Front and Back Crochet Cowl & Fingerless Gloves Pattern

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The asymmetric bursts of colour are created by the variegation in the ‘assigned pooling’ yarn, also known as zip yarn. A hand dyed yarn with one short burst of contrast colour along the loop of the skein. Other yarns can also be used for this pattern (see Materials and yarn substitution section for some more discussion on this)

You can learn more about working with variegated yarn, including planned and assigned pooling in this article.

The Lotus Pool crochet shawl pattern is another crochet pattern which takes advantage of this beautiful type of yarn.

You can read the crochet pattern below for zero cost or purchase the PDF version of the pattern on Etsy, Ravelry or Love Crafts.

Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
• Numbers at the end of a row indicate the number of stitches in that row and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The first stitch of each row should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous row 
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed – this appears only in the front and back post stitch descriptions
• Right and Wrong sides are nominal – choose your favourite!

Construction

• The crochet cowl is worked flat, in rows to create a long rectangle
• The rectangle is folded and sewn together along the short side using mattress stitch
• A trim is added to either edge of the cowl to neaten off the row-ends
• Each of the fingerless gloves is worked using the same stitch pattern as the cowl
• Two small rectangles of equal size are created with a small amount of easy shaping for the wrists
• The fabric is folded in half and seamed at the top and bottom, leaving a thumb-hole in the centre of the side.
• A simple cuff is added to the wrist and thumb-hole to finish 

Skills Used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• Working in rows with simple increases (for the fingerless gloves only)
• Front and back post extended stitches – see special stitches
• Simple seaming using the mattress stitch
• Chainless foundation rows are used to begin the fingerless gloves – see special stitches
• A photo guide to assist with some of the construction elements is included after the main written pattern (the photos are separated from the main pattern so it is optional to print them when printing the written part)

Materials

Crochet Hook

4mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge for the body of the cowl and gloves. 3.5mm hook (or size needed) for the trim and cuffs. I used my clover amour hooks

Yarn Requirements

Approximately 100g/425m of fingering weight / 4ply Assigned Pooling Yarn designed with a ‘short zip’ colour change. 

This means that you have about a 5:1 ratio of the main colour (150cm of bright blue in this case) to the contrast colour (30cm of rainbow neons) in your variegated yarn.

The cowl uses approximately 300m yarn and the gloves around 50m each.

Note that whilst I made both pieces from one 100g skein and had some left over, it might be quite close if using other yarns. If you’re concerned about loosing at yarn chicken, you might wish to make the cowl and core of the gloves first and then you have the option to use a different yarn for the trim of the cowl and/or the wrist and thumb cuff on the gloves.

The yarn used in this pattern was as follows:

1 x 100g skein The Wool Kitchen Zip Yarn Fingering weight/4ply sock yarn in shade Cosmic Girl Dark. 75% Merino, 25% nylon sock. 100g skein = 425m. This yarn does sell out around yarn show times, but can be dyed to order. 

Yarn Substitution Options

This pattern is all about the yarn, so if you’re substituting and want a similar effect, you will need to ensure you use a yarn with a similar assigned pooling colourway. As mentioned, this is about a 2:1 ratio, so when you open out the hank of yarn into a big loop, about 1/6 (30cm) will be the contrast colour and the rest (150cm) will be the main colour. The Wool Kitchen carries these colourways in different yarn bases should you wish to experiment with fibres. Remember that different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

You can use other variegated yarns for this pattern. Those with shorter bursts of colour – around 30 cm each should work well. It’s definitely something you can experiment with.

You can learn more about crocheting with variegated yarns here.

You could even work it in a semi-solid or solid yarn, choosing where you wish to add the post stitches to create your own textured pattern.

You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

• Yarn needle and scissors
• You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins. I only used a gentle steam block for these items, to relax the stitches, and did not pin them out.  
• Learn more about blocking here.

How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:

I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.

Measurements & Finished Size

The finished cowl is intended for adult use and measures 25cm/10in deep and 53cm/21in circumference.

The finished gloves come in one adult size and measure 17cm/6.75in, in circumference at the widest point, are 14cm/5.5in long and have a thumb opening length of 4.5cm/1.75in.

How to adjust the sizing

In order to make the cowl deeper or shallower, you can change the number of chains made on the first row.

To change the circumference of the cowl, change the number of rows you work (always working an even number).

To change the circumference of the gloves, change the number of starting foundation stitches. You can also work more increase rows at the beginning of the pattern.

To change the length of the gloves, change the numbers of rows you work. You will need to adjust where you create the seams to accommodate changes here.

Stitch counts and colour pooling

The stitch count used in this design was selected intentionally not only to achieve a certain size, but also to ensure the there was a nice staggered effect in the way the yarn pooled. I made about 20 sts between each colour change and set of 2 post stitches on the double crochet rows. 

With a total of 55 stitches across on the cowl, this was roughly 2.5 times each repeat between colours. This meant that the colour change appeared in a different place on each row. Had I used 45 stitches, it is likely that the colour pops would have stacked on top  of one another and given a completely different look.

If you are changing the stitch count on either the gloves or the cowl, do bear this in mind and maybe work a few rows to experiment with how the yarn pools.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• bp-etr = back post extended treble crochet – see special stitches
• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble crochet)
• fp-etr = front post extended treble crochet – see special stitches
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – see special stitches
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

The crochet pattern alternates rows of double crochet and single crochet throughout. On the double crochet rows, you will work a front then back post extended treble crochet stitch when you reach a colour change. These post stitches are always worked into the corresponding double crochet two rows below (or into other post stitches two rows below if the colours fall that way). Post stitches are never worked into single crochets in this pattern.

Front Post Extended Treble Crochet (fp-etr)

Yo twice, then, working from the front of the fabric, insert the hook behind the post of the indicated stitch (from front to back to front, so the post is in front of the hook), yo pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through one loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, pull through two loops] three times to complete the stitch.

The post will pull towards you as you work.

Back Post Extended Treble Crochet (fp-etr)

Yo twice, then, working from the back of the fabric, insert the hook in front of the post of the indicated stitch (from back to front to back, so the post is behind the hook), yo pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through one loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, pull through two loops] three times to complete the stitch.

The post will pull away from you as you work.

You can learn more about crocheting front and back post stitches in this tutorial. Post stitches are often called ‘raised front’ and ‘raised back’ stitches in UK terms.

You can learn more about extended crochet stitches here (if you’ve never worked them before, they are super simple so please don’t be intimidated!)

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st.

*To start the next st, insert the hook under the ‘v’ of the base chain you just created, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st; repeat from * for required number of sts.

You can find more details on chainless foundation rows, including a tutorial, here.

Gauge

22 sts and 17 rows in 10cm of alternating rows of single crochet and double crochet using a 4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. 

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

How the Front and Back Crochet pattern ‘works’

This patten is a bit different from a typical crochet pattern as the type of stitch you work is directed by the colour changes in the Assigned Pooling Yarn. For this reason each version of the cowl and fingerless gloves will be unique.

This will be outlined in the pattern below, but you just need to remember that whenever the colour changes from the main colour to the contrast colour section, you work a front post extended treble in the corresponding dc two rows down, followed by a back post extended treble in the next dc two rows down. 

These post stitches create the horizontal stripes (when worn) on the cowl and should take up the length of the contrast colour. After that you revert to working in dc until the next colour change arrives, or you reach the end of the row.

If you find you still have some contrast colour left over at the end of the stitches, you could relax your tension a little, so your post stitches use up more yarn, or perhaps even make a third post stitch – so you go front post, back post, front post.

If you run out of the contrast colour before the two stitches are complete, you could try tightening up your tension, perhaps using a smaller hook, or you could switch the front / back post extended trebles for standard front / back post trebles. The length of this stitch should still be sufficient not to cause a pull in the fabric.

On the single crochet rows, you continue to work in single crochet through the colour changes. This gives the vertical stripes on the cowl (when worn).

I found I made approximately 20 double crochets between each colour change on the dc rows and about 40 single crochets between the colour change on the sc rows.

Purchase the PDF version of the pattern from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy

Front and Back Crochet Cowl Pattern

Body of the cowl

Using a 4mm crochet hook, ch56;

Row 1 (RS): 1sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. 55 sts

Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as a st throughout), 1dc in each st to end, turn

Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1sc in each st to end, turn

Row 4: Ch2, begin to work in dc across the row, when the yarn changes to the short run of contrast colour, work 1fp-etr in the corresponding dc two rows below, then work 1bp-etr in the next corresponding dc two rows below, then continue to work 1dc in each stitch across to the end or until you reach another colour change, where you will work 1fp-etr followed by 1-bp-etr as before, turn at the end of the row. 55 sts

Rows 5-88: Repeat Rows 3 and 4

Fasten off leaving a tail of approximately 40cm to seam the two ends of the cowl

You should have a long rectangular piece of fabric 53cm by 25cm at this stage.

Below you see the two different sides of the fabric of the cowl when worked flat. Although the light is different, you will see that the colours and slant of the post stitches is slightly different on each side.

In this version of the design, it’s because the contrasting part of yarn I’ve chosen is itself variegated so the front post stitches always use the first part and the back post stitches the last. This means the colours vary slightly on the front and back.

Right and wrong sides are nominal. I chose the sc rows as the right side, but you can select your own preference and mark it at this point.

Joining and finishing

With RS facing, fold the fabric in two so the two short sides meet. You will now be working on the WS

Using the long tail you left when fastening off, sew together the first and last rows of the fabric matching stitch to stitch. This will create the loop of the cowl. I like to use the mattress stitch for sewing seams.

Turn out so the RS is facing and join new yarn to the edge of the seam you just made, using a 3.5mm hook;

• Work a round of single crochet into the row-ends which form the top / bottom of the cowl, joining with a slip stitch to the top of the first stitch to finish the round. 
• I worked 3 single crochet for each two rows (dc and sc row), but you can adjust your tension as desired.
• Repeat on the other side of the row-ends

Fasten off, and block cowl as needed.

I used a steam block to relax the stitches only, without pinning out.

Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The fingerless gloves are worked in a similar way to the cowl, only over a smaller area and with a few increases at the beginning.

I also started the gloves with foundation single crochets rather than a chain as this has more stretch, which allows you to pull the wrist section of your gloves over your hand.

Glove panels

Make 2

Using a 4mm crochet hook and leaving a 20cm starting tail;

Row 1 (RS): Make 31fsc. 31 sts

Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as a st throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st across to last, 2dc in last st, turn. 33 sts

Row 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 2sc in first st, 1sc in each st across to last, 2sc in last st, turn. 35 sts

Row 4: Ch2, begin to work in dc across the row, when the yarn changes to the short run of contrast colour, work 1fp-etr in the corresponding dc two rows below, then work 1bp-etr in the next corresponding dc two rows below, then continue to work 1dc in each stitch across to the end or until you reach another colour change, where you will work 1fp-etr followed by 1-bp-etr as before, turn at the end of the row. 35 sts

Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn

Rows 6-25: Repeat Rows 4 and 5

Fasten off leaving a tail of approximately 20cm to seam the sides of the gloves

Joining

Place both pieces flat with RS facing you as seen above. Like the cowl, you can decide which side you prefer – the gloves and cowl are more or less reversible so long as your seaming is neat.

Fold the left hand piece in half from the outside in so the long sides / row-ends line up with one another. 

Fold the right hand piece in half from the outside in so that the long sides / row-ends line up with one another.

The gloves should now be a mirror image of each other.

Working on either of the two gloves first, take the long starting tail from Row 1 and sew together the row-ends from the base upwards for 10 rows.  Again, I like to use the mattress stitch here.

Then take the long tail left when fastening off and sew together the row-ends from the top down for 6 rows.

Fasten off

You should now have a thumb-hole in the side of the glove. Try it on at this stage to check that the sizing is suitable. 

Repeat on the other glove

Cuffs and Finishing

Repeat on each glove

Wrist cuff

With RS facing, switch to a 3.5mm crochet hook and join your yarn at the base of the side seam;

• Ch1 and work 1sc into the back of each fsc from Row 1 around the base of the glove.
• Slip stitch to the top of the first sc to join

Fasten off

Thumb cuff

With RS facing, switch to a 3.5mm crochet hook and join your yarn at the base of the thumb-hole;

• Work a round of sc into the row-ends which form the thumb opening
• I worked 3sc for each 2 row-ends but you may wish to adjust this cadence to suit your tension
• When you get to the end of the round, continue working a second round of sc into the first, without joining or turning
• To finish the second round, either slip stitch to the top of the first sc of the second round and then fasten off, or fasten off without joining the round and use the invisible join when sewing in the ends

Check the fit one last time then sew in all remaining ends and block to relax stitches as desired.