The Falling Pines Beanie Hat: Free Crochet Pattern

Following the recent update of the Falling Pines crochet poncho pattern, I am excited to introduce you to the Falling Pines crochet tam style beanie hat which uses the same cabled motif.

The falling pines crochet hat pattern is a slouchy, adult sized beanie hat which is a great way to practice the cabled motif on a smaller project, AND create a cozy winter accessory set that will have you looking like you’re ready for ski season.

Purchase the PDF version of this pattern from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts, or read on for the free / add supported version.

This crochet pattern is a great way to introduce yourself to intricate post stitch motifs, without the stress of taking on a larger project. You could consider it a practice piece either for the Falling Pines Poncho or the Southern Pines sweater patterns.

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here. 

Click here for the Falling Pines Crochet Poncho Pattern

The cabled crochet hat is made top down in joined rounds. The body of the hat is oversized to create the slouchy shape. Decreases are then made towards the brim so that you can get a comfy fit around your head. Whilst the hat is offered in one adult size, it’s possible to make adjustments at this point for a custom fit.

This post on crochet hat sizing will help you understand how you can adjust sizes based on your gauge.

One thing I love about this hat – maybe more than the cable motif – is that it is slouchy enough that if, like me, you have a lot of hair, you can fit it all inside the hat without much bother. Sometimes it’s the simple things right?

And with that, let’s get to the pattern.

Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
• Numbers at the end of a round indicate the number of stitches in that round and are only given where there is a change
• Starting chains do not count as stitches
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The first stitch of each round should be worked into the top of the first stitch from the previous round – this is the same stitch that you slip stitch into to join the previous round
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed
• Instructions in (round brackets) should be worked in the same stitch
• Instructions written after an *asterisk should be repeated as indicated

Construction

• The hat is worked top-down in unturned, joined rounds
• The oversized, slouchy body of the hat includes 5 ‘branches’ of the falling pines motif
• A decrease is made towards the base of the hat
• You can make more or fewer decreases to adjust the final circumference of the hat for a custom fit
• A pom pom is added to finish (optional)

Materials

Crochet Hook

 3.5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge. I used my clover amour hook.

Note that with this pattern I used a smaller hook than recommended for the yarn to really make the cables pop and create a dense fabric to keep your head warm.

Yarn Requirements

You will need approximately 220m/242yds double knit / dk weight yarn.

The item pictured used 2 balls of Swish DK from We Crochet, 100% Superwash Merino Wool, 50g ball = 112m / 123 yds in Shade ‘Arctic.’

Other Materials & Notions

• Pom pom (optional) 
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins or a garment steamer.

Learn more about blocking here.

Measurements & Finished Size

The hat pattern is written in one adult size – approximate finished measurements are;

• Hat Height: 25cm / 12in
• Circumference at Brim: 50/cm / 20in
• Circumference at widest point of hat body: 54cm / 22in

Note that you can reduce the size of the hat at the brim by adding decreases around the final round (guidance included in the pattern). Learn more about hat sizing here.

How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:

I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (UK treble 2 together) – see special stitches
• fptr = front post treble crochet (UK Double treble raised front) – see special stitches
• MR = magic ring – see special stitches
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Magic Ring (MR)

You can find a photo and video tutorial on how to create a magic ring here.  If you are not familiar with the magic ring for working in the round then you can ch4 and join to the first st with a ss and work the sts into this ring to start the pattern.

Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr)

This is worked just like a normal treble but instead of inserting the hook into the top of the stitch on the previous row, you insert it around the ‘post’ of the stitch so that the hook sits behind the post (the post is in front – which is where it gets it’s name).  The post will pull towards you as you work to create the cable effect:

Yo twice, then, working from the front of the fabric, insert the hook behind the post of the indicated stitch (from front to back to front, so the post is in front of the hook), yo pull up a loop, [yo, pull through two loops] three times to complete the stitch. 

You can find a tutorial for post stitches here.

Double Crochet 2 Together (dc2tog)

Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook) yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete the stitch.

Gauge

20 sts and 12 rows in 10cm of double crochet worked in unturned rounds using a 3.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here.

You can purchase the ad-free, print friendly PDF version of this pattern from Etsy, Ravelry or Love Crafts.

Round 8: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr in next 3 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 80 sts

Round 9: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr in next 3 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 90 sts

Round 10:  Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr in next 4 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 3 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 100 sts

Round 11: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 110 sts

Round 12: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr in next 3 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 120 sts

You will now stop increasing and introduce decreases to counter the increase in the centre of each branch. Your stitch count will remain at 120 sts until you begin to decrease towards the brim.

Round 13: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr in next 3 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 5 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join.

Round 14: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr in next 4 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 3 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 4 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join.

Round 15: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join.

Round 16: Ch2, starting in the first st, [dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, 1dc, 1fptr in next 3 sts, (2dc, 1fptr) in next dc, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join.

Rounds 17-24: Rep Rounds 13-16

Round 25: Rep Round 13

You will now begin to decrease towards the brim of the hat;

Round 26: Ch2, starting in the first st, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, [1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts] twice, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 4 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st to join.110 sts

Round 27: Ch2, starting in the first st, [1dc, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr in next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 3 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join.100 sts

Round 28: Ch2, starting in the first st, [dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1fptr, dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts] five times, ss to top of first st to join. 80 sts

Round 29: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in each st around, ss to top of first st to join^

Fasten off and weave in ends

^You may wish to weave in the end using the invisible join method.

Note that if you would like a tighter fit, you can add decreases into round 29. You may wish to add an additional round of single crochet after the decrease round if you do this.

You can learn how to evenly space decreases here.

Finishing

Block as desired. I soak blocked my hat to increase the slouch but, depending on your fibre, steam blocking could work too.

Add a pom pom if desired.