Yes you read that right – I’m giving this crochet sweater pattern away free, it’s all in the page below from women’s sizes XS to 3X.

The ‘So What?’ Sweater is the latest pattern of the month for the My Crochet Wardrobe challenge (to release one new garment pattern on the first of every month). At the start of the year, I set out to encourage people to make their own crochet wardrobe and this is my festive thank you for everyone who has gotten involved in the facebook group as well as another way to encourage all of you to try something new if you’ve never crocheted a sweater! (Do it – I know you can!!!)

There’s a story behind the name of this sweater as well as my decision to release a free version of it below. Rather than share it all here, you can read all about it on the blog. It’s been a crazy month and I really wanted to share this with you (warning, I may have written a kind of poem!).

Essentially, this pattern is called ‘So What?’ because it’s all about having a go and embracing perfect imperfection. If this is your first ever garment I’d love you to throw away the idea that anything has to be perfect. So what if every stitch is not exactly in the right place? You’re basically making a sweater from string… That’s a big what!!!

Whilst you can get the full pattern below, it is also available to purchase as an add-free PDF from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy. The full download has a couple of extras including a schematic with all measurements, an option to add a roll neck and some guidance on how to alter sections of the sweater so that you can customise the fit. Oh and the sizes are also colour coded for ease (which is my standard in my sized patterns), I would have included those here too but for some reason the colours won’t transfer across.

Download the PDF from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here

So from that let’s get to the pattern!

Pattern Notes

• Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers in brackets at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Turning chains to not count as stitches
• Each row / round should be started in the top of the last stitch from the previous row / round
• Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 

Construction

• This is a simple ‘modified drop’ sweater design
• The body is worked top down in two flat panels which are seamed at the sides and shoulders
• The sleeves are worked in rounds directly from the armholes of the body

Skills Needed

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches is assumed
• Working in rows and rounds using simple decreases
• Front post treble crochet stitches (UK Raised Treble Front)
• Skipping rows and working around posts of stitches two rows below

Materials

Hook: 8mm and 6mm crochet hook

Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, 100g balls (136m / 145yds)

7(8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) balls in Sailor Blue

Yarn meterage (m) by size: XS: 950m, S: 1050m, M: 1100m, L: 1200m, 1X: 1280m, 2X: 1350m, 3X: 1450m

Substitution Options: Any chunky weight acrylic or wool yarn which meets gauge should work well with this pattern.

Other: Yarn needle & scissors

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (UK treble crochet 2 together)
• dec = decrease (denotes decrease row / round)
• fptr = front post treble crochet (UK Raised double treble front)
• rep = repeat
• rs = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (UK double crochet 2 together)
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• ws = wrong side

Gauge

10 sts and 9 rows in 10cm of pattern repeat (see below) using an 8mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Stitch Pattern

For your gauge swatch, work alternating rows of dc and sc using an 8mm hook keeping a relaxed tension.

When working the pattern, you will always work the fptr on the dc (rs) rows, working around the post of the dc or fptr 2 rows below (i.e. skipping the sc row). In the stitch before each fptr you will work a dc2tog, which counts as a st in the first of the two sts. The fptr counts as the same st in which you work the second part of the dc2tog, so your stitch count should remain consistent. The pattern is worked this way so that you do not have a gap behind the post stitch. This will all make sense once you get crocheting!

Measurements & Finished Size

• This sweater is designed to be cropped to waist length and oversized in fit with wide sleeves – it’s all about cosy and comfort!
• Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes in brackets i.e. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)

Note that the PDF contains a schematic with all the measurements, but the details below should be enough to work with!

Finished Bust Sizes: 102, 118, 126, 134, 150, 158, 166cm

Length: 48cm

Sleeve Length 41cm

The Pattern

Body Panel

Make 2

Working from top down and using an 8mm hook, Ch53(61, 65, 69, 77, 81, 85); 

Row 1(rs): 1dc in third ch from hook and each ch to end, turn (51, 59, 63, 67, 75, 79, 83 sts)

Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 1sc in each st to end, turn

Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), dc2tog, 1fptr around second (corresponding) dc from 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down; rep from * to last st, 1dc in last st, turn

Row 4: As Row 2

Row 5: Ch2, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to last st, 1dc in last st, turn

Row 6: As Row 2

Row 7: Ch2, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to last st, 1dc in last st, turn

Row 8: As Row 2

Row 9: Ch2, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 3 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 10: As Row 2

Row 11: Ch2, 1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 3 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 12: As Row 2

Row 13: Ch2, 1dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 5 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 14: As Row 2

Row 15: Ch2, 1dc in next 4sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 5 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 16: As Row 2

Row 17: Ch2, 1dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 7 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 18: As Row 2

Row 19: Ch2, 1dc in next 6 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 7 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 20: As Row 2

Row 21: Ch2, 1dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 9 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 22: As Row 2

Row 23: Ch2, 1dc in next 8 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, 1dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 9 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 24: As Row 2

Row 25: Ch2, 1dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 11 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 26: As Row 2

Row 27: Ch2, 1dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, 1dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 11 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 28: As Row 2

Row 29: Ch2, 1dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 13 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 30: As Row 2

Row 31: Ch2, 1dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, 1dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 13 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 32: As Row 2

Row 33: Ch2, 1dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 15 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 34: As Row 2

Row 35: Ch2, 1dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, 1dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 15 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 36: As Row 2

Row 37: Ch2, 1dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 17 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 38: As Row 2

Row 39: Ch2, 1dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 17 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 40: As Row 2

Row 41: Ch2, 1dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 19 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 42: As Row 2

Row 43: Ch2, 1dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down, 1dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to 19 sts from end, 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 44: As Row 2

Fasten off, block both panels to shape

Shoulder seams

With ws facing, place the two panels together (so the rs and cables are inside) and, working into the back of the starting chains, create the shoulder seams by sewing or slip stitching together 13(17, 18, 20, 24, 25, 27) sts (matching st to st) along the top of the panels. Work from the outside edge inwards on each side, leaving 25(25, 27, 27, 27, 29, 29) sts unworked in the centre for the head hole.

Sew in ends

Side seams

Working from the bottom up, repeat on both sides;

With ws facing, stitch together up 24(22, 22, 20, 20, 18, 18) row ends, leaving 20(22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26) rows unworked for the armholes.

Sew in ends

Sleeves

Traditionally sleeves are worked as separate pieces and stitched into the arm holes once complete. However, I am not a fan of sewing pieces together and for this design it achieves the same effect to start working the sleeves directly into the row ends of the arm holes (less sewing and more crochet!).

If you prefer to work your sleeves the traditional way, start by making a chain of the stitch count listed in Round 1 plus one, then, starting in the second chain from hook, follow the instructions working in flat rows instead of joining with a ss at the end of each round. You will be left with a flat sleeve which you can sew to the arm hole and seam at the underarm at the end.

Repeat on both sides

With ws facing and using an 8mm hook, join yarn to top of side seam;

Round 1 (ws): Ch1, evenly work 56(60, 60, 68, 68, 72, 72)sc into the row ends of the complete armhole and ss to top of first st, turn (56, 60, 60, 68, 68, 72, 72 sts)

Round 2: Ch2, 1dc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 3 (dec): Ch1, sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn (54, 58, 58, 66, 66, 70, 70 sts)

Round 4: As Round 2

Rounds 5 – 22 (dec): Rep Rounds 3 and 4 (36, 40, 40, 48, 48, 52, 52 sts)

Round 23: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Change to 6mm hook

Round 24: Ch2,* dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc 2 rows down, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 25: As Round 23

Round 26: Ch2, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc 2 rows down; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 27: As Round 23

Round 28: Ch2, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr in corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 29: As Round 23

Round 30: Ch2, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 31: As Round 23

Round 32: Ch2, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 33: As Round 23

Round 34: Ch2, *dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding fptr 2 rows down, dc2tog, 1fptr around corresponding dc from 2 rows down; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 35: As Round 23

Round 36: Ch2, *1dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog, 1fptr in corresponding fptr 2 rows down; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 37 – 39: As Round 23

Fasten off and sew in ends

Hem

Using a 6mm hook and with rs facing, join yarn to the base of the side seam;

Round 1(rs): Ch1, 1sc in each st around the base of the sweater (front and back panels) to end, ss to top of first st, turn (102, 118, 126, 134, 150, 158, 166 sts)

Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st

Fasten off, sew in ends

Neckline

Using an 8mm hook, with ws facing, join yarn to end of shoulder seam;

Round 1(ws): 1sc in the back of each of the foundation chains around the whole neckline, ss to top of first st, turn (50, 50, 54, 54, 54, 58, 58 sts)

Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Change to 6mm hook

Round 3: As Round 2

Fasten off and sew in any remaining ends

And there you have it!! I hope you enjoy your finished sweater, give it a wash (being careful to follow the instructions on the ball band) and get cosy!!!

I hope you enjoyed making this sweater, any questions, just pop them in the comments. If you have a question, the chances are that someone else does too, so lets make this a resource!!!

I look forward to see you all wearing your So What Sweaters and caring less about the things that really don’t matter – like perfection and what people think! And if you haven’t already, you can read the story behind this design here!

Don’t forget to share your finished makes using #SoWhatSweater or tag me on Instagram @doraexplored. I’d love to see and share your efforts!

And if you enjoyed the learning, process, please help others find this pattern by sharing on your socials or saving to Pinterest (it really helps me to keep most of what I do free!)

Happy hooking

Dx

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(C) DoraDoes 2019.  You may sell what you make from my patterns, but please credit me as the designer at doradoes.co.uk. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared.  My photos may be shared with credit