What’s the best crochet hook? Hook anatomy and styles explained

If you’re familiar with this blog, then you will know that the designer in me loves to understand how things are put together and how that effects their function. (If you’re about to read your first Dora Does post, you’ll pick up on this pretty fast!)
Whether it’s examining the anatomy of a crochet sock, breaking down garment construction or looking at how a yarn gets it’s weight, I have this inbuilt need to understand how things work!
Today I am using that to go right back to the fundamentals and look at one of our two most important tools. The crochet hook. (The second being yarn btw!)
It surprised myself that, given what a foundational part of crochet the humble hook is, this is the first time I’ve dedicated a post to it.
When something just works, does it’s job and is completely reliable, it’s easy to almost forget it’s there. It becomes part of the furniture I guess. What a thing to take for granted! I hope to make up for that and then some!!

This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click a link to a product and go on to make a purchase, I receive a small percentage of the sale at no extra cost to you. You can read my full affiliate disclosure here. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
When I first started, to crochet, I used the plastic hook that came with my beginners kit. It didn’t even have a size stamped on it. As I learned that different hook sizes existed, I moved on to buy a few simple aluminium hooks and progressed from there.
Over the years, I have tried a whole range of hooks, from most major brands. I enjoy changing it up because I think it’s healthy for my wrists to change the grip and movement every now and then. I also use different types of hooks for different projects.
But, the truth is that I always default to clover amour (though it took me a while to build the whole set!). They are the hook that best suits the way I crochet. However, that is just me. You might prefer something completely different. I want to use this post to explain why that is and how to go about finding your own default.
What is the best crochet hook?
I see this question asked a lot on all kinds of crochet groups on facebook and elsewhere.
The answer is that there isn’t a ‘best’ hook. What there might be however, is a best hook FOR YOU!
By understanding what goes into those little crochet magic wands, you can consider how these features might work with your crochet style, experiment and answer this question for yourself.
Below, I will explain the main features which vary between crochet hooks and how these may impact your preferences, your crochet rhythm and tension.
I do recommend trying a bunch of different styles, as funds and opportunity allows. Because once you find ‘your’ hook, you will know it! (It really IS like a magic wand!).
I’m going to say from the start that I’m aware I have developed rather an extensive crochet hook collection over the years (Which you will see snippets of thought!). I appreciate that this may not be the case for everyone. So whilst I suggest trying different things, or substituting different hook styles willy nilly, I appreciate this may not be feasible for all.
However, these suggestions are useful, even if you’re not currently expanding your hook collection. When you start to understand what works for you, it will help you make more informed buying choices when you do come to invest – hopefully saving you money in the long term!
My other tip is that, if you’re looking to experiment, it’s worth keeping an eye on charity / goodwill shops so you can try different styles of hook at a lower cost!
Okay, lets get started by explaining the core features in your crochet hook.
The anatomy of a crochet hook
The image below shows the main functional parts of a typical crochet hook. These are the terms I will refer to throughout the article.

Lets look at these in a little more detail;
Point
This is the very top tip of the hook. It’s the part that you insert into your stitches. It can be sharp, rounded, almost flat and anything in between!
Lip
This is the part that ‘catches’ your yarn when you’re pulling up loops. The hook of the hook so to speak. It’s shape and sharpness / softness can have a big impact on how it works with the yarn.
Throat and Bowl
The throat is the part of the hook which is angled from the shaft down towards the inside curve of the hook (the bowl). The shape and angle of the throat can vary and can have an impact on your tension.
The interior shape of the hook is referred to as the bowl. It is where the yarn sits when it is hooked. The bowl can be shallow or deep, smooth or more angular depending on the style of hook.
Shank / Shaft
This is the bit that you make the stitches with. The diameter (width across the round) is where the hook measurement is taken. I.e. a 4mm hook will have a shaft that measures 4mm across.
When you slide your hook into the stitches, you need to make sure the yarn slides up to the shaft to achieve an even tension. If you make stitches with the throat instead of the shaft then you will find your will be very tight when you try to work into them.
Grip or thumb Rest
This is where your fingers and thumb hold the hook. Some hooks have flattened thumb rests, some have none at all. This is where hook design can vary enormously and preference and personal comfort start to come into play. The style of grip you have will likely impact which shape of thumb rest you prefer. More on grip later!
Handle
This part of the hook lays either through the centre of your hand or rests on top of it, depending on how you hold it. The length and style can vary. Many handles are straight and others are shaped for ergonomics. (Keep reading for a bunch of examples which show how much handles can vary.)
Crochet Hook Styles: Inline vs Tapered
All hooks have the same basic anatomy, but there are two main categories within most common hook designs: tapered and inline.
Neither one is better or worse, it’s an individual choice thing again. But it is worth understanding the differences and how they can impact your crochet.
What’s the difference between inline and tapered crochet hooks?
In simplest terms, the head of an inline hook is ‘in line’ with the shaft. With a tapered hook, the lip sticks out beyond the shaft.
Below you will see an image of two 8mm crochet hooks. The wooden, brightly coloured hook on the right is an example of an inline style (the head is the same width as the shaft) and the yellow handled metal one on the left is the tapered style (the lip sticks out beyond the shaft).

There is a little bit more to it, so lets take a look at the features of each type in more detail.
Inline Crochet Hook Features
The distinguishing feature of an inline hook is that the head of the hook is ‘in line’ with the shaft.
It is said, (though I’m not entirely convinced), that this consistency in size helps crocheters maintain a consistent stitch size. Some people would therefore recommend inline hooks for beginners. Most of the basic aluminium hooks are the inline style. Beginner or not, if you’re struggling with your tension on a tapered hook you may want to try switching to inline.
The taper from the shaft to the throat in an inline hook is a little more angular than the tapered hook. Often the throat is flat rather than rounded and the bowl is deeper or more angular.
This means that an inline hook will ‘catch’ the yarn more firmly. Depending on how you look at it, this could be a pro or a con. If you struggle to keep the yarn on your hook when pulling it through then an inline hook would help with this. Personally, I find that some of them can be a bit ‘catchy’.
In many, but not all, inline hooks you may also notice (as in the wooden hook pictured below) that the throat of the hook does not narrow towards the head when you look from the front or back. This is another contributor to stitch consistency.
Below you’ll see two quite different hooks from different angles. They are both the same size (12mm) and are inline (the head and shaft are the same width), but there is quite a bit of variation in other areas such as the handle and the throat shaping.
Tapered Hook Features
The distinguishing feature of a tapered hook is that the head, and in particular the lip, pokes out beyond the shaft of the hook.
The shaft slopes more softly towards the head and in a more rounded style, narrowing at the throat.
The head of the hook is also often more rounded at the lip.
Below are a couple of examples of tapered hook. Again there are quite a few differences. I’m showing you more than one example because I think it’s helpful to recognise the variation within the categories.
Personally I prefer a tapered hook, but I believe that preference is impacted by how you crochet. Both the amount of twist in your wrist and the way you grip your hook and yarn will contribute towards this.
The different ‘grips’ and how you hold your crochet hook
Broadly speaking, they way crocheters hold, or ‘gip’ their hooks falls into two categories; the knife grip and the pencil grip. They are pretty much as they sound!
The knife grip:


The pencil grip:


I hold my hook like a knife – I marvel at the precision people seem to have with the pencil grip. I’ve had a go at changing it up, but I feel like I’m trying to crochet wearing mittens or something!!
Taking a picture of me holding my hook like a pencil for the image above felt very strange to me!
As there is no ‘best’ hook, there is also no best grip. There is what works for you and gets the job done! I often wonder if there is a relationship between grip style and hook preference, but I’m yet to see the science!
Crochet hook size and hook style
If you have been crocheting any length of time, you will know that you work with different size crochet hooks with different yarn weights and to achieve the gauge or tension that a pattern is calling for.
There are may different scales for sizing crochet hook and you can find a chart comparing the different global crochet hook size terminology used here.
I always stick to the metrics sizing personally. That is, the diameter of the shaft of the hook in mm. So typically I might work with a 4mm (G/6) hook when working with double knit or 4ply yarn.
I’ve always wondered how accurate the sizing is on crochet hooks and whether there was a difference in different materials and styles. So I did a little experiment for this post.
Below you’ll see 6 4mm crochet hooks in different styles and materials. I used my hook measure to see if they actually were all the same circumference.

Now it’s worth noting that this isn’t a particularly precise method of measuring hooks and fine tuned callipers would be more accurate. However, I was relieved to find that all hooks hit the same mark on my measure. Near enough for me.
(I tried it with a bunch of 6mm hooks too and found the same result.)
Does it matter what material your hook is made of?
The most common materials used in crochet hooks are metal, plastic and wood. They all have a different feel, weight and glide to them so this is another area where personal preference intervenes.
The different materials used will come with a variation in amount of friction between the hook shaft and the yarn. Though this might not make a huge difference (again, this is my experience and intuition speaking rather than science), I think the different materials will impact your tension.
If you change to a hook the same size but a different material part way through a project, I’m fairly sure you’ll notice a difference in your tension as the yarn will slide over the hook in a different way. Note, I am not recommending you do this for any other reason than to experiment!!!
If you’re using a wooden hook, It’s really important that it’s well sanded and preferably waxed or varnished because the last thing you want is splinters catching on the yarn. Most commercially available hooks are absolutely fine for this purpose. And I find that the more you work with a wooden hook, the softer and smoother it gets.
Generally I work with metal hooks until I get above a 6mm when I lean towards wooden or plastic. But overall I don’t really have a preference. The grip, comfort and consistency in stitch tension is more important to me.
Handles and ergonomic grips
There is endless variation in the sizes and shapes of crochet hook grips and handles. Below is a bit of a medley to demonstrate.

Many hooks claim to have ergonomic designs and reduce repetitive strain injury risk and help with wrist health etc etc. I think these claims will work for some and not others. A hook that might ease wrist strain for one crocheter may increase it for another.
Having injured my wrists in the past, I can’t emphasise enough how important it is to look after your joints and, regardless of what hook you use, take regularly breaks and do some wrist exercises!
This area is another case of trial and error and seeing what works.
Crochet hook selection, yarn and project type
You may find that you prefer different hook styles for different project types, fibres and yarn weights.
I already mentioned that I prefer metal hooks for lighter yarns and wood or plastic for chunkier weights, but there can be more variation within that.
For example, for a typical garment, I would always go to a tapered hook, like the clover amour for anything up to about a 6mm. After that I like the lightness of a wooden hook. I love my knit pro 8mm and my plastic clover amour 12mm, and I have inline bamboo hooks in 9mm and 10mm that I like using too (I think these are knitpro too but the brand has long since worn off!!).
If I was working with a project which had a tight tension, like an amigurumi, then I would want something with a bit more of a defined point on the top of the head, so that it’s easier for me to insert it into the tight stitches.
If I’m working with a really silky, slippy yarn then I may be more likely to choose an inline hook, whereas if I’m working with a rougher yarn like a natural , non-mercerised cotton or a woolen woven wool (the fluffy kind), then I would go with a tapered hook for a smoother motion.
These are just a few examples of how your hook choice interacts with what project and yarn you’re working with. There will be more, but I just wanted to give you an idea of the interplay between the elements.
Other things to consider when choosing your crochet hook
You bring uniqueness to hook choice, so something else to consider is the hook to hand size comparison.
I have small hands and I really think this makes a difference. Because I have a knife grip, the handle of the hook runs inside my closed hand, so anything too long gets in my way.
I think that’s one of the reasons I love my dinky double ended Hamanaka Japanese hook and why the Addi swing tends to gather dust.

How to find your perfect crochet hook
The hook style, your grip, the hook size, the type of handle and the material your hook uses will all impact how your yarn works up. But the most important factor is you.
I highly recommend trying as many variations of crochet hooks as you can, to find what works for you. This may be a slow process and your preferences may change over time. It was only last year I tried the clover soft touch for the first time (this one has a flat handle so is quite different from what I’m used to), but I really enjoyed working with it.
There is always room to learn!
I hope you have found this a useful insight into all the invisible things that go into our trusty hooks. Fingers crossed I have left you with some food for thought about what your preferences might be, what to look out for and maybe an idea of what you might like to try next.
And on that note…
… Happy hooking!
Dx
This was a great read. I have very small hands but my first generic set of cheap hooks had an unusually long shaft so now I find that, though my clovers and tulips slide like butter and the handle is very comfortable in my small grips, it doesn’t feel right, the shaft is too short for my motions. I found I prefer a hook with a long shaft or no noticeable break between shaft and handle.
It’s a weird combo, bamboo/wood hooks feel too big in my little hand, although they usually are quite long.
So far my favorites are my prym plastic hooks (although they look like my toothbrush) and my one Furls streamline hook.
Thanks for sharing. It’s so interesting how we all develop our preferences in different ways. Familiarity is a big one! (and the toothbrush comment made me chuckle!)
Thanks for all this wonderful information. I have recently taken up seed bead crochet ropes with size 8 beads. The hook points are very small.
In the past, I worked a lot of Tunisian crochet. And even used double ended Tunisian crochet hooks.
I found an aluminum hook maybe size J that was great for my mittens worked in the round. I took my Dremel sander and sanded the tip of the hook to a beautiful pointy shape that has flat sides, that just slides perfectly under the wool yarn loops. I hope this idea helps others to perfect their crochet work.
What a great idea, I had never thought of customising the tip of a hook in that way – I love it! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Love reading everything you write! Your writing on crochet hooks is the best I’ve read! I only have one thing to add- Tulip hooks! I used Clover Amour until I got my hands on the Tulip Etimos, never looked back! They’re a little pricey but totally worth it, especially after you’ve had surgeries on both hands (Thumb joints and trigger fingers on both sides). Money tends to not be so important when your hands need extra care to continue to crochet, (I’m addicted)! Try them and see how they work for you. Love to read all of your stuff and have to tell you that my favorite grandma was named Dora! It’s a great name only very special people are given!!! Oh!, almost forgot, I like the Hamanaka hooks too.
Thanks so much for the lovely comment. I have heard good things about the Tulip hooks but have never seen them to buy in the UK. I’ll certainly keep my eyes peeled though as I’m always up for trying new hooks. It’s good to change up those hand movements – so important to look after our hands and wrists!
So, I am a true pencil grip and I have been unsuccessful at changing my grip to anything else and it just works for me. My favorite hooks are also the Clover Amour and feel as if I am naturally holding a pencil. They are so smooth with the many different yarn thicknesses and textures I use and recommend them to anyone with a pencil grip as well. The only downside for me having a pencil grip is that it is sooooo much harder to tunisian crochet because my hand placement prevents the stitches from moving down the hook as I work further into a row. It was at this point in time where I tried to figure out how to hold my hook with a knife grip but have been unsuccessful. For others who have a pencil grip, this may also happen to you too but it’s okay. Just keep practicing.
Thanks for sharing. That’s so interesting about the challenges with Tunisian. It’s so hard to change you’re grip when you’re used to one hold. Like trying to write with the wrong hand!
Very interesting! I’ve recently taken up making filet lace again and was struggling with my cheap 1mm steel crochet hook from Walmart, kept losing stitches or snagging or was hard to push through unless I kept my tension too loose. At first I thought it was just lack of practice, but I was still struggling on my third piece of lace. I’m a British ex-pat and so I went searching in the basement for my 40+ year-old English crochet hooks…and what a difference! My English hooks are slightly more pointy at the point and have a slightly sharper lip…looks to be inline style, but it’s hard to tell with the teensy tiny hooks. Having had just very basic knowledge passed down to me, being taught by my Grandma, I never knew there were different styles. Now I have to get to grips with having half my pattern books in UK terminology and the other half with USA instructions! Gah!
There are so many different approaches to the same thing! I can well imagine that a pointy crochet hook works better for crocheting with thread. I salute your for your patience, filet crochet lace is quite an art!
I have been crocheting for more than 55 years. I use more of an over handed, kid using a spoon grip. I have always felt like my speed and accuracy with that more than makes up for it being “wrong.” I have yet to find a contour handle that feels right with my grip. I love in line heads and seldom even use the few others that I have. I always thought it was just me with my unconventional hold, and it wasn’t until a few years ago that I learned there really was a difference! Now I know what brand I like, and it helps.
I guess it all depends on how we learn. My dad grew up in a house of women and watched them crochet, so he was the one who got me started! I don’t recall how his mother held the needle, but sure wish I could!
I love that. It really is a unique craft and there is no wrong or right way to hold a crochet hook, so long as you achieve the thing you’re trying to achieve! Thanks for sharing! 😊
I, like you, choose several different makes of hook I like Amour and Knitpro but my favourite to use is the soft touch but the colours offends me, such a dreary boring shade so once again the question is comfort or beauty I seem to have lived with this choice in many things through my life especially shoes. I enjoy your newsletters and as someone else commented you cover subjects that are important to crochet but we rarely think about. Than you!
Haha. This made me laugh! How amazing would it be if clover did some limited edition colours for the soft touch! I think the older I get, the more I prefer comfort. Though I still adore all my beautiful high heels I hardly ever wear anymore! I’m so glad you enjoy the WiP Tip!
No, nothing to do with direction, Michelle. But I’ve just found the term: CHAINETTE !!!
Yarns that aren’t twisted but .. but .. but .. I CAN’T FIND THE RIGHT WORD, dammit !
Still, you know what I mean. 🙂
I think I know what you mean. The yarn itself is almost knitted or woven? I saw a lion brand yarn like this recently. I think it may have been feels like butta but don’t quote me on that!
I’m willing to give ANY chainette yarn a go because, as you so accurately describe, it’s as if woven and thus helps stop my weird yarn-over-right-hand’s-fingers from unwinding it.
That’s a great point! I used one of these for my happy days cardigan, though it has since been discontinued! I googled it and the yarn is hollow so it’s quite lightweight which is great for light and bouncy garments!
And there must be a problem with ’em, Michelle: lots have been discontinued. 🙁
I think it’s more that people aren’t sure what to do with them. Or maybe they come in and out of fashion??
I hope it’s the latter rather than the former, as they’re good to work with, I find.
Every week when I read your amazingly detailed and helpful article I think “Surely she’s run out of topics NOW ?!”
And you never do, Michelle: you never bloody do. 😀
This one can’t help me at all, as I crochet with the yarn around my right hand, using the hook like a single knitting-needle. Appallingly weird, but the muscle memory can’t be broken, unfortunately – I’ve taken lessons from at least three difference crochet teachers,all to no avail. Sighh ..
As to why I keep trying, it’s because the yarn going ’round fingers on my right hand causes endless twisting, and with some I have to stop and re-wind ! Thus am I perpetually looking for (forgotten the word, sorry !) that yarn that’s kind of linked rather than twisted ..
I love how much variation there is with hook grip. It’s so interesting!! I’ve seen videos of people hold their hook and yarn in the same hand and it’s mesmerising to watch!!
I don’t think there is good or bad, just getting the job done!
(Do you mean z twist?)