The ‘Parky’ Crochet Beanie Hat Pattern
‘Parky’ is a cozy, textured crochet beanie hat pattern. It’s made using sport-weight / heavy fingering weight / 4ply yarn and a 3.5mm crochet hook.
The Parky hat’s lightweight, close fitting and warm; perfect for those chilly mornings when it’s a bit parky out.
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Pattern Notes
General Notes
- Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses standard US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
- Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Turning chains do not count as stitches
- Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
- The first stitch of each round should be worked into the last stitch from the previous round (make sure you ignore the slip stitch used to join rounds)
- Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated
- Instructions written between [square brackets] should be repeated the specific number of times indicated
- Instructions in (round brackets) should be worked in the same stitch
Construction
- The hat is worked top-down from crown to brim in joined, turned rounds
- The ribbed brim is added directly into the last round of the hat and is worked in shorter rows at right angles to the hat body
Skills Used
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
- Working in turned rounds and rows
- Basic increases
- Working in the back and front loops – You can learn about front loops and back loops in my article explaining crochet stitch anatomy
How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:
I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.
Materials
Crochet Hook
I recommend a 3.5mm crochet hook for the crown and body of the hat and a 3mm hook for the brim (or sizes needed to meet gauge).
I used my clover amour hooks.
Yarn Requirements
You will require approximately 130(155, 165, 190, 200)m of sport-weight or heavy 4ply/fingering weight yarn, depending on your chosen size. See sizing table for details.
The Cream Sample used John Arbon Textiles, Seafarer Sport, 90% British Wool (Exmoor Blueface, Bluefaced Leicester, Devon Closewool and Romney), 10% Silk, 100g ball = 300m
The striped yellow and teal version used Drops Nord, 45% Aplaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool, 50g ball = 170m, in shades 09 (teal) and 114 (mustard). In this sample I alternated 4 rounds in each colour, working the last hat body round and brim in the same colour.
Yarn Substitution Options
This pattern should work well with most sport-weight or heavier 4ply / fingering weight yarns which meet gauge. A superfine double knit could also be an option if you can match gauge with it.
I recommend an animal fibre such as alpaca, wool or wool blend yarn. I think a yarn with some halo / fluff, rather than a totally smooth finish would give a more cozy look and feel to the finished hat, but swatch and see what YOU like.
You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.
Other Materials & Notions
Yarn needle, scissors and a tape measure
I encourage you to soak or steam block this project, if you are working with a natural fibre like I’ve used. Learn more about blocking and materials used here.
Measurements & Finished Size
Sizing Notes
- The pattern is written in 5 sizes; Toddler (Child, Teen/Small Adult, Adult and Large Adult)
- Approximate measurements of the finished hat in each size are listed below
- The hat is designed to be close fitting without being tight.
- The stitch pattern has a lot of stretch and the negative ease ranges from 10-13cm/4-5in. You may wish to size down for a tighter fit
- Learn more about hat sizing here)
- Instructions begin the same for each size. After Round 10 they split out into separate sizes for the completion of the crown. The hat body instructions are written together for all sizes
- The items pictured are made in the adult size
Finished Measurements
- Sizes are given in the order: Toddler(Child, Teen / Small Adult, Adult, Large Adult)
- To fit head: 47(50, 56, 58, 61)cm
- Finished circumference: 36(40, 43, 46, 49)cm
- Height from crown to base of brim: 20(21, 22, 23, 25)cm
- The brim measures around 2.5cm in depth – this is included in the height measurement
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
- FLO = front loop only
- hdc = half double crochet (UK half treble)
- MR = magic ring – see special stitches
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sk = skip (UK miss)
- ss = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Special Stitches
Magic Ring (MR)
You can find a photo and video tutorial on how to create a magic ring here. If you are not familiar with the magic ring for working in the round then you can ch4 and join to the first st with a ss to make a ring and work the sts into this ring to start the pattern.
Pattern Repeat
The body of the hat consists of double crochets (UK treble crochets) worked alternatively in the back loop then the front loop of consecutive stitches.
You will see each set of two stitches written like this: “1dc BLO, 1dc FLO”
For repeats, it will be given in square brackets, so: “[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] three times” will be equal to working the stitch pattern for a total of 6 stitches.
To increase, you will work 2 stitches into the same stitch, the first in the back loop, the second in the front loop of the same stitch. During the increase sections, two increases are placed next to each other to ensure the back/front loop pattern is maintained.
You will see this written as: “(1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts”.
If you’re used to working flat circles to start a hat, this may look a little different to other patterns as everything is doubled up.
Each round starts by working a dc in the BLO and finishes working in the FLO. I found this a helpful tip to keep me on track with the alternation.
Gauge
28 sts and 14 rows in 10cm of gently blocked double crochet worked alternating in the back and front loops of consecutive stitches, using a 3.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Note that during blocking I did not stretch the hat or pin it out. I simply soaked it with wool wash to allow the wool fibres to bloom and the stitches to fill out. The gauge before and after blocking was therefore relatively unchanged.
Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here
Purchase the PDF crochet pattern from Ravelry, Lovecrafts or Etsy
The Parky Hat Pattern
Hat Crown
Using a 3.5mm hook, make a MR;
Round 1(RS): Work 10dc into MR, ss to top of first st to join, turn. 10 sts
Round 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each st round to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 20 sts
Round 3: Ch2, *1dc BLO, 1dc FLO, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 30 sts
Round 4: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] twice, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 40 sts
Round 5 : Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] three times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 50 sts
Round 6: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] four times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 60 sts
Round 7: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] five times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 70 sts
Round 8: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] six times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 80 sts
Round 9: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] seven times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 90 sts
Round 10: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] eight times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 100 sts
Continue to follow the relevant instructions for your chosen size
For Toddler Size Only
Continue to hat body
For Child Size Only
Round 11: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] nine times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 110 sts
Continue to hat body
For Teen / Small Adult Size Only
Round 11: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] nine times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 110 sts
Round 12: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 10 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 120 sts
Continue to hat body
For Adult Size Only
Round 11: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] nine times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 110 sts
Round 12: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 10 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 120 sts
Round 13: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 11 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 130 sts
Continue to hat body,
For Large Adult Size Only
Round 11: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] nine times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 110 sts
Round 12: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 10 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 120 sts
Round 13: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 14 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 128 sts
Round 14: Ch2, *[1dc BLO, 1dc FLO] 15 times, (1dc BLO, 1dc FLO) in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 136 sts
Continue to hat body
Hat Body – All Sizes
Round 1: Ch2, *1dc BLO, 1dc FLO; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 100(110, 120, 130, 136) sts
Rounds 2-11(12, 11, 12, 11): Rep Row 1
You should finish on a RS round
Continue to hat brim
Hat Brim – All Sizes
I recommend changing to a 3mm crochet hook for the brim. This creates a tighter brim to help secure the hat. You may want to continue with a 3.55mm hook for smaller sizes depending on your tension. You can find a general tutorial demonstrating how to crochet a hat brim here.
Continuing from the final round of the hat body, change to a 3mm crochet hook, turn to work at right angles and switch to working in rows;
Row 1(RS): Ch7, 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 5 sts, ss into next 3 sts on final hat body round, turn. 6 hdc and 3 ss
Row 2 (WS): Without chaining, sk 3 ss, 1hdc BLO of next 5 sts, 1hdc through both loops of last st, turn. 6 hdc
Row 3: Ch1, 1hdc BLO of next 6 sts, ss into next 3 sts on final hat body round, turn. 6 hdc and 3 ss
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the circumference of the hat.
On the last row repeat, you may need to slip stitch into 2 or 4 sts (instead of 3) on the final round of the hat body to work into all stitches.
With RS facing, join the two sides of the brim by working a ss through the FLO of the last row of hdc and the BLO of your starting chain. If you need to turn your hat to stay on the RS, join through the FLO of the starting chain and BLO of the last row of sts you work.
You can find a quick video showing how I almost invisibly join back loop ribbing here.
Fasten off, gently block to allow stitches to settle and weave in ends to finish
How to find me and share your finished makes
- On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
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Happy Hooking
Dx
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