Textured women’s crochet cardigan pattern (2 lengths)
The ‘Got your six’ crochet cardigan pattern is a women’s textured cardigan which is available to crochet in two lengths, cropped or below hip. The crochet stitch pattern looks a little like bobbles but uses basic crochet stitches in an easy to repeat pattern that’s relaxing to make.
The pattern is available free to read in 7 women’s sizes (with your email address / grow login) on this page, or you can purchase the ad-free PDF pattern from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts.
This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here
About the crochet cardigan pattern
When I started this design, the goal was to create a textured, cozy crochet cardigan pattern that would see you through the autumn, winter and into spring.
Not quite a coatigan but I wanted to design that crochet garment that you grab as you walk out of the door, or throw on over your pjs on a Sunday morning as you potter around the house.
The name came from my mild obsession with thrillers and detective based TV shows.
Got your six is military terminology for I’ve got you covered (six referring to someone’s 6 o’ clock – i.e. their back). With this cardi, my aim is to have you covered – I got your six!
I ended up making two versions because I fell in love with the texture and the pattern offers guidance for either the cropped length, seen in pink and the hip length, where I sized up, in the teal.
Crochet Pattern Notes
General Notes
- Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
- Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Turning chains to not count as stitches
- Instructions in (brackets) should be worked in the same stitch
- Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated
- Instructions written between [square brackets] should be repeated the specific number of times stated
- Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
Construction
- This pattern uses the modified drop style
- The cardigan is worked from the bottom up
- The body is worked in one piece which you will seam at the shoulders
- The sleeves are worked separately and stitched to the arm holes
- There is no right or wrong side until you add the shoulder seams
Skills Used
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
- Working in rows
- Working multiple stitches into the same stitch
- Simple increasing and decreasing (skipping stitches)
- Working into row ends
This is a relatively simple garment to make so is suitable for newer crocheters with some experience or those wanting to try their first garment.
The shaping of the neckline can be a little challenging for less experienced crocheters, but read the instructions slowly and take it stitch by stitch and you will be fine!
Materials
Crochet Hook
You will need a 6mm crochet hook for the body of the cardigan, sleeves and neckline (or size required to match gauge.
For the hem, collar, cuff and button band, I sized down to a 5mm hook as I found this to give a neater finish.
I used my Clover amour hooks
Yarn requirements
This pattern uses a worsted weight / aran yarn.
For the cropped version you will require approximately 1200(1250, 1370, 1520, 1680, 1750, 1980)m of Aran / Worsted weight yarn for sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) respectively
For the hip length version, the yarn requirements will increase to approximately 1400(1480, 1600, 1800, 1940, 2060, 2300)m of worsted weight yarn.
The pink version of the cardigan is worked using Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Aran.
Note that the hip length teal version you see uses Patons Decor which is a similar blend and weight to the Paintbox Wool Mix. This yarn has now been discontinued in most stores so details are not given here.
Yarn Substitution Options
A similar Aran / Worsted weight yarn (acrylic, wool or blend) which meets the gauge can be used for this project.
Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.
You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.
Other Materials & Notions
- 3-5 Buttons (optional)
- Place marker (or scraps of contrasting yarn) for positioning buttons
- Yarn needle scissors and a tape measure
- You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a blocking matt and pins. Learn more about blocking here.
On a side note, if you like the headband in the picture below that’s paired with the teal cardigan, you can learn how to construct one using ANY crochet stitch in my free twisted headband tutorial.
How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:
I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.
Measurements and finished size
- The pattern is written for the cropped length with instructions on where to add rows for the hip length version
- The pink version you see pictured is a size S in the cropped length and the teal is a size M in the hip length – both worn by me, UK size 8-10 (US 4-6), 5ft 1in
- The cardigan is a relaxed fit around the chest and is a more of a classic fit around the shoulders
- If you want something more slouchy, oversized or a coatigan style, I recommend you go up a size
- Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given below to help you in choosing a suitable size for you / the recipient of the garment
- Additional measurements are given in the schematic which follows
- The pattern is designed for adults and offered in 7 women’s sizes
- Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes in brackets in ascending order i.e. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) sts / Rows
- If you see a ‘-‘ in the instruction for your size it means that instruction does not apply
Finished measurements
The finished measurements for the cardigan are given in centimetres (cm) below for sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) respectively:
- Finished bust: 88(98, 108, 118, 128, 140, 155)
- Length for cropped: 43(43, 45, 46, 48, 48, 50)
- Length for hip drop: 57(57, 59, 60, 62, 62, 65)
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
- dec = decrease – denotes decrease row
- inc = increase – denotes increase row
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
- sk = skip (UK miss)
- ss = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
Stitch Pattern
This pattern uses a simple 1 row stitch pattern repeat throughout, worked with a multiple of 3+2 sts.
Gauge
14 sts and 11 rows in 10cm of gently blocked pattern repeat using a 6mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
You could use the instructions for the pocket to make your your gauge swatch.
Learn how to accurately make and measure a gauge swatch here.
Purchase the PDF version of the pattern now from Love Crafts, Ravelry or Etsy
‘Got your six’ crochet cardigan pattern
Body
Ch128(140, 152, 167, 179, 197, 218);
Row 1: (1sc, 2dc) in second ch from hook, sk 2 ch*(1sc, 2dc) in next ch, sk 2 ch; rep from * to last ch, 1sc in last ch, turn.. 127(139, 151, 166, 178, 196, 217) sts
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 24: As Row 2
For Cropped Length:
Continue to Left Front Shoulder (do not fasten off)
For Hip Length:
Rows 25 – 40: as Row 2
Continue to Left Front Shoulder (do not fasten off)
Note that until you seam the shoulders the pattern is reversible so left and rights are relatives so left handers can follow the pattern as written. (learn more about left handed crochet here.)
Left Front Shoulder
For all sizes, continue from body;
Row 1: Ch1, [(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc] 9(10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17) times, 1sc in next sc, turn. 28(31, 34, 37, 40, 46, 52) sts
Row 2: Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 18(18, 20, 22, 24, 22, 24): As Row 2
Left neck shaping
Here you will make decreases on the outside edge of the front left shoulder;
Row 19(19, 21, 23, 25, 23, 25) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 25(28, 31, 34, 37, 43, 49) sts
Row 20(20, 22, 24, 26, 24, 26) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. 22(25, 28, 31, 34, 40, 46) sts
Row 21(21, 23, 25, 27, 25, 27) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 19(22, 25, 28, 31, 37, 43) sts
Row 22(22, 24, 26, 28, 26, 28) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. 16(19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 40) sts
Row 23(23, 25, 27, 29, 27, 29) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 13(16, 19, 22, 25, 31, 37) sts
For sizes XS, S, M, L and 1X
Fasten off and continue to back panel
For sizes 2X and 3X
Row -(-, -, -, -, 28, 30) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. -(-, -, -, -, 28, 34) sts
Row -(-, -, -, -, 29, 31) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. -(-, -, -, -, 25, 31) sts
Fasten off, continue to back panel
Back panel
Sk 5 sts after the end of Row 1 of the front left shoulder, join yarn in sc;
Row 1: Starting in the same st as yarn was joined, ch1, [(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc] 20(22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 34) times, 1sc in next sc, turn. 61(67, 73, 82, 88, 94, 103) sts
Row 2: Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 23(23, 25, 27, 29, 29, 31): As Row 2
Right Front Shoulder
Sk 5 sts after the end of Row 1 of the back panel, join yarn in sc;
Row 1: Starting in the same st as yarn was joined, ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 28(31, 34, 37, 40, 46, 52) sts
Row 2: Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 18(18, 20, 22, 24, 22, 24): As Row 2
Right Neck shaping
Here you will make decreases on the outside edge of the front right shoulder;
Row 19(19, 21, 23, 25, 23, 25) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. 25(28, 31, 34, 37, 43, 49) sts
Row 20(20, 22, 24, 26, 24, 26) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 22(25, 28, 31, 34, 40, 46) sts
Row 21(21, 23, 25, 27, 25, 27) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. 19(22, 25, 28, 31, 37, 43) sts
Row 22(22, 24, 26, 28, 26, 28) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 16(19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 40) sts
Row 23(23, 25, 27, 29, 27, 29) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. 13(16, 19, 22, 25, 31, 37) sts
For sizes XS, S, M, L and 1X
Fasten off and block to shape if needed
For sizes 2X and 3X
Row -(-, -, -, -, 28, 30) (dec): Ch1, 1sc in first sc, sk 2 dc, 2dc in next sc, sk 2 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn. -(-, -, -, -, 28, 34) sts
Row -(-, -, -, -, 29, 31) (dec): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to 4 sts from end, 1sc in next sc (leaving 3 sts unworked), turn. -(-, -, -, -, 25, 31) sts
Fasten off and block to shape if needed
Below is an image of what the main body of the cardigan should look like at this stage. This is the hip length style. The cropped version will have a short body section below the armhole splits.
The slits will become the armholes when you seam the shoulders.
Make the shoulder seams
You may wish to leave long tails when fastening off the front shoulders and use them to stitch the shoulder seams together.
Fold the front sides inwards and sew the final row of the shoulders to the top to the back panel (working from the outside edges towards the centre) to create shoulder seams, matching stitch to stitch.
I use mattress stitch to create the shoulder seams, but you can use your preferred seaming stitch.
Sleeves
Make 2
Working from cuff to shoulder;
Ch38(38, 41, 47, 50, 50, 56)
Row 1: (1sc, 2dc) in second ch from hook, sk 2 ch*(1sc, 2dc) in next ch, sk 2 ch; rep from * to last ch, 1sc in last ch, turn. 37(37, 40, 46, 49, 49, 55) sts
Row 2: Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 5: As Row 2
Row 6 (inc): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 1dc) in last st, turn. 38(38, 41, 47, 50, 50, 56) sts
Row 7 (inc): Ch2, 1dc in first dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, (1sc, 1dc) in last st, turn. 39(39, 42, 48, 51, 51, 57) sts
Row 8 (inc): Ch2, 1dc in first dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1sc in sc, 2dc in last st, turn. 40(40, 43, 49, 52, 52, 58) sts
Row 9 (inc): Ch2, 2dc in first st, sk 1 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1sc in sc, 2dc in last st, turn. 41(41, 44, 50, 53, 53, 59) sts
Row 10: Ch2, 2dc in first st, sk 1 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last 3 sts, 1sc in sc, sk 1 dc, 2dc in last st, turn
Row 11: As Row 10
Row 12 (inc): Ch2, 2dc in first st, sk 1 dc, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last 2 sts, sk 1 dc, 1sc in last st, turn. 42(42, 45, 51, 54, 54, 60) sts
Row 13 (inc): Ch1, *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last 2 sts, sk 1 dc, 1sc in last st, turn. 43(43, 46, 52, 55, 55, 61) sts
Rows 14 – 15: As Row 2
Rows 16 – 45: Rep Rows 6 – 15. 61(61, 64, 70, 73, 73, 79) sts
Rows 46 – 47: As Row 2
Fasten off, sew in ends
Pockets (use for gauge swatch)
Make one or two as desired
To make a larger pocket, increase the starting chain ensuring it is a multiple of 3+2ch, and work more rows. For all sizes, Ch17;
Row 1: (1sc, 2dc) in second ch from hook, sk 2 ch*(1sc, 2dc) in next ch, sk 2 ch; rep from * to last ch, 1sc in last ch, turn. 16 sts
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), *(1sc, 2dc) in sc, sk 2 dc; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, turn
Rows 3 – 13: As Row 2
Row 14: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn
Row 15: As Row 14
Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch to body of cardigan, set aside
Constructing your cardigan
Note that I like to use the mattress stitch for sewing seams.
Before stitching, you may wish to try on the cardigan whilst pinned to ensure you are happy with the sleeve length.
With WS facing, pin the sleeve evenly into the arm hole, then sew together. Next, sew together the underarm of the sleeve from cuff to armhole.
Repeat on each side.
Sew on patch pocket(s) to the front RS of the cardigan.
Collar
Using a 5mm hook and with RS facing, join yarn to the top front of the cardigan where you worked the neck shaping;
Row 1 (RS): Work a row of sc evenly around the neck shaping to the shoulder seam, round the back of the neck (working 1sc into each st) and around the shaping on the opposite side, turn
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in each sc around to end, turn
Row 3: As Row 2
Fasten off
If you get some curling around the neckline you could gently block or steam this out, or adjust the tension and number of stitches you worked into the shaping so that the neckline lays flat.
Hem
Using a 5mm hook, and with RS facing, join your yarn to the back of the starting chain at the base of the cardigan;
Row 1 (RS): Ch1, 1sc into the back of each of each ch to end, turn. 127(139, 151, 166, 178, 196, 217) sts
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn
Row 3: As Row 1
Fasten off
Using a smaller hook means that the hem will pull the base of the cardigan in a little which is intentional to give it some shape. The same goes for the cuffs.
Button Band
You can learn more general information about how to crochet a button band in this tutorial which you may find useful if you haven’t made a button band in the past.
Using a 5mm hook and with RS facing, join your yarn to the row end of the hem;
Row 1 (RS): Evenly work a row of sc up the row ends to the neckline of the cardigan, turn
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn
Row 3: As Row 2
Fasten off
Buttonholes
To create the button band with the button holes in, decide on how many buttons you want to add and use place markers down the unfinished side of your cardigan to indicate their position
Using a 5mm hook and with RS facing, join your yarn to the top of the neckline;
Row 1 (RS): Evenly work a row of sc down the row ends, replacing the sc with the appropriate number of chains for your buttons next to where you have put your place markers and skipping the relevant row ends so that the chain sits flat against the side of the cardigan, turn (I used a ch2 and skipped 2 row ends in the cardigans you see here)
Row 2: Ch1, work 1sc in each st and ch to end, turn
Row 3: Ch1, 1sc into each st to end
Fasten off
Make sure you have the same number of stitches down each side of the cardigan. I would keep tension on the tighter side (but not so tight that it doesn’t lay flat!), as over time there will be some stretch so if your tension is a little tight, this will help the cardigan keep shape.
Adding the buttons
Line up the button holes with the button band on the other side of the cardigan and use place markers to mark where the buttons should be attached.
Securely sew on your buttons ensuring that the cardigan lays flat when closed.
Cuffs
Repeat on both sides
Using a 5mm hook and with RS facing, join your yarn to the underarm seam at the wrist end of the sleeve;
Round 1 (RS): Ch1, 1sc in the back of each foundation ch, ss to top of first st, turn. 37(37, 40, 46, 49, 49, 55) sts
Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st around, ss to top of first st, turn
Round 3: As Round 2
Fasten off, block as needed and sew in any remaining ends
You got your six!!!
I hope you enjoy this pattern and, as always don’t forget to share using the buttons below. I’d love to see and share your efforts!
How to find me and share your finished makes
- On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
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Happy Hooking
Happy hooking
Dx
More Crochet Cardigan Patterns
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Hi I bought this on Ravelry but forgot to sign in so now I can’t find it
Hi there, You should have received an email from ravelry with a link to download. If you can’t find it, please send me an email from the email address you used to purchase and your Ravelry username and I will look into it. Thanks 🙂
Hi I’m trying to obtain your free card I pattern thru revelry and there’s no spot to put in the free code – sorry! Carolyn
I can’t add a screenshot here, but when you click buy now or purchase there is a link to add a coupon code just above the checkout button.
The code FALLFASHION doesn’t work on Ravelry thx
Hi there. The code isn’t working at the moment as the event is not yet live. The discount code goes live at 8am PST October 6th, 4pm UK time later today for 24 hours. Please do check back then.
Many thanks. Dora
Hello!
Beautiful cardi! Looks like the code doesn’t work 🙁
Hi there, the event is not live yet. The discount code goes live at 8am PST October 6th, 4pm UK time later today for 24 hours. Please do check back then.
Many thanks, Dora
Thanks so much, but the code is not working,
hugs
The code goes live at 8am PST October 6th / 4pm UK time for 24 hours only 🙂
Enjoy!!