| | |

Imperfect Summer: A simple crochet vest top patten

Dora hooks her thumbs in the pockets of her denim shorts as she looks to the floor of a wooded area, modelling a blue floaty crochet vest top on a sunny spot.

When I think about summer crochet garments, the first elements that come to my mind, as a crochet designer, are; drape, lightweight and simplicity.

The ‘Imperfect Summer’ Crochet Vest Pattern was designed with these words in the forefront of my mind

You can purchase the Imperfect Summer crochet vest pattern from Etsy, Love Crafts or Ravelry,

Dora stands side on in a sunny wooded area with one hand in the pocket of her denim shorts whilst she models a blue crochet vest top.

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here

Save to pinterest

You can also get this pattern as part of the Designer’s Pick Summer Bundle

button instructing to download from love crafts
ravelry favourite download button
Download from Etsy button

The inspiration behind the name

Calling a design imperfect may be a little on the risky side (or just plain daft!), so I wanted to share a little about what inspired that choice.

Over years gone by, I’ve found that summer brings with it this implied need for perfection. This idea that we need a perfect beach body, a perfect tan, perfect shoes, gardens, friends, partners, lives… and so on and so forth…

When the pandemic hit, I think that changed a lot of people’s perception on what actually matters, what actually constitutes perfect. (Like being able to spend time with loved ones for a start!)

I wanted to make something I could wear whilst out living my life

I hope that as a result, we all ditch that outdated idea of this thing called ‘perfect’ that society, culture, social media, magazines or whoever else defines.

I’m all for personal development, reaching for the stars and being the best me I can, but when the goal of perfection makes us miserable instead of motivated and energised, then it’s not really perfect is it?

A woman stands in front of some trees wearing a cornflower blue crochet vest top paired with denim shorts.

So here’s to rejecting the external idea of perfection and embracing the joys of imperfection and individuality and caring less about how we think other people view us.

I know that personally, I would rather focus on enjoying those sunny days in the moment than worrying about how my hair looks.

But what does that have to do with this crochet top pattern?

This idea of celebrating imperfection was at the heart this design. I didn’t want to make something for a flatlay (said with a tongue in cheek reference to the flat-lay image below!).

The Imperfect summer crochet top is laid out on a buttercup fulled meadow, paired with denim shorts, with a pair of flip flops and handbag to the side.

Essentially, I wanted to make something I could wear whilst out living my life.

The pattern uses a fingering weight linen and cotton blend yarn with a 5.5mm crochet hook – much larger than would normally be used with such light yarn.

Using a larger crochet hook than is typically used with a given yarn weight creates amazing drape as the stitches are open and airy.

With the larger hook comes more variation in tension, so your stitches may not all be exactly the same size… an invitation for imperfection!

In Imperfect Summer, the use of an oversized hook, paired with the natural texture of the linen creates a perfectly imperfect texture which I am just a bit in love with!

You can purchase the Imperfect Summer crochet vest pattern from Etsy, Love Crafts or Ravelry

A close up if the top front of the imperfect summer vest top, highlighting the knit style texture of the crochet.

About the Imperfect Summer Crochet Vest Pattern

Imperfect summer is a lightweight, floaty summer camisole style vest, with all the drape and all the space. It’s a simple, easy to make crochet patten for a practical wardrobe staple.

With its oversized fit, there is lots of flexibility built into this design, which allows you to embrace your own unique crochet style.

The combination of the oversized hook with fingering weight yarn and the stitch pattern used creates a perfectly imperfect, almost knit-look kind of texture, as seen in the image below.

The stitch looks more open than a typical single crochet (yes, this is almost all single crochet!), but it still provides good coverage.

And remember when you’re finished, that this top is designed to be worn, not just to be photographed on a hangar or pretty meadow, then hidden in a draw. It’s made to be used!

It’s a ‘beach to street’ top that can be worn anywhere; thrown over a bikini or teamed with a cami for extra coverage. I live in vest tops like this all summer long, so I hope it will become one of your go-to tops too.

I want to share a close up of the strap and edging detail as I love how it works up. Because slip stitches are involved, it means your straps shouldn’t stretch out with wear – this was a very intentional part of the design.

A close up of the strap of the imperfect summer crochet vest, with a pair of scissors, the crochet hook and yarn used in the background.

I can see myself wearing this vest with a pair of palazzo pants to barbecues and lazy picnics and Pimms in the park.

For many, the focus of this summer is going to be outdoor reunions with friends and family. That is as close as perfect gets.

I can’t wait!

Pattern Notes

General Notes

  • Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
  • This pattern uses standard US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
  • Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
  • Turning chains do not count as stitches
  • Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches

Construction

  • The pattern is worked in two separate panels made from the bottom-up
  • The body panels are seamed together at the sides
  • Straps are worked from the front panel, joined to the back and a trim is added around the neckline and armholes to finish
Dora seen from behind standing in a wooded glade wearing a blue crochet vest top with denim shorts.

Skills Used

  • Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
  • Working in the front loop only and back loop only
  • Simple decreases (photo guide included for neck shaping)

This is a relatively easy crochet camisole pattern, made mostly of single crochets and worked flat in rows. It uses foundation rows, simple decreases, slip stitches and working in the front and back loops.

Its oversized, stretchy fit allows for a lot of flexibility in your tension, making it a great project for those newer to crocheting garments.

The pattern is worked from the bottom up in two simple panels which are seamed at the sides.

The straps are specifically designed not to stretch out with wear and can be adjusted for a custom fit. Guidance for this is given in the pattern.

The pattern includes photo guides for the simple shaping around the neckline, and links out to tutorials for any specific techniques such a foundation rows, seaming and blocking (a gentle blocking is optional but encouraged).

The pattern is written in English using US crochet terms.

A woman is seen from behind, wearing a blue crochet vest top with denim shorts as she stares into a wooded area.

Materials

Yarn & Crochet Hook

You will need 550(660, 740, 820, 900, 980, 1090)m of fingering weight yarn and a 5.5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge / tension (I used my clover amour hook).

The item pictured uses 4(5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) balls We Crochet, Lindy Chain in bluebell which is a fingering weight yarn made up of 70% linen, 30% pima cotton (50g ball = 164m/180yds). This is a chainette style of yarn which makes it super lightweight and floaty.

I love the raw, natural texture of linen and, teamed with super soft pima cotton, this yarn was really enjoyable to work with and has amazing stitch definition.

Yarn Substitution Options 

For this pattern I used a hook much larger than that recommended for the yarn weight. This is what creates the slightly open stitch work and all that drape. You can use an other similar weight and fibre yarn to create a similar effect.   

Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result. You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

If you want to learn more about cotton yarns (in particular what makes pima different), then this post I wrote a while back, digging into cotton yarn may interest you.

Other Materials & Notions 

  • 4 stitch markers (or scraps of contrasting yarn) are recommended
  • Yarn needle, scissors and a tape measure
  • You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a blocking matt and pins. Learn more about blocking here.

I also recommend using stitch markers for this project to mark where the underarm shaping starts so that when you come to sew together the panels at the side seams it’s easy to see where to work to.

Sizing

  • The vest is designed to be oversized in the body with 12-22cm of positive ease on the chest (i.e. 12-22cm larger than the body it is designed to fit) and 18-30cm positive ease on the hips, giving you lots of room for the fabric to move around 
  • You can adjust the length of the straps to suit your preference – guidance is given on this in the pattern
  • Measurements are given unblocked – the fabric created will be fairly stretchy (especially in the length) which will give some flexibility with sizing
  • Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given below to help you in choosing a suitable size for you / the recipient of the garment
  • The pattern is designed for adults and offered in 7 women’s sizes
  • Stitch and Row instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in bracket. i.e. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) Sts or Rows 
  • If you make any adjustments, the amount of yarn required will change. The meterage given for each size below is an approximation based on meeting gauge
  • The item you see pictured is a size S worn by me, UK size 8-10 (US 4-6), 5ft 1in

Measurements

Measurements below are given in cm and are approximated based on matching gauge

  • To fit bust: 76(86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136)
  • Finished bust circumference: 88(101, 110, 123, 132, 146, 158)
  • Hip circumference: 101(114, 123, 136, 146, 158, 171)
  • Length (from top of strap):62(64, 65, 65, 66, 68, 69)

The pattern includes a photo guide to help with the front neckline shaping and instructions on how to adjust the length of the straps for a custom fit.

Buy the pattern now from Etsy, Love Crafts or Ravelry

An off centre view of a woman in a crochet vest top made from blue linen yarn.

How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:

I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

  • BLO = back loop only
  • ch = chain
  • dec = decrease (denotes decrease row)
  • fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – see special stitches
  • FLO = front loop only
  • rep = repeat
  • RS = right side
  • sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
  • sc2tog = single crochet together (UK double crochet 2 together) – see special stitches
  • sc2tog FLO = single crochet 2 together over the front loops only (UK double crochet 2 together over front loops only) – see special stitches
  • sc3tog = single crochet 3 together (UK double crochet 3 together) – see special stitches
  • sk = skip (UK miss)
  • sp = space
  • ss = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • WS = wrong side
  • yo = yarn over

Special Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st. To start the next st, insert the hook into the ‘v’ of the base stitch, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat from * for required number of sts.

You can find more details on foundation rows including a tutorial here.

Single Crochet 2 Together over Front Loops Only (sc2tog FLO)

Insert hook into the FLO of the indicated st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the FLO of the next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete the stitch.

Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)

Insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete the stitch.

Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog)

Insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops in hook) yo, pull through 4 loops to complete the stitch.

Gauge

12.5 sts and 14 rows in 10cm of single crochet worked in the front loop only, using a 5.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge is based on an unblocked swatch. Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. The fabric will be prone to stretch.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

A flatlay of a crochet vest top laid out with denim shorts. Flip flips and an open bag lay to the side on a grassy meadow.

Purchase the PDF crochet pattern now from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy

The Imperfect Summer Vest Top Pattern

A quick tip before you start: Aside from the first row, the first and last stitch of each row on the body panels is a normal sc worked through both loops. The rest of the sc in the body panels are worked in the FLO.

Back Body

Make 1

Row 1: Make 63(71, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107) fsc

Row 2 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 1sc in first st, 1sc in FLO of each st to 1 from end, 1sc in last st, turn. 63(71, 77, 85, 91, 99, 107) sts

Rows 3 – 10: As Row 2

Row 11 (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn. 62(70, 76, 84, 90, 98, 106) sts

Row 12 (dec): As Row 11. 61(69, 75, 83, 89, 97, 105) sts

Rows 13 – 20: As Row 2

Rows 21 – 50: Rep rows 11-20. 55(63, 69, 77, 83, 91, 99) sts

Place marker at each end of Row 50, before starting the underarm shaping, so you can see where to sew the side seams up to when it comes to joining.

Underarm shaping begins

Row 51 (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in FLO of each st to 3 sts from end, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 53(61, 67, 75, 81, 89, 97) sts

Rows 52 – 55(55, 57, 57, 59, 61, 63) (dec): As Row 51. 45(53, 55, 63, 65, 69, 73) sts

Row 56(56, 58, 58, 60, 62, 64): 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn

Row 57(57, 59, 59, 61, 63, 65) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in FLO of each st to 3 sts from end, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 43(51, 53, 61, 63, 67, 71) sts

Rows 58(58, 60, 60, 62, 64, 66) – 71(75, 77, 77, 79, 81, 83): Repeat the last 2 rows (alternating non-decrease and decrease rows, finishing on a decrease row). 29(33, 35, 43, 45, 49, 53) sts

Fasten off

Front Body

Make 1

Repeat as for Back Body up to Row 65(69, 71, 69, 71, 73, 75)

You should have 35(39, 41, 51, 53, 57, 61) sts and end on a decrease row.

Continue to front neckline shaping, do not fasten off

The front side of the imperfect summer top after underarm shaping and before the neckline shaping is begun.

Front neckline shaping

Before you start the shaping, I want to add a note about strap length for you to bear in mind. At the end of each side of front shaping you will make a chain which will reflect the length of the strap.

I advise chaining 30 (around 20cm) for the strap, however, you can adjust this to suit your preference (discussed in the putting it together section), so make sure you leave a long tail to allow this.

First side

Continuing from previous row 

Note that I have used the terms first and second side rather than right and left so not to confuse crocheters of different dexterity / handedness.

Row 1 (RS): Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1sc in FLO of next 15(16, 17, 22, 23, 25, 26) sts, 1sc in next st, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. 17(18, 19, 24, 25, 27, 28) sts

The first row of the neckline shaping on the imperfect summer crochet top.

Row 2 (dec): Ch1, sk first st, ss in next st (these two sts are part of the decrease and do not count as sts), 1sc in next st (this is the ‘first’ st of the row as you count sts), 1sc in FLO of each st to 3 from end, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 14(15, 16, 21, 22, 24, 25) sts (3 sts decreased)

The end of the second row of shaping in the imperfect summer top.

You may wish to put a marker in the ‘first’ st of Row 2 so you can see the end of the row when working the next row.

Row 3 (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1sc in FLO of each st to 3 from end, 1sc in next st leaving 2 sts unworked, turn. 12(13, 14, 19, 20, 22, 23) sts (2 sts decreased)

Rows 4 -7(7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): Rep Rows 2 and 3. 2(3, 4, 4, 5, 2, 3) sts

Below you will see how the neck shaping decreases progress followed by separate instructions for each size.

Part way through the neck shaping section on a crochet summer top made in blue linen yarn.
The first few rows of neckline shaping are shown in a blue crochet top with a green 5.5mm crochet hook still attached.
A process shot of the first side neckline shaping on a crochet top.

For size XS

Row 8: Ch1, sc2tog, turn. 1 st

Row 9: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

For size S

Row 8: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 9: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

The first step in adding the first strap to a crochet summer vest top pattern.

For size M

Row 8: Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 3 sts

Row 9: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 10: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

For size L

Row 10: Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 3 sts

Row 11: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 12: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

For size 1X

Row 10: Ch1, sk first st, ss in next st (these first two sts are part of the decrease and do not count as sts), 1sc in next st, 1sc in FLO of next st, 1sc in last st, turn. 3 sts

Row 11: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 12: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

For size 2X

Row 12: Ch1, sc2tog, turn. 1 st

Row 13: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

For size 3X

Row 12: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 13: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or about 15-20cm for straps – see notes about strap length)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel, continue to second side

The end of the first side of neck shaping in the imperfect summer top before the strap is begun.

Second side

Continuing along from the end of Row 1 of the first side of shaping, sk 1(3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5) sts and rejoin your yarn in the next st. The first st of the second side of shaping will be made in the same st you joined your yarn in.

Below is a close up of the centre of the top showing where the yarn is joined for the second side which is shown on the right hand side.

A close up of the centre of the shaping on a linen crochet vest top.
The centre of the neckline shaping after the first row of the second side.

Row 1 (RS): Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1sc in FLO of each st to 1 from end, 1sc in last st, turn. 17(18, 19, 24, 25, 27, 28) sts

The beginning of the second side neckline shaping on a crochet vest top.

Row 2 (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in FLO of each st to 3 from end, 1sc in next st leaving 2 sts unworked, turn. 14(15, 16, 21, 22, 24, 25) sts (3 sts decreased)

Row 3 (dec): Ch1, sk first st, ss in next st (these two sts are part of the decrease and do not count as sts), 1sc in next st (the ‘first’ st of the row), 1sc in FLO of each st to 1 from end, 1sc in last st, turn. 12(13, 14, 19, 20, 22, 23) sts (2 sts decreased)

You may wish to put a marker in the ‘first’ st so you can see the end of the row when working the next row.

Rows 4 -7(7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): Rep Rows 2 and 3, finishing on a Row 2 repeat. 2(3, 4, 4, 5, 2, 3) sts

For size XS

Row 8: Ch1, sc2tog, turn. 1 st

Row 9: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size S

Row 8: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 9: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size M

Row 8: Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 3 sts

Row 9: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 10: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size L

Row 10: Ch1, 1sc in first st, sc2tog FLO, 1sc in last st, turn. 3 sts

Row 11: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 12: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size 1X

Row 10: Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1sc in FLO of next st, 1sc in next st leaving 2 sts unworked turn. 3 sts

Row 11: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 12: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size 2X

Row 12: Ch1, sc2tog, turn. 1 st

Row 13: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

For size 3X

Row 12: Ch1, sc3tog, turn. 1 st

Row 13: Ch1, 1sc, ch30 (or the same number as first side)

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew strap to back panel

the finished neckline with straps on the imperfect summer top.
The finished front panel before blocking.

Block your panels

I recommend blocking both pieces to help even out tension. When working with a larger hook than your yarn suggests, it’s easy for tension to be inconsistent and this is an intentional part of the ‘imperfection’ of this design.

However, it’s important to ensure the front and back panels are the same length and shape at the sides and underarms. Because it’s a lightweight garment, you can pin out both pieces on top of one another to make it easier to achieve the same shape, as seen in the image below.  

The imperfect summer crochet top pinned on a blocking board.

I used the steam blocking method. (Though my iron dribbled a little at the end, so do ignore the darker areas of water drops in the image!)

You can learn more about blocking here.

Putting it together

Side Seams

With RS together (WS facing out), stitch together the sides using mattress stitch (tutorial here), or seaming technique of your choice, from Rows 1 to 50 (i.e. from the foundation row up to the marked row before the underarm shaping started). Repeat on the other side.

Straps

At this stage I advise checking the length of your straps: Pin the last chain of each strap to the respective edge stitch on the last row of the back panel.

Try your top on to check you are happy with the length of the straps and how the top hangs across your chest and around the underarm (check for side-boob!).

Make sure you account for the edging, which you will add next. The neckline trim will measure about 1cm and the underarm trim around 0.5cm, so the finished strap is about 1.5cm wide.

Adjust the strap length by adding or removing chains, being sure to keep the straps the same on each side. In the first iteration of the design, I made a chain of 20, which created a higher neckline. But then I decided I wanted a lower drop so re-worked it – after I had sewn in all the ends (sob)! 

The depth of the underarm shaping means that there is a lot of flexibility with strap length, so you can really customise the top to fit your individual preferences. Once you’re happy with the length, sew the end of the chain into the respective edge stitch on the last row of the back.

A close up of the completed neckline of the imperfect summer top with a ball of lindy chain yarn, a crochet hook and embroidery scissors laying next to it.

Neckline

I have not offered a st count throughout the neckline section because it will depend on the length of your strap. When working with slip stitches, be sure to keep your tension even from row to row.

With RS facing you, join yarn to the second-to-last st at the end of the back panel, i.e., next to where you just sewed the strap so you’re ready to work up the strap; 

Round 1 (RS): Ch1, 1sc into the back hump of each chain in the strap, 1sc into each st across the front (when working over the shaping I suggest you work 1sc into each of the ss and ch1 where you made the decreases), 1sc into the back hump of each chain in the second strap over the shoulder to the back, sk the first st on the back panel that the chain is joined to, 1sc into each st along the back up to and including the stitch in which you joined your yarn (sk the st the other ch is joined to), ss to first sc, turn.

Check you are happy with the tension, particularly around the front shaping before continuing

Round 2: Ch1, sk first st on the back, ss in the BLO of each st across the back until the st before the strap, sk last st on the back, ss in the BLO of each st over the strap, around the front, over the second strap to end, ss to first ss, turn

Round 3: Ch1, ss in the BLO of each ss to end, ss to first ss

Fasten off

Underarm Trim

Repeat on both sides

With RS facing, join yarn to the top of the underarm seam;

Round 1 (RS): Ch1, ss into each row-end until you reach the strap, ss into the back of each chain in the strap, ss into each row-end down the other side, ss to first ss, turn.

Note that you may have a few more row ends on the front than the back (the number depends on the size you worked)

Round 2: Ch1, ss in the BLO of each ss to end, ss to first ss, turn.

Round 3: As Round 2

Fasten off

Sew in remaining ends, get out and make the most of your perfectly imperfect summer!

Dora, seen from the front, models the imperfect summer crochet vest top pattern in a sunny wooded area. Sunglasses rest on her head as her hand rest in her pockets.

How to find me and share your finished makes

  • On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
  • If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe” and share them there?
  • Sign up to the WiP Tip for weekly crochet chat, offers and exclusives straight to your inbox – click here to sign up.

Happy Hooking 

Dx

More Free Crochet Patterns

More Crochet Garment patterns

Copyright Dora Does Limited, Registered in England, Company Number 13992263. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared or reproduced in written, photo, video or any other form without prior written consent. All rights reserved. Terms of service.

Back to crochet patterns home

Leave a Reply