Blocking explained: When and how to block crochet projects

If you’ll pardon the pun, blocking my crochet projects was always a mental block for me. For years I just went lalalala whenever a pattern mentioned blocking and studiously ignored it.

Then I tried it… and it wasn’t nearly as scary as I thought…

In this post I explain what blocking is, why and how and when to block your crochet projects.

I have done a lot of research into blocking methods from around the web, books, courses and youtube and have summarised my findings, along with my personal experience of blocking, in this post.

I aim to reassure you too, that it’s not as intimidating as it can seem. And in addition to my normal disclaimer, as I so often find in crochet, there is rarely only one correct approach.

If learning by video is more your thing, my friend and crochet mentor Joanne Scrace from the Crochet Project has a video based coursed on blocking.

There is also a link to a YouTube video demonstrating one form of blocking linked further down the article.

You can now purchase a 19 page ad-free PDF ebook version of this post from Etsy.

What is blocking?

Blocking is essentially a way of using water to shape your crochet (or knit) fabric to achieve a more finished look. The moisture is added, the fabric is shaped and fixed (usually using pins or wires) then left to dry.

It is a very effective way to even out tension and, especially for open work, to really show off the pattern.

Commonly, blocking is used to help flatten areas where work has curled, highlight stitch definition and enhance the look of lace or textured stitches.

It is also used to evenly shape pieces; whether they are panels for a sweater or simple granny squares, finished items look a whole lot better if their parts are neatly shaped.

When a pattern says block to size, it usually means to dimensions (i.e. size and shape). Blocking can increase the size of an item by a small amount (depending on the stitch pattern), but it cannot generally make an item smaller.

Blocking can also help to improve the drape of a finished item.

I guess it could be compared to icing a cake. Without icing the cake will still taste good and fill you up (as an unblocked sweater will still keep you covered up and warm) but a decorated cake will look a lot more appetising than an unfinished one!

There are various ways of approaching blocking, some very quick and simple, some more involved. I will go through these options below.

Note that I use crochet as an example here but these blocking methods are the same for knitted items.

Should I block every crochet project?

Some purists might say absolutely, but honestly I don’t think it’s necessary in every project. It really depends on what it is and what it’s going to be used for.

Items like amigurumi rarely need blocking, where as accessories and homewaers are more of a grey area.

I usually block all my garments but to some extend it depends on the fibre and stitch pattern I’ve used.

For example, a simple beanie using easy stitches is going to get shaped and stretched into position as it is worn. If your hat has a complex stitch pattern or there is some issues with tension then it may be worth it but otherwise, imo, life is too short!! 😉

Crochet projects that may benefit from blocking:

• Anything with lace stitches
• Open work items or fillet crochet
• Garments
• Shawls / Scarves
• Squares for blankets (it’s a pain but it’s worth it!)
• Finished blankets (to get the shape right)

This is not an exclusive list but gives you an idea of the kind of things which would look better after blocking.

Should you block swatches?

If you’ve read any of my posts on gauge, you will know that I am a fan of always making a swatch for any crochet item which needs to fit.

A swatch should be treated the same way you treat the finished item. So, to me, it follows that if you’re going to wash and block the end project, then yes, you should wash and block your swatch!

It’s also a good way to see how the fabric will stand up to washing and blocking. Better to shrink a 5 inch swatch than a 30 hour sweater!

Always check the care instructions on your ball band for advice on how to wash your fabric. This post goes into more details about caring for your crochet.

Note that if blocking is an essential part of a pattern then the gauge statement should tell you if it relates to the blocked or unblocked stitch pattern – sometimes you will get one gauge measurement for each.

If the gauge doesn’t mention blocking, you might want to check in with the designer, especially if it’s a lacy pattern where blocking will change the gauge. For most of the designers I make, I give the gauge unblocked (because mostly my designs need very little blocking), but this can vary with different designers.

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Should I block my project before I sew in the ends?

The general consensus is that blocking before you sew in ends gives a better finished look, but it really depends on your project.

If you sew in ends and then block your work, the sewn in ends may cause some resistance meaning you don’t get an even look. If you sew in your ends after you have blocked your work then you know you are working with the final tension.

Materials used for blocking

Before we get into the actual process of blocking, below I have listed out some of the materials / tools you may wish to use for blocking, along with some alternate options. Some, but not all of these are essential and I explain how they are used throughout this ebook. 

• Water – you can soak your project in a clean bowl, basin, sink or bath, and you may also find a simple spray bottle useful
• Steamer or steam iron (for heat / steam blocking)
• Towel
• Blocking board or safe surface to pin out your project 
• Anti rust pins such as T-pins or knit blockers 
• Blocking wires may come in handy for shawls
• Tape measure 
• Patience 

Some of the larger yarn craft websites such as We Crochet and Love crafts sell blocking kits and tools.

How to block your crochet project

Blocking involves dampening the crochet fabric, shaping it to size, pinning it out and allowing it to dry.

Always remember to use rust proof pins when blocking to avoid getting orange marks on tour work!

I like these T-Pins (they are SHARP so be careful!!), but you can also use these cool knit blockers (which I haven’t used personally but they are on my list!), special blocking wires or even thread. More about that later!

First let’s look at the different ways you wet your fabrics and which version to use when.

Soak blocking

As the name suggests, soak blocking is a kind of ‘wet blocking’ which involves completely submerging your project in cold or room temperature water. You should allow the fabric to sit for around 15-30 minutes to allow the fibre to fully soak up the water.

Soak blocking is most commonly used with natural fibres, including wools (often in combination with a wool wash), cottons or bamboo and other superwash animal fibres.

Once you have allowed the fabric to fully soak, carefully squeeze out the excess water and lay it flat on a towel. Gently roll up the fabric in the towel and give it a soft press to take most of the water out.

Never ring out or scrunch up your item as it can damage or felt the fabric.

Once you’ve taken off the excess water, it’s ready for the blocking bit (i.e. the pinning out).

Note that in my experience, soak blocking doesn’t work well with acrylic yarn. The plastic fibres are water resistant so the whole endeavour is be a bit pointless.

My friend Fay from Fay DH designs and the Crochet Circle Podcast has a great video showing how she wet blocks her shawls. Watch it here.

Spritz Blocking 

Spritzing is another, form of wet blocking. It is helpful for items that only need a light block and uses a quicker way of getting moisture into your fabric.

Using a spray bottle, spritz clean water over your crochet, making sure it soaks through to the back of the fabric. Do this on a towel!

Your fabric will be damp but not soaked and ready to pin out.

Steam Blocking

Sometimes also called ‘dry blocking’ or ’heat blocking’. This method involves pinning out your crochet project to shape and size first, then steaming the fabric to relax it, before leaving it to dry.

Steam is an alternative way to get a small amount of moisture into your fabric. The added element of heat can be used to create shape and additional drape on your fabric. Please take all the necessary safety precautions when working with steam appliances and follow manufacturer guidelines.

Ideally you would use a garment steamer because you have more control, however a steam iron can work if you hover it an inch or so above the fabric. It’s important not to work too close to the fabric and not to apply direct heat to the fibres.

Steam blocking is the recommended method for blocking acrylic yarn and fibres which don’t do well with wet blocking. A warning here though; Do not apply direct heat to your fabric ever. In the case of acrylic, it can melt the fibres. So keep it at a distance.

It’s a fine line between using heat to ‘break’ and manipulate acrylic fibres and irreversibly flattening it. Never apply direct heat to any yarn. It can melt the acrylic fibres or flatten the stitches, irreversibly damaging it. Never place a hot iron onto your fabric, you may end up with quite the mess.

The same goes if you are working with any other delicate fibre. Keep the heat / steam at a safe distance.

With steam blocking, you will only get the fabric damp but it is still important to leave it pinned out until it is completely dry so it retains the shape.

How to pin out crochet or knit fabric for blocking

Whether you are using a wet or dry blocking method, you will need to shape your project and secure it in place, most commonly by using pins.

This is the bit that always caused me stress, so here is my advice on how to approach it.

Using Pins and a blocking board

Take your item (I’ve used a swatch to demonstrate) and lay it out on a clean blocking board or mat.

Note that blocking boards with measurements can be useful for blocking to size, but they aren’t essential. I have used an old yoga mat in the past and in this example am using a kids foam puzzle style play mat!

You might want to lay a clean colourfast towel underneath your work when blocking it as this will allow it to dry quicker (most blocking boards are water resistant so the underside can take much longer to dry).

If you do use a towel be sure that it is secured and does not slip about as you pin!
Also take care that your pins do not go through the board and scratch or damage the surface underneath. Keep your pins away from pets and children. (My cat likes to try chew on the tops and it terrifies me!)

Starting in the centre of your work, use your fingers to manipulate out the fabric to the tension you are looking for and work out towards the edges.

It may feel counterintuitive, but do not put your first pins in the corners. Pin in the centre of the sides and keep opening up the fabric out towards the corners.

In the pictures I am using knit pro T-pins which are super sharp (so please take care!), robust and easy to use, however any rust-proof dressmakers pins should work too.

Once you have the pins in the centre of the sides, continue to evenly shape the fabric, then you can add the pins in the corners.

You will see here that there are dips in the fabric between the pins. Carry on using your fingers to manipulate that fabric and place the next pins half way between the previous pins.

When pinning out, place the pins  around a cm or more in from the edge to minimise this dipping, particularly if you are bringing quite a lot of stretch to the project .

The next pin(s) should go half way across the gaps between pins and so on until you have your straight edges.

I place the pins at an angle away from the edges so that the fabric doesn’t slip.

If you are working with a larger or more complex shape, this process can take a while as you may need to adjust pins as you shape your work. Especially if you’re working with lace patterns.

Use a LOT of pins for perfect edges!

Once your damp fabric is pinned out simply leave it to air dry!

I have recently discovered a product called Knit Blockers, which are essentially a group of pins lined up – like a comb, if each tooth was a pin. I haven’t used these yet, but they look like a great way to avoid the little peaks you sometimes get with individual pins if you’ve aggressively pinned out your project.

How to pin out crochet garments when blocking

When pinning out finished garments (rather than flat pattern pieces), you may just want to focus on specific areas which may need more shaping.

In the picture below, which shows the Any Yarn Will Do Cardigan in the process of being pinned out to dry, I wanted to focus on getting a nice straight hem, even button band and neckline, so focused on those areas. The sleeves and the body needed very little attention.

This is the same regardless of whether you use the soak, steam, spritz or dry blocking methods.

The precise approach to pinning will depend on the shape and style of the garment you’re working with, but I wanted to include this image to give you an idea.

As I already alluded to, there is more than one way to shape your project when blocking it. Below are a couple of alternatives to pinning. In each case, shape the work and allow it to dry naturally.

Blocking Wire

Blocking wire is an alternative for bigger pieces or more delicate garments. It is great for shawls and items with straight sides (triangle shawls, blankets etc.).

Blocking wires are simply long sturdy, but flexible pieces of wire.

To use them, you weave the sides of your fabric onto the wire (think of the tip of the wire as a yarn needle) at regular intervals, spreading one side out evenly over the wire

This gets rid of those pesky peaks and troughs you sometimes get with pins.

First you will add 1 wire on each side of your project. Then either pin the wires out flat to shape or hang the piece from one of the wires, depending on the shape you’re working with.

Blocking wires come in different gauge / diameter suitable for different weight projects.

If you have an item with a curve in, then the thinner wires will bend to accommodate this. These may come in handy for those beautiful crescent shawls!

Blocking Peg Boards

If you make a lot of motif based blankets or accessories (such as granny square based projects), then pegged blocking boards could be the thing for you.

They are essentially boards with holes drilled into them at regular intervals, like peg boards, into which tall solid doweling type ‘pins’ (pegs) will fit.

Say you are blocking a granny square motif blanket, you can use the pins to mark out the square size then loop the corners (and maybe one or more points along the sides) over the pegs so that each of your squares is the same size.

A bonus feature of these boards is that the pegs are usually really long so you can block multiple squares at once. Don’t try too many at once though as the ones in the centre may not dry properly!

My lovely crochet friend becks at The Pigeon’s Nest makes handmade blocking peg boards.

Fiber content and blocking

Throughout the instructions, I have given some guidance about the best method for different fibres but I wanted to take a moment to clarify this.

Different fibres respond differently to different blocking methods, so here is a quick summary of how to block the most common fibre groups. This is just a rule of thumb and there may be exceptions, depending on how the fibre is spun for example. It is less easy to generalise with blends as this will depend on how the fibres are mixed.

• Wool and animal fibers respond well to all styles of blocking
• Cotton is hardy and can be resistant to blocking – wet blocking will give best effects
• Acrylic (in most forms) can be blocked with steam, but if it is exposed to to much heat it can ‘break’. This can be a way to soften up a blanket and increase drape. However, it is irreversible so if you want to try it then you need to know there is no going back!! Practice on a swatch!

Is blocking permanent?

Generally speaking, blocking is not permanent. But I would add some caveats to that

When you wash your crochet project, it you are essentially soaking it, so it’s like starting the soak blocking process over again. After the wash, you will need to dry it flat and pin it out to shape again.

That said, the extent to which the blocking is ‘undone’ when you wash your crochet item will depend on a number of factors, including the stitch pattern and fibre content, as well as the original blocking method used and your method of washing.

For example, an intricate, open lace wool shawl will need more blocking after washing than a cowl made with acrylic yarn using double crochet throughout.

That’s a simplistic example which gives you an idea of the variation. It’s hard to be definitive about which projects will retain the best stitch memory, but it’s the kind of thing that becomes more intuitive with experience. So give it a try!

I also think that the longer you wear a blocked crochet project, and the more often you re-block it, the less blocking it will need the next time. But that’s just my intuitive thoughts on the subject, others may see it differently. To be honest, I don’t wash my handmade garments that often. I prefer to spot clean. You can learn more about caring for your crochet garments here.

So there we have it. I hope that this has given you a good overview of the blocking process, rather than confusing you more!

I’d love to hear how you get on if you finally give blocking a go. I have learned that it is really worth the effort (I concede that it can be a bit of a palava) for that extra finished look.

Remember. If in doubt, try it with a swatch!!

Happy blocking!

Dx