In this post we are going to look at a two ways you can crochet in the round and learn great joining technique, often referred to as the invisible join.

The invisible join is great for adding that extra seamless, professional finish to your crochet projects. It’s especially useful if you are using different colours.

But first let’s back up a bit and talk more generally about crocheting in the round.

There are two variations on crocheting in rounds. They are similar but have a subtle difference, which I discuss below. The invisible join can be used with both.

Crocheting in rounds joined with a slip stitch

These kind of rounds do not have to be round. For example, a granny square is worked in rounds, even though it’s square. Clear as mud huh!

Here, the term round is used to differentiate from rows. The main difference is that you end the round back where you started, join to the first stitch and then start your next round.

You may turn at the end of each round, or crochet all your rounds in the same direction.

When working rounds which are joined with a slip stitch, you need to be sure that you don’t accidentally work into the slip stitch, mistaking it for a pattern stitch, when you work subsequent rounds.

Crocheting in continual rounds

This is where you work the first stitch of a new round directly into the top of the first stitch of the previous round, without joining. It is sometimes referred to as working in a spiral.

Most commonly this is used when working a pattern in single crochet (UK double crochet) because the stitch is short enough not to create a disjointed looking join.

You will see continual rounds used most commonly in projects such as amigurumi for this reason.

That said, continual rounds can be used with all kinds of stitches and patterns to great effect. Once you have the first round done, they can be worked smoothly. They look fabulous in two colour spirals!

The catch with continual rounds is working out how to join them in a seamless way. Especially if you are introducing colour changes and want them to switch smoothly.

This is where the invisible join comes in extra handy!

The difference matters

This distinction of the two kinds of rounds may sound obvious when written in black and white, but I think it’s worth clarifying.

I know it may seem pedantic but I think it’s important to clearly establish the basics. That’s why I started my Crochet Fundamentals blog series. People come to crochet in many different ways, but rarely in a straight line!

I have seen many crochet patterns refer to rows when working in rounds (I’ve probably made that mistake too).

I’ve also seen patterns where it’s not clear whether you join a round or keep working. I sincerely hope I’ve never made that mistake because it’s a proper face palm mess up!

Okay, back to the point!

A while back (erm, like autumn 2019…) I created a video for the invisible join whilst I was making the tutorial for the bobble pop blanket. Like so many posts in my drafts, I hadn’t got round to editing and publishing it.

Then this week, I was working on a new amigurumi patten and used the invisible join technique again. This is what got me thinking about the different types of rounds and I realised I couldn’t hold that video back any longer!

So I got my editing cap on and created a photo tutorial to go with it which you can see below.

Why is the invisible join so awesome?

The main benefit to using the invisible join is relevant regardless of the types of rounds your using. When used on the last round of your project, or before a colour change, it adds a seamless, neat and tidy look to your finished work. (Even better if you block it too!)

If you’re working rounds which are normally joined with a slip stitch, using the invisible join will ensure you don’t get any extra stitches. Neither will you see those little bumps where you’ve pulled the slip stitch in too tight to try and hide it. (We’ve all done it!)

Invisible joins also allow you to change colours in a much more subtle way when working in continuous rounds. It creates a smooth colour change instead of what would otherwise look like a blunt change in the middle of a round.

For clarity, I’m not suggesting you use the invisible join every round. No one has time for that!! But used in the two contexts discussed; final rounds and before colour changes, it is a small technique that makes a huge difference!

Are you sold?

Let’s show you how to do it then!

Invisible join: video tutorial

This video shows you how the technique to invisibly join your crochet rounds, without extra stitches or fuss.

The video demonstrates the invisible join with joined rounds (using slip stitches) from the tutorial for the free bobble pop crochet blanket. However, as discussed, the same principal applies for continuous rounds.

Note that this video is being demonstrated left handed but it should be pretty simple to translate for the right handed majority!

The invisible join: Written tutorial

Below you can read the written instructions for the invisible join. I included a separate written tutorial for those who like their instructions concise.

For a more visual guide, use the written and photo tutorial which follows.

Step 1:

Work to the end of your round.

Step 2:

Fasten off and pull the yarn through the stitch and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

Step 3:

Skip the next stitch of a continuous round or the first stitch of the next round if you’re working with joined rounds. Insert your needle from back (wrong or private side) to front (right or public side) and pull it through (but not too tight)

If your rounds start with a chain then instead of skipping the stitch you will skip the chain that you were due to slip stitch into the top of.

Step 4:

Thread your yarn through the back loop of the final stitch of the round. This will be the stitch you pulled your yarn through when fastening off.

Pull the yarn taught but not too tight. You should see that it has created a faux stitch on top of the stitch (or chain) that you skipped. This is the invisible part!

Step 5:

Working into the wrong side of your work, weave in the ends securely, making sure not to pull your yarn too tight so that the join stays looking like a stitch.

How to use the invisible join in crochet: Photo tutorial

For balance, the photo tutorial uses continual rounds in the example.

Step 1:

Work to the end of your round.

Step 2:

Fasten off and pull the yarn through the stitch and thread it onto a tapestry needle.

Step 3:

Skip the next stitch of a continuous round or the first stitch of the next round if you’re working with joined rounds.

In the image below I have used a scrap of contrasting yarn to highlight the stitch you will skip. We will effectively be creating a ‘faux’ stitch on top of this skipped one.

Insert your needle from back (wrong or private side) to front (right or public side) and pull it through (but not too tight)

If your rounds start with a chain then instead of skipping the stitch you will skip the chain that you were due to slip stitch into the top of.

Step 4:

Thread your yarn through the back loop of the final stitch of the round. This will be the stitch you pulled your yarn through when fastening off.

Pull the yarn taught but not too tight. You should see that it has created a fake stitch on top of the stitch (or chain) that you skipped. This is the invisible part!

Clever huh!?!

Step 5:

Working into the wrong side of your work, weave in the ends securely, making sure not to pull your yarn too tight so that the join stays looking like a stitch.

Can you even see where the join is on the picture below?

Changing colours after an invisible join.

If you’re changing colours after an invisible join, you will just re-join your yarn to the joined stitch and start your next round! Sometimes I hop forward or back a stitch depending on the project and whether it will lead to a smoother change.

If you want to learn more about neatly changing colours in the round, then you can check out this post which is a natural follow on from the invisible join. But, in the meantime, here’s a quick peek of how subtle the colour change is.

It’s not perfect because when you work onto the second round of the new colour, you’re kind of starting over with the circular rounds, so there will be a little blip. But it’s 99% smoother than just changing colours mid way through a round, which is the alternative.

So there we have it. I hope you’ll give it a go and find it a useful addition to your crochet tricks tool kit!

Happy hooking

Dx

More tips and tricks