Corner to Corner is such an enjoyable and versatile crochet stitch pattern to work. Those little square blocks have so much potential! Though c2c is more commonly used for home wears, I decided to try it as a wearable and the Block Rocking Poncho is the result!
The C2C Block Rocking Poncho is a fun and simple crochet pattern suitable for all experience levels.
You can purchase an add free printable PDF of this pattern for a small fee on Ravelry, Love Crafts Crochet or Etsy
- This pattern uses US crochet terms
- Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated
- Instructions given in (brackets) should be worked into the same stitch or space
- This pattern is worked using the corner to corner (c2c) stitch, a simple stitch pattern working 3 double crochets into a blocks. You can find a c2c tutorial here if you need some assistance
- The Poncho is worked seamlessly from the bottom front point, up to the neckline, where the head hole is created and down the back to finish
Skill Level – Easy
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches is assumed
- The pattern uses simple stitches and requires working into a chain, slip stitching and working in rows
Hook: 4.5mm hook or as needed to meet gauge
Yarn: 2 x Infinity Hearts Azelea (print 8) which is a Sport weight / 4ply, wool blend. Approx 300g, 1200m, 1400yds is required to make the poncho shown.
Substitution Options: This pattern can be worked with almost any yarn and appropriate hook. I recommend not going above a chunky weight yarn and using a hook a size or two larger than the size recommended for your yarn. This will keep your blocks loose and give good drape.
I also suggest blocking the poncho once it’s completed for the same reason!
Other: Yarn needle & scissors
Gauge is not essential in this pattern but for the item pictured, the gauge measures as follows (note that the gauge is given in blocks rather than stitches due to the diagonal nature of the stitch pattern):
4in (10cm) x 4in (10cm) = 5 blocks across x 5 block tall (measured across the diagonals)
Measurements & finished size
You can keep working your poncho until you are happy with it’s size
The Poncho described here measures approximately 115cm . 46in wide and long on the diagonal after blocking.
When worn it will stretch a little.
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet (UK treble)
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
- sk = skip (UK: miss)
- sp = space
- ss = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- tr = treble crochet (UK double treble)
Corner to Corner Stitch Pattern
The corner to corner (c2c) stitch pattern is a simple repeating stitch pattern worked on the diagonal using groups of ch3 and 3dc as the building blocks. The full instructions are given in the pattern below and you can also find a step by step picture tutorial here.
Pictures for creating the neckline are included within the pattern as this is likely to be less familiar.
Guidance on working with graduated / ombre yarns
If you’re working with a graduated or ombre yarn and want the colour change pattern to match on the front and back, you will need two skeins / cakes (or more depending on the size of the poncho and weight of yarn). Work one cake from outside in and the second centre out so you have the same colour along the neckline.
When you finish the increase and have created the head hole, weigh the amount of yarn you have left and pull away a similar amount of yarn from the centre of the second cake (if you worked the first one from the outside in), cut it off and start the back side with the remainder of the cake.
I pulled out slightly less than I thought I needed because I didn’t want to run out of yarn in the decrease – that would be the worst game of yarn chicken to lose!
Put the excess yarn aside to finish the neckline later.
The Corner to Corner Block Rockin’ Poncho Pattern
The pictures are for illustration only – your poncho will be much bigger than this!
Front – Increase Section
Row 1: Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook and next 2 ch, turn. (ch3, 3 dc / 1 block made)
Row 2: Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook and next 2ch, ss into top of ch at start of previous block, ch3, 3dc in ch3-sp, turn. (2 blocks made)
Row 3: Ch6, 1dc in 4th ch from hook and next 2 ch, *ss into ch3 sp in next block, ch3, 3dc in ch3-sp, rep from * to end, turn. (3 blocks made)
Rows 4 – 52: Repeat Row 3 (52 blocks)
I have worked this poncho to 52 blocks. The next row will be the final increase row which will make the poncho 53 blocks at the widest part. You can carry on making the poncho bigger if you like or stop sooner, depending on what yarn you are using.
The widest part will sit across your arms from wrist, over the shoulders and back to the other wrist, so make sure you are happy with the width before you go on to create the neckline.
Note that Row 3 is the ‘pattern repeat’ row – when the ‘pattern repeat’ is referred to throughout the pattern, you should follow the instructions after the asterisk as given on this row
Head Hole & Neckline
Decide how big you want your neckline by counting the number of blocks you are going to skip to create the head hole and making sure you have an even number of blocks either side.
For this pattern, I skipped 13 blocks and worked 20 blocks either side (53 blocks in total)
This gives a neckline width of approximately 16 inches before the border is added at the end.
For each block you are skipping you will need to chain 6 (as below) when making the head hole so I worked a ch of 78 (13 x 6).
Making the head hole:
Work the first 20 blocks through to the 20th ss using the standard increase row 3 repeat, ch 78, skip 13 blocks, *ss into next ch3-sp, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, rep from * to the end (you will have 20 blocks on either side of the chain)
Back – Decrease Section
Here we will work across the back of the head hole you just made and begin to decrease the size down the back of the poncho.
Please refer to the corner to corner tutorial for help with then decrease section.
Decrease Set-up Row: Turn, ss across the last 3dc of the previous row and into the ch3-sp, ch3, 3dc into the ch3-sp and continue with the pattern repeat until you get to the long chain you just made for the neckline
*sk 2 ch and ss into the 3rd ch, ch3, 1dc in each of the next 3 ch
Repeat from * to the end of the ch, ss into the ch3 sp from the last block you made before starting the long ch on the previous row.
You may want to count the number of blocks you made on this side of the chain to ensure they match the front.
Continue the pattern repeat to the last block, finishing with a ss into the ch3-sp – do not work 3dc in the last block as this is a decrease row.
Decrease Row: Without making a ch, ss across 3dc from the end of the previous row, and into the ch3-sp, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, continue pattern repeat to the last block stopping with a ss into the ch3 without working the 3dc
You will decrease by 1 block each decrease row
Repeat the decrease row until you are left with a single block
Fasten off, sew in ends
Neckline & Finishing
Row 1: Join your yarn (using the excess you put aside earlier if using graduated yarn) to one side of the shoulder seam so you are ready to work across the front of the neckline
Front: Ss into the first ch3-sp (as if you were continuing the pattern repeat), *ch1, (1sc, 1hdc, 1dc) in the ch3-sp, ss into next ch3-sp; rep from * to other shoulder seam
Back: Working into the chain you made when creating the head hole, *ss into the bottom of the ch that the 3rd dc was made in, ch1, (1sc, 1hdc, 1dc) in the ch2 space, rep from * to the other shoulder seam, join to first top st with a ss, turn
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in each st around the whole neckline (excluding the ch1s), join to top of first st with a ss.
Fasten off, sew in ends, block to size and shape if required
Get rocking your blocks!
I hope you enjoy this pattern and, as always don’t forget to share using the buttons below or tag me on Instagram @doraexplored, or use #hookmehappy. I’d love to see and share your efforts!
(C) DoraDoes 2018. You may sell what you make from my patterns, but please credit me as the designer. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared other than via this page. My photos may be shared with credit.