The Indian Summer Tank – Free Crochet Pattern
This quick and easy vest top can be enjoyed from the first days of spring right through to the warm autumn days and paired with a chunky cardi over the winter.
Made from worsted weight cotton it’s just right for that seasonal change, keeping you warm as the temperatures start to drop but staying cool when the sun is up!
The Indian Summer Tank Top was one of my very first crochet garments I designed back in 2017, and I am delighted that, now in 2024, I am back with an updated version of the pattern.
The new crochet tank top pattern is just as quick and easy as the original, but it now comes in 9 women’s sizes, with the additional clarity of a photo schematic.
You can read the whole pattern for free, in all sizes, (email address required to unlock pattern detail section) in the blog post below, or purchase the ad-free printable PDF version of the pattern from Etsy, Ravelry or Love Crafts Crochet.
It’s been a great experience to bring an additional 7 years of crochet garment design experience to this classic tank top pattern!
Note that the original version of the pattern offered the size small for free. I have left the post up and you can still find the first version of the tank top pattern here if you need to revisit it (i.e. if you’re in progress of crocheting it!)
Pattern originally published 27th Aug 2017. Update 25th Apr 2024.
This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here.
Above, you’ll see the original version of the pattern, and below my latest sample with brighter colours and stripes.
And with the housekeeping out of the way, shall we get started on the crochet pattern?
This Summer Tank Top is a classic crochet vest, designed to fit with negative ease. A quick and easy make, using the timeless moss stitch, it’s a garment that’s easy to wear on warm days and under layers on cooler days.
If you have any questions about the pattern, do feel free to drop them in the comments at the end of the post.
Crochet Tank Top Pattern Notes
General Pattern Notes
- Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
- Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Chain 2 turning chains count as one single crochet and chain one
- The chain 1 in the moss stitch pattern counts as one stitch
- Instructions written after an *asterisk should be repeated as indicated
- Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed
- Wrong sides and Right sides are nominal and the same until the two panels are joined
Notes on the Construction
- The top is worked in two panels from the bottom up
- Armhole shaping is added and the straps are worked on each side
- The front and back panels are seamed at the sides (leaving an unjoined section at the base) and shoulders
- A trim is added to the neckline, arm openings and hem to finish
- The pattern uses a stitch multiple of 4+1
Skills Used
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
- Working flat in rows with decreases
- Chainless foundation single crochet (fsc) to start each panel – fsc tutorial here
- A photo tutorial is included at the end of the PDF pattern for the neckline shaping and straps, for the free version below, step by step photos are included in the body of the pattern
- You can learn how to crochet the moss stitch here
This pattern is an ideal project for an experience beginner wanting to make their first garment or a more experienced crocheter wanting a quick and fun project.
It uses simple crochet stitches including; Single Crochet, Foundation Single Crochet, Chains and Slip Stitches
Materials
Crochet Hook
5.5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge. (You may find you need to go up to a 6mm hook if you crochet quite tightly.)
I used my clover amour hook for the original version and switched to my Tulip Etimo hook for the tutorial (these are very similar to the clover amour).
Yarn Requirements
You will need approximately 370(415, 480, 515, 540, 615, 695, 740, 800)m / 407(457, 528, 567, 594, 677, 765, 814, 880)yds of heavy worsted weight or aran weight cotton yarn.
The yarn used in the original beige and blue top is from the Lily Sugar n Cream Prints range (sometimes listed with the ombre range), 100% cotton, 55g (2oz) ball = 86m
Shade: Denim blue prints (shade 00192).
The stripy version pictured in the photo tutorial was made with Drops Paris, 100% non-mercerised cotton, 50g ball = 75m.
- Yarn A: Baby Pink (shade 57)
- Yarn B: Red (shade 12)
- Yarn C: Medium Pink (shade 33)
Yarn Substitution Options
A similar aran weight cotton (non-mercerised) yarn will achieve similar results. Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result. I think this pattern would also look great in a range of fibres which can match gauge with a suitable drape.
You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.
Other Materials & Notions
Yarn needle, scissors and a tape measure
You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins. Learn more about blocking here.
How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:
I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.
Measurements & Finished Size
- The top is designed to be fitted and is made with around 3-7cm of negative ease
- If you like a more relaxed fit, you may wish to go up a size – check your measurements
- Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given below to help you choose a suitable size for you or the recipient of the garment
- Additional measurements are given in the schematic at the end of the pattern
- The pattern is designed for adults and offered in 9 women’s sizes
- Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in brackets, i.e. XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) sts or Rows
- If you see a zero in the instruction for your size it means that instruction does not apply
- If you are working from a hard copy of the pattern, you may want to go through and highlight or circle the relevant instruction for your chosen size
- The item you see pictured (in both samples) is a size S worn by me, UK size 8-10 (US 4-6) on the top, 5ft 1in
The key measurements are detailed in the list below and in the schematic which follows:
- To fit bust (cm): 76(86, 96, 106, 117, 127, 137, 147, 158)
- Finished bust (cm): 70(81.5, 93, 104.5, 110, 121.5, 133, 144.5, 155.5)
- Length (cm): 52.5(52.5, 52.5, 52.5, 52.5, 52.5, 54, 54, 54)
- Armhole Depth (cm): 21.5(22.5, 24, 25, 26.5, 27.5, 29, 30, 31.5)
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – see special stitches
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
- sk = skip (UK miss)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)
You can find a tutorial for the foundation single crochet here.
Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st.
*To start the next st, insert the hook under the ‘v’ of the base chain you just created, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st; repeat from * for required number of sts.
If you struggle with this technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches plus 1, then work 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each chain across to achieve the required number of sts. Note that this will not have the same level of stretch as a chainless foundation row. You may want to consider going up a hook size or two for the chain if you choose this modification.
Pattern Repeat
The pattern is worked in the Moss Stitch (sometimes called linen or granite stitch). Whilst there are variations on how to work this stitch, instructions for how I work moss stitch in this pattern are given below.
Work an even number of stitches on your foundation row;
Set-up Row: Ch2 (counts as 1sc, ch1 throughout), sk first st, 1sc in next st, *ch1, sk one st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to end, turn.
Pattern Row: Ch2, sk first sc, 1sc in first ch1-sp, *ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to end, turn. (Note that the last stitch will be worked into the ch2 at the beginning of the previous row as this is equivalent to 1sc and ch1)
If you see ‘work in patt’ or ‘Rep Patt Row’ in the pattern, it means you repeat the pattern / pattern row as described above.
You can learn more about how to crochet moss stitch in rows in this tutorial.
Gauge
14 sts and 16 rows in 10cm of moss stitch using a 5.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge is measured after blocking.
Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project.
Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here
Purchase the ad-free PDF crochet pattern on Etsy, Ravelry, Love Crafts or enter your email and sign into grow to read the pattern for free.
The Indian Summer Tank Top Crochet Pattern
Note that to achieve the stripes you see pictured in the tutorial, I changed colour (in the order Yarn A, Yarn B, Yarn C) every 8 rows.
Back panel
Body
Row 1 (RS): Make 48(56, 64, 72, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108)fsc
Row 2: Ch2 (counts as 1sc and ch1 throughout), sk first st, 1sc in next st, *ch1, sk one st, 1sc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 49(57, 65, 73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts
Row 3 (Patt Row): Ch2, sk first sc, 1sc in first ch1-sp, *ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to end, turn. (Note that the last sc will be worked into the ch2 at the beginning of the previous row as this is equivalent to 1sc and ch1).
Rows 4-50(48, 46, 44, 42, 40, 40, 38, 36): Rep Patt Row. 49(57, 65, 73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts
If you want to change the length of your top, you can change the number of Patt Row repeats here to suit your preference.
Underarm Shaping
Row 1: Ch2, sk the first sc, the first ch1-sp and the next sc, 1sc in the 2nd ch1-sp. *ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to the ch1-sp second from end, ss in next ch1-sp (which will be the ch2 used to start the previous row, this ss does not count as a st), turn. 45(53, 61, 69, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105) sts – 4 sts decreased
Rows 2-4(4, 4, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2): Work in patt for 3(3, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) row(s)
Rows 5(5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3)-8(8, 8, 8, 10, 14, 16, 20, 22): Repeat the last 4(4, 4, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) rows 1(1, 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10) time(s). 41(49, 57, 57, 57, 57, 61, 61, 65) sts
Rows 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 15, 17, 21, 23)-14(14, 14, 14, 16, 20, 22, 24, 26): Work in patt for a further 6(6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4) rows
Continue to first strap without fastening off
Straps
The Straps are worked in patt, starting from the outside edge of the piece and working inwards. You will work the first strap without fastening off. Then fasten off and rejoin your yarn near the centre of the panel and work the second strap, which will be a mirror image of the first.
You will make decreases in the centre of the panel to create the neck shaping. The decreases are made in the same way they were for the underarm shaping, but in the centre, not the outer edges.
First Strap
Continuing from underarm shaping
Row 1 (RS): Ch2, sk first sc, 1sc in first ch1-sp, [ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp] 8(10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14) times, ss into next sc (does not count as st), turn, leaving remaining stitches unworked. 19(23, 27, 27, 27, 27, 29, 29, 31) sts
Row 2: Work in patt
Row 3: Ch2, sk first sc, 1sc in first ch1-sp, *ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to the ch1-sp second from end, ss in next sc (ss does not count as a st), turn 17(21, 25, 25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29) sts – 2 sts decreased
Row 4: Work in patt
In the image below, you can see how the decrease has been made at the end of the third row by working the last sc into the ch1-sp second from end and slip stitching into the last sc (before the ch2-sp), decreasing by two stitches.
Rows 5-12(16, 20, 20, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20): Rep Rows 3 and 4 4(6, 8, 8, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) times. 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13) sts
Rows 13(17, 21, 21, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21)- 20(22, 24, 26, 26, 24, 24, 24, 24): Work in patt for 8(6, 4, 6, 8, 6, 4, 4, 4) rows. 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13) sts
Fasten off, continue to second strap
If you wish to change the length of your straps, you can change the number of rows you work before fastening off (after the shaping is complete).
Second Strap
The second side is worked in much the same way as the first, but will be its mirror image. As such, you will make the decrease at the beginning of the row rather than the end.
The images below show a close up and a zoomed out look at this so you can see where to join your yarn, with a written instruction below the image.
Following on from the end of Row 1 of the first strap, skip the ch1-sp after the sc in which you made a ss at the end of Row 1, sk the next sc and ch1-sp and rejoin your yarn in the next sc;
Row 1 (RS): Starting in the next ch1-sp, work in patt to end. 19(23, 27, 27, 27, 27, 29, 29, 31) (check your stitch count here, making sure to include the ch2 as 2 sts in the st count).
Row 2: Work in patt
Row 3: Ch2, sk the first sc, the first ch1-sp and the next sc, 1sc in the 2nd ch1-sp, *ch1, sk next sc, 1sc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to end, turn 17(21, 25, 25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29) sts – 2 sts decreased
In the picture below, you can see that the decrease has been made by missing the first sc, the ch1-sp and the next sc. In the image on the left, the hook points to the ch1-sp where the first sc should be placed (the second ch1-sp). You then work in patt to the end, giving you a decrease of 2 stitches, and work in patt for the following row.
Row 4: Work in patt
Rows 5-12(16, 20, 20, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20): Rep Rows 3 and 4 4(6, 8, 8, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) times. 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13) sts
Rows 13(17, 21, 21, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21)- 20(22, 24, 26, 26, 24, 24, 24, 24): Work in patt for 8(6, 4, 6, 8, 6, 4, 4, 4) rows. 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13) sts
Fasten off, block to size and shape if required
If you have changed the length of the first side, repeat the same row count on the second side to ensure you have even length straps.
Front Panel
Body
Work as Back Panel to underarm shaping. 49(57, 65, 73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts
Underarm Shaping
The underarm shaping is worked the same as for the back panel but you will work fewer rows in patt after the decreasing has finished (as the neckline will be 4 rows lower and the straps 4 rows longer)
Rows 1-8(8,8, 8, 10, 14, 16, 20, 22): Work as back underarm shaping. 41(49, 57, 57, 57, 57, 61, 61, 65) sts
Rows 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 15, 17, 0, 0)-10(10, 10, 10, 12, 16, 18, 0, 0): Work in patt for a further 2(2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 0, 0) rows
You should now have 10(10, 10, 10, 12, 16, 18, 20, 22) rows in the underarm shaping section.
Straps
The straps on the front will be worked the same as for the back panel, however, after the decreasing is complete, you will work 4 additional rows in patt to create longer straps.
For each side;
Rows 1-12(16, 20, 20, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20): Work as back.
Rows 13(17, 21, 21, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21)- 24(26, 28, 30, 30, 28, 28, 28, 28): Work in patt for a further 12(10, 8, 10, 12, 10, 8, 8, 8) rows. 9(9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13) sts
Fasten off, block to size and shape if required
In total, each body panel should have 84(84, 84, 84, 84, 84, 86, 86, 86) rows.
Joining
Block panels to shape and size. Lay the front panel onto the back with WS facing (RS together) and pin the two pieces together up the sides and at the shoulders ready to sew together. I like to use the mattress stitch for sewing seams.
Side Seams
Starting about 5-8cm / 2-3in from the bottom (I started at Row 12), sew together the two sides up to the beginning of the underarm shaping. This will leave the split at the base of the top.
Shoulder Seams
Sew together the top of the straps, matching stitch to stitch, to create the shoulder seams.
You may wish to try on the top at this stage (before sewing in any ends) to check you are happy with the fit. The slits at the sides allows the top to sit comfortably on the hips so it does not rise up when worn.
Finishing
Armholes
Repeat on each side
Starting on the WS, join your yarn at the top of the side seam (at the underarm);
Round 1 (WS): Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), evenly work sc into the row-ends around the armholes, ss to top of first st, turn (I worked 1 sc into each row-end)
Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 3: Rep Round 2
Fasten off
You can work more or fewer rounds here, if you want to change the width of the shoulders, but I would recommend a minimum of 2 rounds.
Neckline
Starting on the WS, join your yarn to the inside edge of one of the shoulder seams
Round 1 (WS): Ch1, evenly work sc into the row-ends around the neckline, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 3: Rep Round 2
Fasten off
Again you can work more or fewer rounds here, but I recommend a minimum of 1 round to smooth out the decreases over the neck shaping.
Bottom Hem
Starting on the WS, join your yarn to the row-end just below the base of one of the side seams;
Round 1 (WS): Ch1, work a round of sc around the base, moving down the row-ends of the side of the body panel (1sc in each row-end), 3sc in the first fsc on the base (to create a square corner), 1sc in the back of each fsc, 3sc in the last fsc, work sc back up the row-ends on the other side, skip the base of the side seam and repeat the process on the other side, ss to top of first st to join.
Fasten off, block if required, weave in all ends
How to find me and share your finished makes
- On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
- If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe” and share them there?
- Sign up to the WiP Tip for weekly crochet chat, offers and exclusives straight to your inbox – click here to sign up.
Happy Hooking
Happy Hooking
Dx
Happy Hooking
Dx
Copyright Dora Does Limited, Registered in England, Company Number 13992263. This pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared or reproduced in written, photo, video or any other form without prior written consent. All rights reserved. Terms of service.
In love with this tank top!!! Wish me luck, making it. Thank you!
Thank you so much! I hope you got on with it okay!!! I’d love to see the result!