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The Cosy Up Sweater – Free Crochet Sweater Pattern with Roll-neck & Thumb Holes!

Cosy Crochet Sweater with cuppa book glasses on sheep pelt

The Cosy Up Crochet Sweater Pattern is an easy crochet jumper which uses simple crochet stitches throughout.

This chunky pullover is perfect for crocheters looking to make their first garment or who want a simple, wearable addition to their crochet garment wardrobe.

This crochet pattern is the first release in association with the My Crochet Wardrobe Facebook group (open to anyone to join, just fill in the membership questions). The group is aimed at demystifying the crochet garment making process and you can learn more about it here.

2024 Update: In addition to the ad-free printable pdf version of the Cosy up sweater pattern available to purchase, this pattern is now also available to read on the blog for free (below) when you enter your email or sign into ‘grow’. You can read all of the information about the pattern below.

Purchase the pattern now from Ravelry, Love Crafts Crochet or Etsy

Dora wears a cosy looking turquoise roll neck crochet sweater with long sleeves as she cradles a cup of tea. A text overlay reads ‘free crochet sweater pattern.’

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About the cosy up sweater

The Cosy Up Sweater does exactly what it says on the tin.

Made with a soft chunky yarn, it uses simple stitches to create a cosy fit sweater with a tall roll neck for extra protection against the cold.

As if that wasn’t cosy enough, the long cuffs have thumb holes to add that extra feeling of comfort.

This is the perfect jumper for a winter afternoon walk or just to get cosy on the sofa with your favourite book!

Woman reading drinking tea in cosy crochet sweater

Pattern Notes

General Notes

  • Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
  • This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
  • Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
  • Turning chains to not count as stitches
  • The first stitch of each row / round should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous row / round, unless otherwise indicated (do not work in the slip stitch used to join the rounds)
  • Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches

Construction

  • The body of the sweater is worked bottom up in turned rounds
  • Simple shaping is added over the shoulders / underarms / front neckline 
  • Sleeves are worked in the round directly from the armholes
  • The cuffs, roll neck and hem are worked at right angles to the sleeves / body

Skills Used

This is a relatively easy make with a little shaping and minimal sewing. The pattern uses simple stitches (mostly half done crochet / UK half trebles) and easy decreases.

It is worked using rows and turned rounds. The neck, cuffs and hem are worked in the back loop only. 

  • Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed 
  • Working in rows and rounds
  • Decreasing and simple shaping
  • Working in the back loop only

The pattern uses chainless foundation rows, a great technique which is useful in many crochet projects.

The pattern is written using US Crochet Terms.

Woman in cosy sweater

Materials

Crochet Hook

You’ll need an 8mm hook, or size needed to match gauge.

I used my 8mm clover amour hook, but I also love the knit pro symphony hooks for larger sizes.

Yarn

The pattern uses 6(6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10) x100g balls of We are Knitters, The Petite Wool, 100% Peruvian Wool, Aquamarine, 100g = 140m / 155yds. See Measurement table for meterage by size.

This is equivalent to 770(840, 970, 1040, 1180, 1345, 1400) metres for sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) respectively.

Yarn Substitution Options

A similar chunky yarn which meets gauge can be used for this pattern. Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

When comparing chunky yarns, it can be helpful to compare the number of metres per 100g to get a similar yarn thickness. You want to look for something that is around 125-140m per 100g ball.

Other suggested yarns includes West Yorkshire Spinners ReTreatWool of the AndesLion Brand Hue and Me or Paintbox Wool Mix Chunky

You can use any chunky / bulky wool, acrylic or blend yarn for this sweater which meets gauge. I would not recommend a cotton / bamboo yarn for this project.

You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

Yarn needle & scissors, tape measure

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Cosy crochet sweater on sheep pelt

Measurements & Finished size

  • The sweater is designed to be fairly close fitting in the body and sleeves for the cosy feel, so go up a size if you’re looking for something more oversized
  • Size depends on meeting gauge, so please do take the time to make a gauge swatch before choosing your size
  • Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given in the table to help you in choosing a suitable size for you / the recipient of the garment
  • Additional measurements are given in the schematic at the end of the pattern
  • You can change the length of the sweater by changing the number of rounds worked before the shaping
  • The pattern is designed for adults and offered in 7 women’s sizes
  • Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in brackets; i.e. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) sts or Rows / Rounds
  • If you are working from a hard copy of the pattern, you may want to go through and highlight or circle the relevant colour for your chosen size

Approximate measurements are given below in cm for each size respectively:

  • Bust: 80(88, 98, 107, 116, 129, 138)
  • Length: 64(64, 64, 67, 69, 72, 72)
  • Armhole depth: 20(20, 23, 23, 25, 28, 28)

The item you see pictured is a size small, worn by me, a UK 8-10 / US 4-6 and just under 5ft 2in.

Gauge

9 sts and 8 rows of half double crochet (UK half treble) in 10cm / 4in using an 8mm hook or size needed to meet gauge.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here.

Crochet Sweater in Aqua on sheepskin rug

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

  • blo = back loop only
  • ch = chain
  • dec = decrease (used to indicate decrease row)
  • fsc = foundation single crochet (see special stitches)
  • hdc = half double crochet (UK half treble)
  • hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together (see special stitches)
  • rep = repeat
  • RS = Right Side
  • sc = single crochet (UK double)
  • sk = skip (UK miss)
  • sp = space 
  • ss = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • WS = Wrong Side
  • yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Foundation single crochet (fsc)

Ch 2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).  *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base stitch of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st.  To start the next st, insert the hook into the ‘v’ of the base stitch, yo and pull up a loop*.  Repeat from * for required number of sts.

You can find more details on foundation rows including a tutorial in the Crochet Resources Section of my website.

If you struggle with this technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches plus 1, then 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each chain across to achieve the required number of stitches. Note that starting with a chain may result in less stretch around the hem of the sweater, so you may wish to go up a hook size for the starting chain.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog)

Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops.

Cosy Up Crochet Sweater For Reading

The Cosy Up Crochet Sweater Pattern

Body

Round 1 (WS): 72(80, 88, 96, 104, 116, 124)fsc, join to the top of first st with a ss, being careful not to twist, turn. 72(80, 88, 96, 104, 116, 124) sts

Round 2-26: Ch1 (does not count as st here or throughout pattern), 1hdc in each st to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn

Do not fasten off, sew in starting tail of foundation chain

You will now switch to work in rows, crocheting the front and back sections separately to create the arm holes and add shaping.

Shoulder / Armhole Shaping

The shaping has been added to reduce bulk around the shoulders. If you have wide shoulders or prefer extra space here, you can work the front and back sections without the decreasing, maintaining the same stitch count throughout. If you have a fuller bust, you may wish to add the shaping on the back but not the front.

Front shaping

Continuing from last round;

Row 27 (WS): Ch1, 1hdc, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc in the next 30(34, 38, 42, 46, 52, 56) sts, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc turn. 34(38, 42, 46, 50, 56, 60) sts

Rows 28 – 29: Ch1, 1hdc in each st to end, turn 

Row 30 (dec): Ch1, 1hdc, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc in each st to 3 from end, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc, turn. 32(36, 40, 44, 48, 54, 58) sts

Rows 31 – 32: Ch1, 1hdc in each st to end, turn

Rows 33 – 38(41, 41, 41, 44, 47, 47): Rep Rows 30-32. 28(30, 34, 38, 40, 44, 48) sts

Rows 39(42, 42, 42, 45, 48, 48) – 41(41, 43, 43, 45, 47, 47): Ch1,1hdc in each st to end, turn

Neckline shaping

On the front section, you will create a small amount of neckline shaping by adding a short row of hdc on each of the top outer edges. These will be sewn to the back section to create a shoulder seam. If you want a wider neckline, you can work and join fewer hdc.

Neck shaping row: Continuing from previous row, ch1, 1hdc in the next 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13) sts 

Fasten off

Skip to 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13) sts from the end of the row, rejoin yarn, ch1 and work 1hdc into each of the remaining 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13) sts.

Fasten off

This will leave 16(16, 18,  20,  20, 20, 22) sts unworked in the centre for the head hole.

When fastening off, you may wish to leave a long tail to sew the shoulder seams together. 

Back shaping

Attach yarn to the back of the body in the st after the end of the first row of the front shaping. Starting in the same st as you joined your yarn 

Row 27 (WS): Ch1, 1hdc, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc in the next 30(34, 38, 42, 46, 52, 56) sts, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc turn. 34(38, 42, 46, 50, 56, 60) sts

Rows 28 – 29: Ch1, 1hdc in each st to end, turn 

Row 30 (dec): Ch1, 1hdc, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc in each st to 3 from end, 1hdc2tog, 1hdc, turn. 32(36, 40, 44, 48, 54, 58) sts

Rows 31 – 32: Ch1, 1hdc in each st to end, turn

Rows 33 – 38(41, 41, 41, 44, 47, 47): Rep Rows 30-32. 28(30, 34, 38, 40, 44, 48) sts

Rows 39(42, 42, 42, 45, 48, 48) – 42(42, 44, 44, 46, 48, 48): Ch1,1hdc in each st to end, turn

Shoulder seams

With WS facing, make shoulder seams by sewing together 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13) sts in from each outside edge of the body. You will be sewing the short rows of the front section to the last row of the back section, matching stitch to stitch.

My preferred joining method is the mattress stitch (click for tutorial) but you could slip stitch if you prefer.

This will leave 16(16, 18,  20,  20, 20, 22) sts unworked in the centre for the head hole.

I encourage you to put the sweater over your head at this stage to check it’s a good fit so far. It’s important that sweaters fit comfortably around the shoulders and neck so it’s worth taking the time to check here, remembering you have the roll neck to add.

If you prefer a wider neckline, work fewer stitches on the front neckline shaping and join fewer stitches at the shoulders.

Roll neck

With WS facing, attach your yarn to the edge of one of the shoulder seams.

Round 1: Ch1, work 1sc in each st and 2sc in each short row-end around the neckline, join to top of first st with ss, turn 36(36, 40, 44, 44, 44, 48) sts

Changing to work at right angles to the neckline;

Row 1 (RS): Ch26, 1hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch back towards neck, ss into next 2 sts on Round 1, turn (24 hdc, 2 ss)

Row 2 (WS): Sk 2 ss, 1hdc in blo of next 24 sts, turn. 24 hdc

Row 3: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 24 sts, ss into next 2 sts on Round 1, turn. 24 hdc, 2 ss

Rep Rows 2 and 3 around the neckline until the two sides of roll neck meet.  

To join, ss together, working through blo of each hdc and starting chain, matching st to st.

Fasten off

Sleeves

Repeat on both sides

Attach yarn at underarm with WS facing;

Round 1 (WS): Ch1, work 32(32, 36, 36, 40, 44, 44)sc around the arm hole, working 1 sc in each row-end, join to top of first st with ss, turn. 32(32, 36, 36, 40, 44, 44) sts

Round 2: Ch1, 1hdc in each st around, join to top of first st with ss, turn 

Round 3 (dec): Ch1, 1dc2tog, 1hdc in each st to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn. 31(31, 35, 35, 39, 43, 43) sts

Round 4 (dec): Rep Round 3. 30(30, 34, 34, 38,  42, 42) sts

Rounds 5 – 8: Ch1, 1hdc in each st to end, join to top of first st with a ss, turn 

Rounds 9 – 24: Rep Rounds 3-8. 22(22, 26, 26, 30, 34, 34) sts

Rounds 25 – 34: Ch1,1hdc in each st to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn

Round 35: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn

Do not fasten off, continue to cuff

Cuff

Turning to work at right angles to the end of the sleeve;

Row 1 (RS): Ch13, 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 11 ch, ss into next 3 sts on Round 35 of sleeve , turn (12 hdc, 3 ss)

Row 2 (WS): Sk 3ss, 1hdc in blo of next 11 sts, 1hdc through both loops of last st, turn. 12 hdc

Row 3: Ch1, 1hdc in blo of next 12 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Round 35, turn. 12 hdc, 3 ss

Thumb Hole

If you don’t wish to make the thumb holes, simply continue the Row 2 and 3 repeat until both sides of the cuff meet.

If you are working thumb holes, make sure you are working in the ‘right’ direction (relatively speaking) so that both thumb holes are pointing forward. This will stop the sleeves twisting when you use them. They should face the front of your sweater.

Row 4: Rep Row 2

Row 5: Ch1, 1hdc in blo of next 4 sts, ch3, sk 3 sts, 1hdc in blo of next 5 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Round 35, turn. 9 hdc, ch3, 3ss

Row 6: Sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of next 5 sts, 3hdc over ch3 sp, 1hdc in blo of next 3 sts, 1hdc through both loops of last st, turn, 12 sts

Row 7: Rep Row 3

Rep Rows 2 and 3 until both sides of the cuff meet.

Note that, depending on which size you are working, you may need to ss into 2 or 4 sts on Round 35 (the last round of the sleeve) for the last row 3 repeat.

Join the two sides of the cuff by working a ss through the blo of each hdc and corresponding starting chain, matching st to st.

Fasten off

Hem

With WS facing, join yarn at the start of the foundation chain where you sewed in the starting tail;

Round 1: Ch1, 1sc in each st around the bottom of the body, turn. 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 116, 124) sts

Now we will work in rows at right angles to the body;

Row 1: Ch12, 1hdc in 3rd ch from hook and next 9 ch, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss

Row 2: Sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of the next 9 sts, 1hdc through both loops of the last st, turn. 10 sts

Row 3: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 10 sts, ss into next 2 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 2 ss

Row 4: Sk 2 ss, 1hdc in blo of the next 9 sts, 1hdc through both loops of the last st, turn. 10 sts

Row 5: Ch2, 1hdc in blo of next 10 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss

Repeat Rows 2-5 until both sides of the hem meet

Note that, depending on what size you are working,  you may need to ss into a different number of sts the last time you work into Round 1. 

Join the two sides of the hem by working a ss through the blo of each hdc and corresponding starting chain matching st to st.

Fasten off, sew in ends and get cosy!

Woman wearing crochet sweater is scandalised by book

How to find me and share your finished makes

  • On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
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Happy Hooking 

Dx 

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