Introducing the Summertime Hangout vest top. A casual quick make inspired by a previous wip and reused yarn!
It started life as a lacy poncho which never got worn (it was too big). The yarn wanted to be something else and here’s where it ended up! You can read the rest of the story here.
The Summertime Hangout top is a simple, relaxed V-neck crochet vest top, which is oversized to create drape over the body and left open (optionally) at the sides for that on-the-beach summer vibe.
Read on for more information and the free pattern or download an add-free printable PDF version from Love Crafts, Etsy or Ravelry
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Knowledge of basic crochet stitches and terminology is assumed.
The neck shaping uses simple decreases and the only seaming required is at the shoulders. Blocking is optional.
The trim on the neck, sides and the waistband use slip stitching and working into front loops
The pattern is written in 7 sizes from XS – 3X to accommodate chest sizes 76cm – 137cm.
This top is designed to be loose fitting around the body and shoulders, with a closer fit around the bottom of the waist so it sits on the top of the hip.
Suggested sizes to fit bust (given as: Size – To fit bust cm) are as follows:
- XS – 76cm
- S – 86 cm
- M – 96cm
- L – 106cm
- 1XL – 117cm
- 2XL – 127cm
- 3XL – 137cm
Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in brackets – i.e. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) sts or Rows.
This post explains in more detail how to follow patterns with multiple sizes (and how to read Dora Does crochet patterns in general!).
After writing my recent blog about how to crochet clothes that fit, I’m a lot more mindful about the challenge presented by fit. So the PDF version of the pattern also includes a full schematic and advice on how to adjust the pattern to achieve a customised fit.
For a small fee you can purchase the add-free PDF from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts
I’m 5ft 1(and a bit) a UK size 8-10 (US 4-6) and wear a size small in the pictures.
4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
You will need approximately 430(490, 540, 640, 700, 800, 870) metres of Double Knit yarn in a cotton and or linen blend.
The top you see here uses the following:
3(3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) balls of Rowan Creative Linen; 50% linen, 50% cotton, Shade 642, 100g ball = 200m / 219 yards
Note that I think the shade used in this pattern is no longer available (the yarn I used here was obtained from frogging an unworn poncho made some years ago!). The yarn itself is still widely available in various colours, at time of writing.
I have recommended using a linen or cotton blend, though other natural fibres such as bamboo would also work. You could try a wool yarn too, should you wish.
Personally, I would stay away from acrylic because the top is designed to be worn in warmer weather. Unlike natural fibres, most acrylic is non-absorptive, so would not be well suited to keeping you cool! But I am always happy for anyone to experiment.
You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.
- Yarn needle
- 2 place markers (for the neck trim)
- Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses standard US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
- Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Turning chains do not count as stitches
- Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
- The first stitch of each row / round should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous row / round, unless otherwise indicated
- The top is constructed from two identical flat body panels which are seamed at the shoulders (and optionally at the sides)
- Each panel is worked in rows from the bottom up, first working the body, then each side of the V-neck shaping in turn
- A trim is added to the V-neck, a waistband / hem, worked in rounds, is added to join the panels at the bottom, then a trim is crocheted onto the sides of the panels to finish
- Creating a side seam is optional
Stitches & Abbreviations
US Terms – UK equivalents given in brackets
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- esc = extended single crochet (UK extended double crochet) – tutorial here
- esc2tog = extended single crochet 2 together (UK extended double crochet 2 together) – see special stitches
- FLO = front loop only
- fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double crochet) – tutorial here
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
- sk = skip (UK miss)
- sp = space
- split sc4tog = split single (UK double) crochet 4 together – see special stitches
- ss = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Extended Single Crochet 2 Together (esc2tog)
This stitch is used in the neck shaping and decreases 2 stitches to 1:
Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops to complete the stitch.
Split Single Crochet 4 Together (split sc4tog)
This stitch is just used in the neckline trim for the base of the V-neck. It decreases 5 stitches to 1:
Insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), sk the next st, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook) yo, pull through all 5 loops to complete the stitch.
The pattern is worked using esc with a 2 row pattern repeat. The first pattern row will work esc in FLO all the way across, the second row will work esc in the BLO all the way across. You will continue to alternate rows of esc worked in the FLO then BLO throughout.
13 sts and 12 rows in 10cm / 4in of Pattern Repeat (above) using a 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
The Summertime Hangout Vest Pattern
Make 2 the same
After making the first panel you may wish to hold it up against yourself, or the intended recipient to check you are happy with the sizing.
A Note about Right Side / Wrong Side
I have allocated the ‘flat’ fabric the right side (RS) of my top so the rows where you work into the front loops will be right side rows. If you want to use the ribbed side as the right side of your top then the back loop rows will be your right side.
The top is essentially reversible, but using the terms right and wrong side helps to maintain consistency in the construction process.
Row 1 (WS): Make 55(61, 67, 75, 81, 89, 95)fsc, turn
Row 2 (RS): Ch1, (does not count as st throughout) 1esc in FLO of each st to end, turn. 55(61, 67, 75, 81, 89, 95) sts
Row 3: Ch1, 1esc in BLO of each st to end, turn
Rows 4 – 36(36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40): Rep rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep
Do not fasten off
You’ll work one side of the front V-neck shaping, fasten off, then rejoin your yarn and work the second side.
Note that I refer to first and second sides of shaping rather than left and right to avoid confusion for left and right handed crocheters.
I am left handed, so if you’re right handed, you’ll see a mirror image of the pictures shown below. This will not impact the finished pattern.
First Side Neck Shaping
Continuing from previous body row
Row 1 (WS): Ch1, 1esc in BLO of the next 25(28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45) sts, continuing to work in the BLO, esc2tog, turn. 26(29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46) sts
Row 2: Ch1, working in the FLO, esc2tog over first 2 sts, 1esc in FLO of each st to end, turn. 25(28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45) sts
Row 3: Ch1, 1esc in BLO of each st to 2 from end, continuing to work in the BLO, esc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. 24(27, 30, 34, 37, 41, 44) sts
Rows 4 – 20(20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24): Rep Rows 2 and 3 until you have 7(10, 13, 15, 18, 22, 23) sts left. You will end on a Row 2 rep
Fasten off leaving a long (20-30cm) tail to join shoulder seams
(You only need a long tail on one panel)
Your panel should look something like the one below (This and all photos may be a mirror image if you’re right handed)
Second Side Neck Shaping
Following to the end of Row 1 of the first side neck shaping, sk one st and join your yarn in the BLO of the next esc.
Row 1: Ch1, starting in the same st where you joined your yarn, and working in the BLO, esc2tog over the first 2 sts, 1esc in BLO of each st to end, turn. 26(29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46) sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1esc in FLO of each st to 2 from end, continuing to work in FLO, esc2tog over last 2 sts, turn. 25(28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45) sts
Row 3: Ch1, working in the BLO, esc2tog over the first 2 sts, 1esc in BLO of each st to end, turn. 24(27, 30, 34, 37, 41, 44) sts
Rows 4 – 20(20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24): Rep Rows 2 and 3 until you have 7(10, 13, 15, 18, 22, 23) sts sts left. You will end on a Row 2 rep
Fasten off leaving a long tail to join shoulder seams
(You only need a long tail on one panel)
Should you wish to, you can block your panels before joining.
Because I was going for the more relaxed look, I chose to just give them a simple press using a steam iron to even out some of the curl at the edges.
This worked because I was using a cotton / linen blend. Do not apply direct heat to acrylic yarn!
Lay your two panels together with the WS facing outwards (the RS inside facing each other).
Line up the tops of the neck shaping and, matching stitch to stitch, sew them together to create the shoulder seam.
I use mattress stitch as it lies flat. This is where you sew into each stitch from the centre outwards (as in the image below) and pull the yarn taught (but not so tight it ruffles up!).
There are lots of tutorials for this stitch online if you have not used it before.
Alternatively you can sew or slip stitch your seams in a way that works for you.
Once you have seamed your shoulders, pop the top over your (or the recipient’s head) to check the fit, remembering you still have the neckline trim to add.
Add a place marker in the base of the front and back V. This will be the stitch you missed when working the second side of the neck shaping.
With the RS facing you, join your yarn at the inside edge of the shoulder seam;
Round 1 (RS): Keeping your tension relaxed, evenly ss down the row ends to the base of the V, into the marked stitch, up the other side, into the opposite V and back up the row ends to the start, ss to ss and turn.
Move your markers up each row as you work
Note that you may need to play around with your slip stitching here to ensure the neck lies flat. I worked 1ss into each row end, keeping a relaxed tension, but you may need to work more, or possibly go up a hook size.
This row is important to ensure that the neckline does not stretch out of shape with wear, but it should not pull the panel too tight and cause puckering.
Because, to a large extent, the number of stitches will vary with your tension, I have not included a stitch count for this section
Round 2 (WS): Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to 2 sts before marker, split sc4tog working in FLO, move marker up, 1sc in FLO of each st to 2 sts before next marker, split sc4tog working in FLO, move marker up, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, ss to top of first sc to join, turn
Round 3: Without chaining, 1ss in FLO of each st to end, ss to first ss
Remove markers, fasten off
Waistband / Hem
The waistband is made using the same stitch pattern as the neckline. For a more relaxed band, you may want to just work 2 rounds of sc instead of using ss.
With RS facing, join yarn at the base of one of the panels at the side;
Round 1 (RS): Without chaining ss into FLO of each fsc across the base of the first panel, continue to ss into the FLO of each fsc across the bottom of the second panel, ss to first ss (joining both panels into a round) and turn. 110(122, 134, 150, 162, 178, 190) sts
Round 2 (WS): Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss to end, ss to top of first sc, turn
Round 3: Without chaining, ss into FLO of each st to end, ss to top of first ss
Optional Side Seams
If you want less of an opening at the sides you can stitch together the side seams before adding the side edging.
You may want to experiment with trying the top on and pinning the sides together to get the seam and armhole depths to suit.
Repeat on both sides
You will use the same trim pattern on the edging as you did on the neckline and waistband.
With RS facing, join yarn into the first row-end at the bottom of one of the side panels. This will be just next to where the waistband pulls them together, or at the top of the side seam if you added one;
Round 1 (RS): Working evenly up the row-ends, ss up the outside edge of the panel, over the shoulder seam and down the side of the other panel until you reach where the waistband joins the panels, ss into first ss, turn
I worked 1 ss into each row-end, ensuring I kept my tension relaxed but, as with the neckline, you may wish to customise this (so again, I have not included a stitch count).
Round 2 (WS): Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss to end, ss to top of first sc, turn
Round 3: Without chaining, ss into FLO of each st to end, ss to top of first st
Fasten off, weave in all ends
Throw on over a bikini as I did in the photos (let’s pretend I’m not 2 hours from the beach!!), and get ready to hang out!!
I hope you enjoy this pattern. If you like to share your work use #SummertimeHangoutTop on instagram to share or just tag me @doraexplored
If crocheting garments is your thing (or you want it to be), why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe”. We’d love to see your efforts there!
In the meantime…
(C) DoraDoes 2020. You may sell what you make from my patterns, but please credit me as the designer. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared or redistributed in anyway without prior written consent