Hounds tooth crochet scarf pattern with fringe

The crochet version of the hound or dog tooth pattern is a surprisingly straightforward and mindful stitch to crochet.

It was a stitch I had seen many times never something I had tried before. But, following a conversation with a friend whose husband had shrunk her store bought dogtooth scarf, I told her I would have a go at making one to replace it.

Essentially a houndstooth print can be crocheted by taking the lemon peel stitch (seen in my list of favourites opaque crochet stitches) and changing colour each row or round.

I found it a very therapeutic stitch to work (except for the potential for ends but I’ll talk about later).

This project was really just intended as a gift but I enjoyed making it so much that I thought I would share the details here. Especially as I now want to make myself one in some clashing colours.

Read on for the free crochet pattern or purchase the ad-free PDF version for a small fee from Etsy, Ravelry or Love Crafts

Below is a close up image which shows how nice the crocheted texture is. It illustrates how the colours work up slightly different on each side on the left vs the right side of the picture.

Update: I’ve now made a super fun infinity scarf houndstooth scarf in super bold colours using double knit yarn – You can find the free pattern ‘houndstooth forever’ on this page.

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here. 

Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The first stitch of each row should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous row
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Each side of the scarf will look slightly different in terms of the way the colours are distributed, but there is no wrong or right side
• The pattern uses a multiple of 2+1 stitches – You can read about stitch multiples here

Construction

• The scarf is made in rows, with each row representing the length of the scarf
• The number or rows worked will determine the width of the scarf
• I added fringing to each end

Skills Used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology
• Working in rows, changing colour at the end of each row
• Chainless foundation stitches (foundation single and double crochet)

Materials

I decided to work with a sport weight yarn to create a small version of the print. It took a while to make but I really think the finished effect was worth it.

The materials I used for the item pictured are as follows:

Hook: 4.5mm crochet hook (I used a Clover Amour hook)

Yarn: Approximately 300g / 990m Happy Sheep, Baby Wool from Hobbii, sport weight, 100% Merino Wool, 50g ball = 165m / 180yds (roughly 150g / 495m of each).

• Yarn A: 3 x 50g balls Black (shade 05)
• Yarn B: 3 x 50g balls White (shade 02)

You will use a bit more of Yarn A than Yarn B (around 20g more).

My finished scarf weighed around 275g and used approx 910m in total.

You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

Other: 

Yarn needle & scissors

Optional: Approx 12.5cm / 5inch piece of card for cutting strands of yarn for the fringe

Finished size

This pattern is intended for use by adults only. The finished scarf measured 165cm long by 27cm wide unblocked. This excludes the fringe which added around 8cm on each side.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• fdc = foundation double crochet (UK foundation treble) – learn about chainless foundation rows here
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double)
• rep = repeat
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• yo = yarn over

Gauge

15 sts and 17 rows in 10cm of pattern repeat (Rows 2 and 3 of the pattern) using a 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

Managing ends and colour changes

In this pattern you alternate colours each row. I changed colour on the last pull through of the last stitch of each row. Fastening off at the end of each row leaves quite a lot of ends to wave in. 

For this pattern, I took the approach of incorporating the ends into a fringe rather than sewing them all in. It did take a while to add all the extra pieces of fringe, but I like the effect it created. 

If you want to add a fringe, make sure you leave a yarn tail a few cm longer than you want the fringe to be every time you fasten off and join yarn throughout the pattern. See notes after the pattern about adding a fringe for an outline of the approach I took.

The Pattern

You can also purchase an ad-free PDF version of this pattern from Love Crafts, Etsy or Ravelry.

In Yarn A;

Row 1: 1fdc, [1fsc, 1fdc] 122 times. 245 sts (your stitch count will remain the same throughout)

Fasten off Yarn A, join Yarn B

Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st here or throughout), 1sc in first st, *1dc in next st, 1sc in next st, rep from * to end, turn

Fasten off Yarn B, join Yarn A

Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st here or throughout), 1dc in first st, *1sc in next st, 1dc in next st; rep from* to end turn

Fasten off Yarn A, join Yarn B

Essentially you are working dc on top of sc from the previous row and vice versa. This is what creates the ‘jogging’ between the colours and creates the colourwork pattern.

Rows 4 – 47: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, alternating colours each row

Fasten off

How I added the fringe (optional)

Note that fringes are not suitable on items for children, infants or babies and this scarf is intended for adult use only.

When joining and fastening off yarn, I left a length of yarn about an inch longer than I wanted the fringe to be; you don’t want to leave your yarn tails too short either when attaching new yarn or when fastening off.

When I had finished the scarf, I took my crochet hook and pulled each yarn tail through its respective row-end back and forth a couple of times in different places, to secure them a little. 

Next I cut a load of lengths of yarn about 25cm / 10 inches long in both colours. By ‘a load’ I mean enough for at least one piece of fringe per row end on each end of the scarf, so around 50 of each colour (100 in total). The number of lengths you’ll cut will depend on how thick you want your fringe.

To cut multiple lengths at once you can wrap your yarn round a piece of card multiple times. The piece of card I used was about 12.5cm / 5 inches wide to give me yarn lengths of about 25cm / 10 inches. Then I cut through the yarn once to create multiple strands of roughly the same length.

Next I used my crochet hook to attach the yarn lengths to the row-ends of corresponding colour to create a fringe as follows:

I folded each strand in half, pulled the loop of the fold through row-end with my crochet hook, yarned over with the two open ends and the yarn tail from the same row, and pulled all 3 strands through the loop, tightening the loop around the row-end. I also tied the yarn tail to both pieces of fringe to further secure it.

I repeated this for each row-end on each end of the scarf and evenly added a few extra pieces to use up all the lengths I had cut.

Once I was happy with the amount of fringe I had added, I evenly trimmed the ends to finish. My trimmed fringe measured around 8cm long on either end of the scarf.

Enjoy your finished scarf!

Sharing your finished makes

I love seeing your finished makes – it gives me all the happy feels!

Here’s how you can share them on social media, if that’s your cup of tea!

• On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes or just tag me @doradexplored
• You can share your photos on  my Facebook page

Happy Hooking 

Dx

See more crochet scarves, wraps and shawl patterns.

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