Geometric Joy Crochet Shawl

The brief in the interior of my mind when thinking about this design was to throw all the shapes in abundance into a shawl and create some joy!

What resulted was this asymmetric triangle shawl – my geometric joy!

I’m a big fan of geometric shapes and patterns. I adore folk style prints and fair isle knit patterns, and I wanted to bring some of that geometric goodness in its simplest form into the design.

It’s a fun therapeutic make, containing a mix of open work triangles and textured circular bobbles. This pattern aims to colourfully scatters shapes around like confetti!

You can purchase the shawl pattern from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here.

This design was part a collaboration with UK alpaca, who provided the beautiful yarn I’ve used.

Crochet Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row and are only given where there is a change
• Chain stitches within the row are included in the stitch count
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The first stitch of each row should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous row, unless otherwise indicated
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be repeated the specific number of times stated

Construction

• The shawl is worked in vertical rows increasing from the tip to the widest point
• You can work additional repeats to create a larger shawl
• The finished shawl should be blocked to shape
• On the rows using slip stitches, make sure you work with a relaxed tension

Colourwork

• You can adjust the colourwork as desired 
• The instructions given and yarn amounts are appropriate for the item you see pictured
• When working the solid section with the bobbles, I recommend carrying across the first contrast colour you use on the slip stitch / bobble rows
• To carry yarn on a slip stitch / bobble row, alternate your carried yarn behind, then in front of your hook each stitch to hide it. When working a bobble, you can carry the yarn underneath the stitch as is traditional

Skills Used

This is a relatively simple pattern worked mainly with double crochet (UK treble crochet) and chain stitches, with some cluster style bobbles and some slip stitching to keep it interesting.

You can learn more about the different kinds of bobble stitches here.

It is worked in rows using simple increases.

There is some simple colourwork which you can adapt to suit your style. Add more colours or use less.

Materials

Crochet Hook

4mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

I used my clover amour hook.

Yarn Requirements

You will need approximately 560-670m (250-300g) of double knit yarn. The sample you see pictured used UK Alpaca Superfine DK, 75% alpaca, 25% wool, 50g ball = 112m / 122 yds.

Shades and quantities:

• Main Colour (MC): 4 x Midnight Blue
• Contrast Colour 1 (CC1): 1 x Rose Pink
• Contrast Colour 2 (CC2)1 x Parchment

Yarn Substitution Options

This pattern could work in most fibres and can be worked in different yarn weights, thought Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

The amount of yarn and finished size will vary depending on the yarn you choose but you can vary the number of pattern repeats to accommodate this.

You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

I suggest working with a wool, acrylic or blended fibre for this shawl though I always love to see people experiment.

Other Materials & Notions 

Yarn needle & scissors

Blocking is strongly recommended to get the best from this design, so  in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins.

Learn more about blocking here.

Measurements & Finished Size

The shawl you see here measures 165cm long by 65cm wide (at the widest point).

To make a larger or smaller shawl, change the number of pattern repeats.

Additionally, if you choose a different weight yarn, or are working to a different gauge, then this will alter the size and the yarn amount.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• bbl = bobble – see special stitches
• ch = chain
• ch-sp = chain space
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• sk = skip (UK miss)
• sp = space
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Bobble Stitch (bbl)

The bobbles in this pattern are created by double crochet clusters worked as follows:

[Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 5 times in the same stitch, which will leave you with 6 loops on hook, yo, pull through all 6 loops to complete the stitch.

You can find a step by step photo and video tutorial here for the cluster stitch style bobble.

Note that bobbles should always be worked on a WS row.

You can find out more about the different types of bobble stitches here.

Gauge

18 sts and 8 rows in 10cm of blocked double crochet using a 4mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge is not essential for this pattern, but variations in gauge will lead to variations in finished size and yarn requirements.

You can learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here.

Purchase the PDF from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts Crochet, or read on for the free to view version.

The Pattern

Using MC and a 4mm crochet hook;

Row 1 (WS): Ch3, 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, turn. 1st

Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 2dc in first st, turn. 2 sts

Row 3: Ch2 1dc in first st, 2dc in next st, turn. 3 sts

Row 4: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts, turn. 4 sts

Row 5: Ch2, 1dc in first 3 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. 5 sts

Row 6: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 6 sts

Row 7: Ch2, 1dc in first st, ch5, sk 4 sts, 1dc in last st, turn. 7 sts

Row 8: Ch2, 2dc in first st, ch4, sk ch5-sp, 2dc in last st, turn. 8 sts

Row 9: Ch2, 1dc in first st, 2dc in next st, ch3, sk ch4-sp, 1dc in next st, 2dc in last st, turn. 9 sts

Row 10: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts, ch2, sk ch3-sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 10 sts

Row 11: Ch2, 1dc in first 3 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, sk ch2-sp, 1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in last st, turn. 11 sts

Row 12: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4 sts, sk ch1-sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 12 sts

Row 13: Ch2, 1dc in first st, *ch5, sk 5 sts, 1dc in next st; rep from * 5 sts from end. ch5, sk 4 sts, 1dc in last st, turn. 13 sts (note that you will only work instructions once for the first row 13 repeat)

Row 14: Ch2, 2dc in first st, *ch4, sk ch5-sp, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 14 sts

Row 15: Ch2, 1dc in first st, 2dc in next st, *ch3, sk ch4-sp, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 15 sts

Row 16: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts, *ch2, sk ch3-sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 16 sts

Row 17: Ch2, 1dc in first 3 sts, 2dc in next st, *ch1, sk ch2-sp, 1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 17 sts

Row 18: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4 sts, *sk ch1-sp, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 18 sts

Fasten off MC, join CC1 (pink)

Row 19: Ch2, 1dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. 19 sts

Row 20: Ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 20 sts

Change to CC2 (parchment), (carry CC1 across as described in pattern notes)

Row 21: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), bbl in first st, *ss into next 5 sts, bbl in next st; rep from * to last st, ss in last st, turn

Fasten off CC2, Change to CC1

Row 22: Working into the ss from the previous row, ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 21 sts

Join MC (carry CC1)

Row 23: Ch1, ss into first 3 sts, *bbl in next st, ss into next 5 sts; rep from * to end, turn

Fasten off MC, change to CC1

Row 24: Working into the ss from the previous row, ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 22 sts

Join CC2 (carry CC1)

Row 25: Ch2, bbl in first st, *ss into next 5 sts, bbl in next st; rep from * to 3 sts from end, ss into last 3 sts, turn

Fasten off CC2, change to CC1

Row 26: Working into the ss from the previous row, ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to end, turn. 23 sts

Row 27: Ch2, 1dc in each st to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. 24 sts

Fasten off CC1, change to MC

Row 28: Ch1, ss in each st to end, turn

Rows 29 – 46: Repeat rows 13 – 18 three times. 42 sts

Rows 47 – 56: Repeat Rows 19 – 28, reversing the use of CC1 and CC2 (so you will have an off-white section with pink and blue stripes and bobbles). 48 sts

Rows 57 – 100: Repeat Rows 13 – 56. 84 sts

Row 101 – 118: Repeat Rows 13 – 18 three times. 102 sts

Row 119: Using MC, ss in each st to end

Fasten off, block to shape, sew in ends

Note that should you wish, and if using the recommended yarn, you should have sufficient yarn in MC and CC1 to add tassels.

Click here for a simple tassel tutorial

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Happy Hooking 

Dx

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