (2 loops left on hook)
• Step 4: Yarn over, pull through 2 loops to complete the stitch

Really, once you know how to do the HBdc, then herringbone half double crochet (HBhdc) is kind of intuitive: Just repeat steps 1 and 2, skip step 3 and work step 4 to complete the herringbone half double.

5. Linked crochet stitches

Like the extended stitches, linked crochet stitches are more of a technique. They can be worked in half double, double treble and taller crochet stitches.

Linked crochet stitches create a link to the previous stitch across the post of the stitch, which means you don’t get the gaps between stitches you often see in other crochet stitches. This takes care of the issue of opacity when we think about garments.

I generally recommend that when crocheting linked stitches, you go up a couple of hook sizes, which gives the fabric a beautiful drape, checking off my second requirement.

This is similar to the guidance given for Tunisian crochet and there’s a reason for this. Linked crochet stitches are basically the same technique as Tunisian crochet simple stitch but worked at a 90 degree angle. So a linked double is essentially the same as a Tunisian simple stitch row with only 3 stitches, worked vertically instead of horizontally.

If Tunisian crochet is something you find intimidating, don’t let this put you off. Learning linked crochet stitches is a really good way to introduce you to Tunisian. It’s much simpler than you may think!

I love the look of linked crochet stitches. Because you can work them in any stitch height from half double crochet and up, there is amazing scope for how they can be arranged.

The Corona Summer vest (yes, I know the name is unfortunate but it was designed pre-2020!) uses linked stitches of varying heights.

Below you see it from the back (to show off the keyhole feature!)

If you want to have a play with linked crochet stitches without making a garment, I created the expansion scarf which is a free crochet pattern that allows you to practice this technique.

Skill Level: Experienced beginner – intermediate. 

Stitches used: Chains, half double crochet and taller stitches – the instructions are given for a linked double crochet.

Stitch and Row Multiple: You can work linked crochet in any stitch and row multiple.

For the sake of ease I’ll describe linked double crochet (ldc) here (UK linked treble), but you can find a full tutorial for linked half double and linked double crochet here and linked treble crochet here.

Linked double crochet (ldc) – written instructions

With linked double crochet stitches, you essentially create the yarn over used to begin a typical double crochet by working into the horizontal bar of the previous stitch. This is what links them together. For the first stitch of a row, you will work into the starting chain – this is called the beginning linked double crochet

Beginning linked double crochet:

• Step 1: Chain 3 to start the row (this does not count as a stitch)
• Step 2: Insert hook into second chain from hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)
• Step 3: Insert hook into the first stitch of the row, yarn over pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
• Step 4: [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice to complete the first stitch

Linked double crochet (used for all stitches after the beginning ldc):

• Step 1: Insert hook under the horizontal bar of previous stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook)
• Step 2: Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
• Step 3: [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice to complete the stitch

Repeat the ldc across your row.

How to combine crochet stitches to use in garments

I have limited my favourites list to just 5 stitches, but it would be remiss of me not to offer some advice about combining the basic stitches.

I touched on this when I mentioned working in the back loops for half double crochet. Working into back or front loops or into chain spaces is an excellent way to help facilitate drape and movement in a crochet fabric.

Something like a v-stitch is a great example of this, which nearly made the top 5!

Similarly, working between the posts of stitches is another interesting way to modify simple stitches which I’ve seen used to great effect in crochet sweater patterns.

If you’re newer to crochet, and not sure what I mean by ‘ between the posts’ this then check out my article on crochet stitch anatomy. I use this technique in one of my patterns and it always seems to catch people out, but I’m not sure how to word it better!

Once you understand how a crochet stitch is constructed, you can think about how to use it’s features to achieve the results you’re looking for!

I encourage you to explore playing with all of these suggested stitches and techniques. Swatching can be such a creative part of crochet – you never quite know what you’ll end up with!

I hope you’ve found this post useful and have some new ideas about how to spice up your crochet game!

If you’re interested in crochet design, then you might find my other crochet design articles interesting.

Happy Hooking

Dx

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