Be Bold: Free Mohair Stripy Crochet Sweater pattern

The Be Bold crochet sweater pattern is an easy lightweight pullover with a relaxed roll neck, perfect for spring and autumn and for layering up in colder weather.

It uses kid silk mohair and a relatively large hook meaning the simple crochet pattern works up fairly quickly. Ideal for quick wins or those looking to explore working with different fibres

The perfect combination of texture and strong colours, this jumper uses clashing stripes and simple stitches to take advantage of the soft fluffy halo of the yarn, encouraging you to BE BOLD!

Originally designed for Inside Crochet, Issue 111, the Be bold sweater can be read for free below and is also available to purchase as a stand alone PDF crochet pattern from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts.

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Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses US crochet terms 
• Numbers in brackets at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Turning chains to not count as stitches throughout
• Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches

Construction

• The Body panels are worked bottom up and seamed at the sides and shoulders.  
• The sleeves are worked in the round from shoulder to cuff.
• The roll neck, cuff and hem are worked in back loops only using short rows.

Skills Used

This is a beginner friendly project using simple stitches and simple decreases and a little bit of sewing to create the seams. Nothing too tricky though.

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches is assumed
• Working in rows and rounds
• Working in the back loop only

Materials

This pattern uses a 5mm crochet hook and the beautiful Rico Essentials Super Kid Mohair Loves Silk in Melon and Lotus. It’s beautifully soft, extra lightweight and goes a really long way!

Crochet Hook

You will need a 5mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.

I used a Clover Amour Crochet Hook for this project – one of my favourites – learn more about different crochet hooks here.

Yarn Requirements

You will need approximately 100(1200, 1400, 1600) metres of lace weight Kid silk mohair yarn for this pattern.

The item pictured used Rico Design Essentials Super Kid Mohair Loves Silk in two colours, 70% mohair/30% silk, 25g/200m/119yds

• Yarn A: Melon 18 x 2 (3, 3, 4) balls
• Yarn B: Lotus 26 x 3 (3, 4, 4) balls

Yarn Substitution Options

You can use similar lace weight mohair blend for this pattern. Other lace weight brushed yarns, such as brushed alpaca, with a large halo which works to the same tension could also work for this pattern.

Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

Yarn needle, scissors and a tape measure

You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a Blocking board and pins. Learn more about blocking here.

Sizes

The pattern is written in 4 sizes – S(M, L, XL) (to fit bust 81-117cm). This is on my list to recreate in a larger range of sizes, so please do watch this space!

It’s designed with positive ease to be lightweight and roomy, without being baggy, so it’s great for layering up when the weather doesn’t have a clue what it’s doing. (The mohair is deceptively warm so it’s great for colder days too!)

• The Sweater you see pictured is a size S
• The Be Bold Sweater is designed to be a relaxed fit without being oversized
• Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given below to help you in choosing the correct size.
• Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes in brackets

Finished measurements:

• Approximate finished chest circumference: 90(100, 110, 120)cm
• Approximate finished length: 56(56, 60, 60)cm
• Approximate length of underarm: 46cm for all sizes

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• blo = back loop only
• ch = chain
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double crochet) – see special stitches
• hdc = half double crochet (UK half treble crochet)
• hdc2tog = half double 2 together (UK half treble 2 together)
• rep = repeat
• rnd(s) = round(s)
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• sk = skip (miss)
• sp = space
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc) (UK Foundation Double Crochet)

Ch2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).  *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base stitch of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st.  To start the next st, insert the hook into the ‘v’ of the base stitch, yo and pull up a loop.  Repeat from * for required number of sts.

You can find more details on foundation rows including a tutorial here.

If you struggle with this technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches plus 1, then work 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each chain across to achieve the required number of sts.

Gauge

Work 14 sts and 12 rows over 10cm of half double crochet using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension. 

It’s essential Work with a relaxed tension to ensure the impact of the halo is not lost.

The sample was unblocked.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here.

The Be Bold Crochet SweaterPattern

Body Panel 

Make two

Using 5mm hook and yarn A work as follows: 

Row 1: 63 (70, 77, 84) fsc, turn – 63 (70, 77, 84) sts.

Rows 2–12 (12, 13, 13): Ch2 (does not count as st here or throughout), 1hdc in each st to end, turn.

Break yarn A, join in yarn B.

Rows 13 (13, 14, 14)–24 (24, 26, 26): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Break yarn B, join in yarn A.

Rows 25 (25, 27, 27)–36 (36, 39, 39): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Break yarn A, join in yarn B.

Row 37 (37, 40, 40) –41 (41, 45, 45): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Row 42 (42, 46, 46): Ch2, hdc2tog, 59 (66, 73, 80) hdc, hdc2tog, turn – 61 (68, 75, 82) sts.

Rows 43 (43, 47, 47)–47 (47, 51, 51): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Row 48 (48, 52, 52): Ch2, hdc2tog, 57 (64, 71 ,78) hdc, hdc2tog, turn – 59 (66, 73, 80) sts.

Break yarn B, join in yarn A.

Rows 49 (49, 53, 53)–53 (53, 58, 58): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Row 54 (54, 59, 59): Ch2, hdc2tog, 55 (62, 69, 76) hdc, hdc2tog, turn – 57 (64, 71, 78) sts.

Rows 55 (55, 60, 60)–60 (60, 65, 65): Ch2, hdc to end, turn.

Fasten off.

Joining body panels

Place body panels with right sides together and, with WS facing, seam sides, sewing up 39 (36, 38, 35) rows from the bottom, leaving remainder open for armholes.

Sew shoulder seams from outside inwards across 14 (17, 19, 22) sts, matching stitch to stitch and leaving 29 (30, 33, 34) sts unworked on each panel for neck opening.

Because there is no shaping, do try the body of the sweater on at this point to check there is surplus room for the head opening and that the sweater sits comfortably around your neck. You can adjust the length of the shoulder seams to customise the width of the neckline to suit.

You should also check that the depth of the armholes is suitable and a comfortable fit at this stage. You can alter the depth of the armhole bu changing the length of the side seam. Note that this will impact the number of stitches in your sleeve, so adjust further stitch counts as appropriate.

Sleeves

Make two the same

With WS facing, join yarn B at underarm (top of side seam).

Rnd 1: Ch2 (does not count as st here or throughout), work 44 (50, 56, 62) hdc around armhole, working 1 st in each row and one in shoulder and side seam, turn – 44(50, 56, 62) sts.

Rnd 2: Ch2, hdc around, join to top of first st with ss, turn.

Rnd 3: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn – 43 (49, 55, 61) sts.

Rnds 4 & 5: Ch2, hdc around, join to top of first st with ss, turn.

Rnd 6: Ch2, hdc2tog, hdc around, join to top of first st with ss, turn – 42 (48, 54, 60) sts.

Rnds 7–12: As Rnds 4–6 – 40 (46, 52, 58) hdc.

Break yarn B, join in yarn A.

Rnds 13–24: As Rnds 4–6 – 36 (42, 48, 54) hdc.

Break yarn A, join in yarn B.

Rnds 25–36: As Rnds 4–6 – 32 (38, 44, 50) hdc.

Break yarn B, join in yarn A.

Rnds 37–48: As Rnds 4–6 – 28 (34, 40, 46) hdc.

Break yarn A, join in yarn B.

Cuff

With WS facing cont as follows:

Set-up Rnd: Ch1 (does not count as st here or throughout), sc around, join to top of first st with ss, turn – 28 (34, 40, 46) sc.

Row 1: Ch11, 1hdc in second ch from hook and next 9 ch, ss in each of next 2 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn –10 hdc, 2 ss.

Row 2: Sk each ss, 1hdc blo in each of next 10 sts, turn – 10 hdc blo.

Row 3: Ch1, 10hdc blo, sl sl in each of next 2 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 around cuff to end.

To join, ss through blo of last row and blo of starting ch.

Fasten off.

Roll Neck

With WS facing join yarn B at shoulder seam.

Set-up Rnd: Ch1 (does not count as st), work 1sc in each st around, join to top of first st with ss, turn – 58 (60, 66, 68) sts.

Note that you can adjust the number of stitches around the neckline to customise the circumference of the roll neck.

Row 1: Ch26, 1hdc in third ch from hook and next 23 ch, ss in each of 3 sts on Base Rnd, turn – 24 hdc, 3 ss.

Row 2: Sk ss, 1hdc blo in next 24 sts, turn – 24 hdc blo.

Row 3: Ch2, 24hdc blo, ss in each of next 2 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn – 24 hdc, 2 ss.

Row 4: As Row 2.

Row 5: Ch2, 24hdc blo, ss in next 3 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn.

Rep Rows 2–5 around neckline to end.

To join, ss through blo of last row and blo of starting ch.

Fasten off.

Hem

With WS facing, join yarn B to bottom of side seam 

Set-up Rnd: Ch1 (does not count as st here or throughout), sc around, join to top of first st with ss, turn – 126 (140, 154, 168)sc.

Row 1: Ch11, 1hdc in second ch from hook and next 9 ch, ss in next 3 sts on Set-up rnd, turn – 10 hdc, 3 ss.

Row 2: Sk all ss, 1hdc blo in next 10 sts, turn – 10 hdc blo.

Row 3: Ch1, 10hdc blo, ss in each of next 2 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn – 10 hdc, 2 ss.

Row 4: Sk all ss, 10hdc blo, turn. 

Row 5: Ch1, 10hdc blo, ss in next 2 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn.

Row 6: As Row 4. 

Row 7: As Row 5.

Row 8: As Row 4. 

Row 9: Ch1, 1hdc in blo of next 10 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Set-up Rnd, turn.

Rep Rows 2–9 around bottom of hem to end.

To join, ss through blo of last row and blo of starting ch.

Fasten off, sew in all ends

Acknowledgements

This pattern was originally designed for Inside Crochet Issue 111.

With thanks to Kath Webber for styling and Leanne Jade for the photography.

Download the PDF version now from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts

How to find me and share your finished makes

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Happy Hooking 

Dx

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