After making a houndstooth scarf in sportweight yarn for a friend last year, I was determined to make one for myself too.

I am a big fan of clashing colours and wanted one in pink or orange, so when my friend Camilla from knitting needle lane gave me a beautiful hank of pink AND orange hand dyed double knit BFL yarn, I knew exactly what I was going to use it for!

I decided that I would make some changes to my original fringed scarf design. I’m calling it ‘houndstooth forever’ and it’s a vibrant take on the classic black and white monochrome, worked into a fun crochet infinity scarf.

This pattern is very similar but because I use a different yarn weight and a slightly different approach to the crochet dog tooth pattern repeat, I decided to write up the crochet pattern separately.

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Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers at the end of a round indicate the number of stitches in that round (the stitch count will remain constant for this pattern)
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The first stitch of each round should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous round (do not work into the slip stitch used to join the rounds)
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Each side of the fabric will look slightly different in terms of the way the colours are distributed, but there is no wrong or right side  – when doubled over, both sides of the fabric will be on display

Construction

• The infinity scarf is made in turned rounds joined with a slip stitch
• The number of stitches made will determine the length and the number of rounds worked will determine the depth
• The pattern uses a multiple of 2 stitches – You can read about stitch multiples here

Skills Used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• Chainless foundation stitches (foundation single and double crochet – tutorial here)
• Working in turned rounds
• Changing colour at the end of each round (you can carry the yarn up in this pattern – see notes below on colourwork)

Materials

Crochet Hook

4.5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge (I used my Clover Amour hook)

Yarn

Approximately 200g / 450m double knit yarn.

For the item pictured, I used the following:

Yarn A: 1 ball x Women’s institute home grown dk wool from hobbycraft, 100% wool, 100g ball = 225m. Shade: ecru

Yarn B: 1 ball x BFL dk from knitting needle lane, hand dyed, 100% Blue Faced Leicester, 100g hank = 225m. Shade: sweet shop

Yarn Substitution Options

Any similar yarn which matches gauge should work for this pattern. Different fibres will give different finished results.

You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

Yarn needle, scissors, tape measure.

I blocked this project, so recommend a blocking matt and pins. 

Learn more about blocking here.

Measurements

This infinity scarf is one size based on a standard women’s size small and intended for adult use only. 

The finished item measures 125cm long by 24cm deep after blocking.

Guidance on size adjustments

I like my infinity scarves snug when they are wrapped double round my neck but you may prefer yours looser – it’s important for safety and comfort that it’s not too tight.  

To increase the length of the scarf, increase the number of stitch pattern repeats you make on the foundation row (Row 1) until it reaches your desired size. Each repeat accounts for 2 stitches.

Make sure you can get your loop twisted twice round your head with plenty of room to spare (the infinity scarf will get tighter as you work more rounds).

I find foundation rows often shrink down after a couple of rounds are worked into them so do check your length again after a few rounds. It is important that the scarf is not too tight and is comfortable to wear when doubled over.

The more rounds you add, the longer your scarf needs to be to accommodate the width; i.e., adding rounds will shorten the circumference of the infinity scarf when worn double wrapped.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• fdc = foundation double crochet (UK foundation treble) – see special stitches
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – see special stitches
• rep = repeat
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

You can find a full tutorial for chainless foundation rows here

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st. To start the next st, insert the hook into the ‘v’ of the base chain you just created, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat from * for required number of sts.

Foundation Double Crochet  (fdc)

Ch3, yo, insert hook into third chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).  *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fdc). Yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st. To start the next st, yo and insert the hook into the v of the base chain you just created, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat from * for the number of stitches required.

Gauge

13 sts and 16 rows in 10cm of pattern repeat (Row 2 of the pattern) after blocking, using a 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

Colourwork

I advise changing colours by using the new colour for the pull through on the slip stitch you use to join the previous round.

I also suggest carrying the yarn up the joins rather than fastening off, but this is down to your preference.

My tip for hiding carried colours is to wrap the carried colour from front to back just before you yarn over to make the turning chain (and for each chain if you’re working more than one) – this kind of hides it in the chain and avoids floats.

I took a picture when photographing this item and realised afterwards that I was effectively giving you a close up of the seam. I decided to share it here anyway to show you what the seam looks like using this method. (Can you spot it?)

The Houndstooth Forever Crochet Pattern

In Yarn A;

Round 1: Make [1fsc, 1fdc] 82 times, ss to first st to make a loop ensuring you don’t twist your work, turn ready to work back along your foundation round (see tips on foundation rows for extra guidance). 164 sts

(your stitch count will remain the same throughout)

Join Yarn B

Round 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), *1sc , 1dc; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn.

Change to Yarn A

Round 3: As Round 2.

Change to Yarn B

Essentially you are working dc on top of sc from the previous rounds and vice versa. This is what creates the ‘jogging’ between the colours and creates the colourwork pattern.

Rounds 4 – 40: Rep Round 2, alternating colours each round.

Fasten off, block and sew in ends

How to find me and share your finished makes

• On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
• If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe” and share them there?
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Happy Hooking

Dx

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Dora Does Limited, Registered in England, Company Number 13992263. Copyright 2022.  This pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared or reproduced without written consent.