Beginner Bestie: A Free easy crochet cowl pattern

The ‘beginner bestie’ crochet cowl is a beginner friendly pattern which is great for newer crocheters and those with more experience who would like a quick and easy crochet project.

You can find the free crochet pattern below, which includes a photo tutorial as well as guidance on adjusting the size to suit your preferences and links to some associated tutorials.

Recently I’ve been digging into crochet cowl construction and I really wanted to go back to basics with this one.

Once you’ve been crocheting for a while it’s easy to forget how joyful and pretty the simple beginner’s crochet stitches can be.

So the ‘Beginner Bestie’ cowl is designed to do what it says on the tin; offer an easy crochet cowl pattern that you can follow as a beginner and, once your skills grow, can modify to your own preference.

Without further ado, let’s get into the pattern.

Pattern Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
• Numbers at the end of a round indicate the number of stitches in that round 
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The crochet pattern is worked in turned rounds
• You will join each round with a slip stitch
• When starting a round, ensure the first stitch of each round is crocheted into the top of the last stitch from the previous round and not the slip stitch used to join it – there is an infographic in the photo tutorial which demonstrates this in detail
• If you struggle with consistent stitch count, place a stitch marker (or scrap of contrasting yarn) in the first stitch of each round so you know where to place your slip stitch at the end of the round
• Right and wrong sides are nominal – the pattern looks a little different on each side and you can wear your preferred side on display
• Additional notes on size and construction adjustments are given at the end of the pattern

Skills Used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• I recommend beginners review my post ’10 things beginner crocheters should know’ before starting the pattern
• The pattern uses simple stitches including single crochets, double crochets and slip stitches
• If you struggle working into chains, this tutorial may help you.

Materials

Crochet Hook Size

You will need a 5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge / tension.

I used my clover amour hook.

Yarn

The pattern calls for 100g or 200m/220yds of Aran or Worsted Weight Yarn. (learn about yarn weights here)

The item pictured used 1x100g hank of Cascade 220 Aran, shade Tutu (9477), 100% Wool, 100g = 200m/220yds.

Yarn Substitution Options: 

Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

• Yarn needle, scissors and a tape measure
• Optional stitch marker to mark the start of each round (you can use a scrap of contrasting yarn or even a bobby pin if you don’t have any stitch markers)
• You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins.

You can Learn more about blocking crochet projects here.

Measurements & Finished Size

The finished item is designed for an adult woman and measures approximately 65cm/26in in circumference and 20cm/8in deep.

This cowl is not suitable for use by children or infants.

Below you will see a schematic showing the dimensions and shape of the cowl.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• ss = slip stitch
• WS = wrong side

Gauge

If the concept of gauge is new to you, I encourage you to read this post which explains gauge / tension in simple terms.

14 sts and 13 rows in 10cm of alternating rows of single crochet and double crochet using a 5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. 

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here.

You can purchase a print optimised ad-free PDF version of this pattern from Etsy or Ravelry.

The Pattern

Below you will find the simple written pattern first, followed by the picture tutorial which is broken down into a little more detail with some additional notes.

Written pattern

Set-up Round: Ch95, being careful not to twist your chain, ss to the first ch to make a loop, turn. 95 ch

Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), 1sc in each ch around, ss to top of first sc to join, turn. 95 sc

Round 2: Ch2 (does not count as a stitch throughout),1dc in each st to end, ss to top of first dc to join, turn. 95 dc

Round 3: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first sc to join, turn. 95 sc

Rounds 4-25: Rep Rounds 2 and 3, finishing on a Round 3 repeat (a single crochet round).

Instead of working a slip stitch at the end of the final round, fasten off after working the last sc, leaving a 15-20cm/6-8in tail and pull the yarn tail through the stitch.

Finishing (invisible join)

You can learn more about the invisible join technique, including a tutorial in this article.

• With the RS facing you – you can choose which side you prefer as the ‘right’ side – I have used the single crochet rounds as the RS rounds in my version
• Thread the tail onto a yarn needle and feed the needle from back to front under the first stitch of the round
• Then thread the needle back through the centre of the ‘v’ on the top of the last stitch of the same round. 
• Pull your yarn tight enough so that your tension creates a faux stitch which will look like the rest of the stitches in the round.
• Sew in the remainder of the tail underneath the stitches on the WS of your work

Note that if you prefer not to use the invisible join method as offered, you can complete the last round with a slip stitch (as previous rounds), fasten off and sew in the ends.

Detailed written pattern with photo guide

Set-up Round: Ch95, being careful not to twist your chain, ss to the first ch to make a loop, turn. 95 ch

Round 1 (RS): 

Ch1 (does not count as a stitch throughout), ensuring you don’t work into the ss used to join the previous round, 1sc in each ch around.

The images below show Round 1 after the final sc, you can see that I have added a stitch marker into the first stitch so it is easy to see where to join the round.

Round 1 cont’d… ss to top of first sc to join (as seen in the images below), turn. 95 sc

To start the next round (and all subsequent rounds), it’s important you miss the slip stitch used to join the previous round. The images below show which part is the chain, the slip stitch and the top of the last stitch of the previous round. You will use this same technique with each round you work.  

Round 2: Ch2 (does not count as a stitch throughout),1dc in each st to end

Place a marker into the top of the first stitch of the round to help you stay on track if useful – as seen in the image below which shows the start of round 2.

The image below shows the end of round 2 before the slip stitch. You can see that the last stitch is placed into the same stitch in which the starting chain was made.

Check your stitch count is constant at the end of each round before you slip stitch.

Round 2 cont’d… ss to top of first dc to join, turn. 95 dc

Round 3: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first sc to join, turn. 95 sc

The image below shows the last stitch of Round 3 before the slip stitch is made once more so you can see a close ups of the stitch placement. The marker seen was placed in the first stitch of the round.

Rounds 4-25: Rep Rounds 2 and 3, finishing on a Round 3 repeat (a single crochet round).

Check your measurements as you crochet to ensure you are on gauge and happy with your size progression.

Round 25 cont’d… finish on a single crochet round and do not slip stitch to join at the end of the final round. Ensure you are happy with the size before fastening off.

Instead of working a slip stitch at the end of the final round, fasten off after working the last sc of the round, leaving a 15-20cm/6-8in tail, and pull the yarn tail through the stitch (as shown above).

Finishing (invisible join)

Note that if you prefer not to use the invisible join method as offered, you can complete the last round with a slip stitch (as previous rounds), fasten off and sew in the ends.

You can learn more about the invisible join technique, including a tutorial in this article.

With the RS facing you – you can choose which side you prefer as the ‘right’ side – I have used the single crochet rounds as the RS rounds in my version.

Thread the tail onto a yarn needle and feed the needle from back to front under the first stitch of the round. Then thread the needle back through the centre of the ‘v’ on the top of the last stitch of the same round. 

Pull your yarn tight enough so that your tension creates a faux stitch which will look like the rest of the stitches in the round. Sew in the remainder of the tail underneath the stitches on the WS of your work.

Below you can see what a neat finish this produces.

Possible adjustments to the pattern

Size adjustments

I have given the specific number of chains to start with in the pattern based on the yarn and tension I am working with. If you’re using a different yarn weight, or want a different size circumference, you may want to alter the number of starting chains as appropriate. 

• To increase the circumference, add more chains to the set-up round.
• To increase or decrease the depth, work more or fewer round repeats.

Your chain should be as long as you want the circumference of the cowl to be.

Ensure that the circumference of your cowl allows it to fit comfortably (never too tight), being aware that crocheting more rounds will start to reduce the circumference in practical terms.

Because chains are often tighter (especially when you are a beginner), you may want to crochet the chain with a larger hook to counterbalance this. Take into account that chain rounds will have less stretch than the rest of the fabric, so I would er on the larger length if in doubt.

Adjusting the construction method

If you would prefer to work the cowl flat rather than in turned rounds, you can work in rows by leaving out the slip stitch join at the end of each round and just turn. 

When finished, fasten off, leaving a long tail, approximately the same length of the cowl.

Thread the end of the tail onto a yarn needle and sew together the short ends (the row ends) of the fabric with the WS facing you to create a seam, then turn your cowl the right side out. 

I like to use the mattress stitch for sewing seams in crochet.

Block your work if desired and enjoy your beginner bestie cowl!

How to share your finished makes

• On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
• If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe” and share them there?
• Sign up to the WiP Tip for weekly crochet chat, offers and exclusives straight to your inbox – click here to sign up

Happy Hooking 

Dx

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