The Difference Between Rows and Rounds in Crochet

In this post, I will help you learn the difference between crochet stitches when worked in rows vs rounds (turned and unturned).

I often get asked why I turn, or don’t turn, at the ends of rounds. The answer is that there is a difference between how the stitches look and behave when using these two methods. Choosing to work in rows or rounds (turned, unturned or continuous) is a conscious design choice.

So if you’re crocheting a pattern which is worked in unturned rounds and you prefer to turn (or vice versa), it’s important that you know that the finished item will look different. This article will help you understand and visualise why that is.

To illustrate the differences in the techniques, I have created 2 swatches in each of 3 basic crochet stitches; single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet (US crochet terms). By comparing these side by side, you will not only see how the stitches differ visually, but also the variation in (my) gauge / tension when using the different approaches.

Lets start with some definitions and a summary of the different types of Rows and Rounds you can make in crochet.

Definitions of Rows and Rounds in Crochet

Turned Rounds

‘Join and turn‘

• Crochet to the end of a piece, join to the top of the first stitch (or chain, depending on the joining method you are using), turn, chain and work back the other way (using the same stitch pattern), joining at the end and so on
• Rounds can be flat (e.g. a circle or granny square) or a loop/ tube (e.g. a cowl or sock) depending on the project.
• The stitches alternate direction each round.
• The stitch pattern will look the same as when you work in rows.
• Wrong sides and Right sides are the same so the fabric is reversible.
• You will have a seam where the rounds join but if you are consistent in the way you join and begin each round, it will remain straight.
• Turned rounds may sometimes be called joined rows.

Unturned Rounds

‘Join but do not turn‘

• Crochet to the end of your piece, join to the top of the first stitch (or chain), then chain and start the next round without turning. The next round will be worked in the same direction as the previous round.
• Rounds can be flat or a loop/ tube depending on the project (as with turned rounds).
• The fabric will look different on each side so Right Sides and Wrong Sides are important to identify.
• Depending on how you join the rounds and begin the next round, you may find that your joining seam ‘wanders’ off at an angle rather than remaining straight (see my swatches for examples of this).

Note you can learn more about identifying which direction you’re working in this post about crochet fundamentals.

Continuous Rounds

‘Do not join or turn‘

• Crochet to the end of your piece without joining. Continue the next round by making the first stitch into the top of the first stitch from the previous round.
• Rounds are worked in the same direction with no join.
• There will be no seam
• The fabric will look different on each side so be aware of which is the Right and Wrong side for the purpose of the pattern you’re working.
• The overall stitch pattern will look the same as when you work unturned rounds, aside from the join.
• You may get a jag or stagger at the beginning or the end of the project or when changing colours (see the invisible colour change method here).

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The difference between stitches crocheted in rows vs unturned rounds

Below I show you the visible differences between working in Rows (or Turned Rounds) and Unturned Rounds (or Continuous Rounds).

For each stitch, I have made two swatches, one containing 15 stitches worked in rows, one containing 30 stitches working in unturned rounds. I worked 15 rows or rounds in each swatch.

I used a Stylecraft Special Aran, a 100% acrylic, aran weight yarn and a 5mm hook for all of the swatches.

I created a video to accompany this post where you can see a comparison of the swatches picutred below: Watch it here!

Single crochets – Rows vs Rounds

Below is a side by side comparison of single crochet swatches. The left hand swatch shows the stitch worked in rows, the right hand swatch shows unturned rounds. You can see there is quite a distinction in the stitch pattern.

The right hand swatch is slightly longer than the left, suggesting that my row gauge is tighter when working in rows vs unturned or continuous rounds.

For a more precise comparison, I measured the actual gauge measurements of the number of stitches and rows in 10cm of single crochet in each swatch.

• Gauge for single crochet in rows: 15 sts and 16.5 rows
• Gauge for single crochet in unturned rounds: 14.5 sts and 15 rows

I measured to fractions of a stitch / row in the gauge measurements throughout the post, because when you’re comparing small numbers, part of a stitch makes a difference!

Learn about making and measuring gauge swatches here.

Below is a more detailed view of how the swatches look using the different methods. Have a look and see the differences you notice.

Single Crochet in Rows:

Single Crochet in Unturned Rounds – ‘Right’ Side:

Single Crochet in Unturned Rounds Back – ‘Wrong’ Side:

Below you see the wrong side / private side of the single crochet swatch worked in unturned rounds. It looks subtly different to the ‘right’ side / public side (above) where you see those horizontal bars dotting between stitches.

Wrong and Right sides in crochet are used as relative terms, and do not equate to correct or incorrect.

Single Crochet Unturned Rounds – the Join

The image below shows how the join ‘wanders’ when working unturned rounds in single crochet.

Half double crochet – Rows vs Rounds

Here we have the comparison of half double crochet worked in rows vs unturned rounds”

Once again you can see that there is a difference in texture between the swatches. Again, the swatch made in unturned rounds (on the right) is longer than the one in rows (on the left) meaning that the row gauge is smaller (more relaxed) when working in unturned rounds.

Half Double Crochet in Unturned Rounds – ‘Wrong’ Side:

Pictured below is the ‘Wrong Side’ of the half double crochet swatch made in unturned rounds. You can see it’s really quite different to the ‘Right Side’.

Half Double Crochet in Unturned Rounds – the Join

Below you see how the join slants when crocheting half double crochet in unturned rounds.

Out of all the three stitches I swatched with, this was by far the most dramatic shift in the seam line.

Perhaps because half doubles are more slanty stitches? Like single crochet but a bit extra? Or maybe it’s just my crochet style which exacerbates it? I’m not quite sure why to be honest with you!

But if I were using hdc worked in the same direction in a project, I would probably choose to work in continual rounds and deal with the stagger at the beginning and end of the project with a single crochet and maybe a slip stitch to even it out.

Double Crochet – Rows vs Rounds

Double crochets swatched in rows vs unturned rounds are shown below side by side.

Interestingly the row gauge here looks marginally tighter for the unturned rounds than for the rows. This is the opposite trend for single and double crochets. Again, this could be the result of my specific crochet style and tension.

Here are the actual gauge measurements for the two (based on number of stitches and rows over a 10cm area):

• Gauge for double crochet in rows: 12 sts and 7.75 rows
• Gauge for double crochet unturned in rounds: 12 sts and 8 rows

I wouldn’t normally go into quarter rows, but these rows are fairly tall and there was a slight difference between the heights, even though it was less significant with the other stitches.

Now lets take a look at the stitches in more detail.

Double Crochet in Rows:

Double Crochet in Unturned Rounds – ‘Right’ Side:

Double Crochet in Unturned Rounds – ‘Wrong’ Side:

Below is the ‘wrong side’ of double crochet when crocheted in unturned rounds. You can see it has a much more ribbed texture than the ‘right’ side.

Double Crochet in Unturned Rounds – the Join:

This one surprised me a bit as the seam moved, but not very much. About 3 stitches worth over 15 rows. I think you could definitely get away with this method without the slant being too annoying, but it would depend what you’re making.