The Any Time Cardigan: Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

The yoke is worked in a similar way to how you would work a typical flat circle for the crown of a beanie hat, or something similar, only in rows, without joining at the end.

As you follow the instructions, you will also notice that each increase row you will alternate between starting the row with an increase and finishing the row with one. This is important to ensure that the front opening of the cardigan says symmetrical. If you started all increase rows with an increase then you would find one side looked quite different to the other!

Yoke

Row 1 (WS): make 50(55, 55, 60, 60, 65, 65)fsc

Row 2 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), *1esc in next 4 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 60(66, 66, 72, 72, 78, 78) sts

Row 3: Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, turn

Row 4: Ch1, * 2esc in next st, 1esc in next 5 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 70(77, 77, 84, 84, 91, 91) sts

Row 5: As Row 3

Row 6: Ch1, *1esc in next 6 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 80(88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 104) sts

Row 7: As Row 3

Row 8: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 7 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 90(99, 99, 108, 108, 117, 117) sts

Row 9: As Row 3

Row 10: Ch1, *1esc in next 8 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 100(110, 110, 120, 120, 130, 130) sts

Row 11: As Row 3

Row 12: Ch1, *2 esc in next st, 1esc in next 9 std; rep from * to end, turn. 110(121, 121, 132, 132, 143, 143) sts

Row 13: As Row 3

Row 14: Ch1, *1esc in next 10 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 120(132, 132, 144, 144, 156, 156) sts

Row 15: As Row 3

Row 16: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 11 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 130(143, 143, 156, 156, 169, 169) sts

Row 17: As Row 3

Row 18: Ch1, *1esc in next 12 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 140(154, 154, 168, 168, 182, 182) sts

Row 19: As Row 3

Row 20: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 13 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 150(165, 165, 180, 180, 195, 195) sts

Row 21: As Row 3

Row 22: Ch1, *1esc in next 14 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 160(176, 176, 192, 192, 208, 208) sts

Row 23: As Row 3

Row 24: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 15 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 170(187, 187, 204, 204, 221, 221) sts

Row 25: As Row 3

Row 26: Ch1, *1esc in next 16 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 180(198, 198, 216, 216, 234, 234) sts

Row 27: As Row 3

Row 28: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 17 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 190(209, 209, 228, 228, 247, 247) sts

Row 29: As Row 3

For Size XS Only

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size S Only

Row 30: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size M Only

Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 220 sts

Rows 31-32: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size L Only

Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 240 sts

Rows 31 – 33: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size 1X Only

Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 240 sts

Row 31: As Row 3

Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 252 sts

Row 33:  As Row 3

Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 264 sts

Row 35: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size 2X Only

Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 260 sts

Row 31: As Row 3

Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 273 sts

Row 33:  As Row 3

Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 286 sts

Rows 35 – 37: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

For Size 3X Only

Row 30: Ch1, *1esc in next 18 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 260 sts

Row 31: As Row 3

Row 32: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 19 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 273 sts

Row 33:  As Row 3

Row 34: Ch1, *1esc in next 20 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 286 sts

Row 35: As Row 3

Row 36: Ch1, *2esc in next st, 1esc in next 21 sts; rep from * to end, turn. 299 sts

Row 37: As Row 3

Row 38: Ch1, *1esc in next 22 sts, 2esc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 312 sts

Rows 39 – 40: As Row 3

Continue to splitting the yoke

Splitting the yoke

Next, and without fastening off, you will split the yoke to create the body and arm holes. 

To do this, you crochet along the front section of the yoke as instructed, make a chain for the underarm, skip the given number of stitches, which will become the armhole, crochet across the back, make a second underarm chain and skip the same number of stitches for the second armhole and finish by crocheting across the other side of the front to the end.

Once the yoke is split, you will then continue to work the body of your cardigan in rows.

Note that there is no RS or WS until you split the yoke, so I recommend you allocate the one you prefer and add a stitch marker to it. I have allocated the first body and sleeve rounds as RS Rows.

The WS and RS do matter when working the hem, cuffs and button band so what’s important is that you’re consistent.

After the last row of the yoke, you should have 190(209, 220, 240, 264, 286, 312) sts

Continuing from the last yoke row;

Yoke split Row (RS): Ch1, 1esc in next 26(29, 31, 35, 40, 42, 46) sts, ch8(10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19), sk 40(43, 44, 46, 51, 56, 62) sts for the arm hole, 1esc in next 58(65, 70, 78, 82, 90, 96) sts, ch8(10, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19), sk 40(43, 44, 46, 51, 56, 62) sts for the other arm hole, 1esc in each st to end, turn. 126(143, 158, 176, 192, 208, 226) sts (including ch)

You should have 48(53, 57, 60, 66, 73, 81) sts for each of the arm holes, including the underarm chains. I recommend checking this now as once you have finished the body, you won’t be able to adjust this without frogging it!

I also recommend trying on your cardigan at this stage to check you are happy with how it fits around your chest and arms.

If the yoke is too short you can add some non-increase rows (Row 3 repeats) or remove them if it’s too long. 

You can also alter the number of underarm chains used when you split the yoke. But do bear in mind, this will impact both the fit on the chest and the stitch count around the arms.

Body

Body Row 1 (WS): Ch1, 1esc in each st and ch to end, turn. 126(143, 158, 174, 190, 204, 220) sts

Body Row 2: Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, turn

Body Rows 3 – 36(36, 34, 34, 32, 32, 30): As Body Row 2

Do not fasten off, continue to hem

At this stage, you should have 65(66, 66, 67, 67, 69, 69) rows in total for the yoke and body. 

For a longer body, add more repeats of Body Row 2 until the cardigan reaches your desired length. For a more cropped cardigan, work fewer body rows

Hem

The hem works with slip stitches so you may wish to go up to a 4.5 or 5mm crochet hook to work the hem. This will stop any gathering. If you want to allow the hem to pull in the base of the cardigan then you can stick with a 4mm. 

Check you are happy with your tension as you work.

With WS facing, continue from the last row of the body (your stitch count will remain unchanged);

Row 1 (WS): Ch1, ss in FLO of each st to end, turn

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss to end, turn

Row 3: Ch1, ss in FLO of each st to end

Fasten off

Sleeves and Cuffs

Next you will create the sleeves, which are worked in rounds. At the end of each round, you will slip stitch to the top of the first stitch and turn to start the next round.

Remember that the Ch1 used to start each round does not count as a stitch so make sure you ignore it!

You will work the first sleeve round into the yoke split row and underarm chain. Then you’ll make a 1 stitch decrease every 2 rounds until you reach the narrowest point (the cuff measurement) and work the remainder of the rounds without decreasing. In a similar approach to the yoke, you will alternate the decrease between near the beginning and end of the round. This ensures you will get a nice neat underarm seam.

Tip for working sleeves without gaps at the underarm:

On the first round of the sleeves, you will work an esc into each stitch on the armhole and the back of each of the underarm chains made when you split the yoke.

It can be quite easy to pick up extra stitches here. This is because the edges of the stitches made just before and after the underarm chain in the Body Set-up Row can look like additional stitches. When you skip these, it can create a gap at the underarm, so the natural tendency is to work into them increasing your stitch count. 

In order to avoid these gaps without altering your stitch count, you can use a simple technique:

On the first round of the sleeve, when working into the last of the underarm chains, make an esc2tog, working both into the last underarm chain and the side of that pesky stitch from the Yoke Split Row. 

When you have worked round the sleeve, you will repeat this on the other side of the underarm chain, working the esc2tog into the side of the stitch and the chain.

This post explains this technique in more detail (with photo guides).

Sleeves

Repeat on both sides

Join your yarn in the centre of the underarm chain and, making sure you are working in the opposite direction to the last yoke round;

Round 1 (RS): Ch1, 1esc in each ch and st round to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 48(53, 57, 60, 66, 73, 81) sts

Round 2 (dec): Ch1, 1esc in first st, esc2tog, 1esc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 47(52, 56, 59, 65, 72, 80) sts

Round 3: Ch1, 1esc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 4 (dec): Ch1, 1esc in each st to 3 from end, esc2tog, 1esc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn. 46(51, 55, 58, 64, 71, 79) sts

Round 5: As Round 3

Round 6 (dec): As Round 2

Rounds 7 – 36(40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40): Rep Rounds 3 – 6, ending on a decrease round. 30(33, 37, 40, 46, 53, 61) sts

Work 19(17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 19) more rounds as Round 3, giving a total of 55(57, 57, 59, 59, 59, 59) rounds

Do not fasten off, continue to Cuff

You can work fewer or more rounds to change the length of the sleeve as desired.

The sleeves are intended to be close fitting, but if you want a looser fitting sleeve at the forearm and wrist, you can stop decreasing sooner.

Cuff

Continuing from last round of the sleeve (your stitch count will remain unchanged);

Round 1 (WS): Ch1, ss in FLO of each st around, ss to top of first ss, turn

Round 2: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each ss around, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 3: Ch1, ss in FLO of each st around, ss to top of first ss

Fasten off and sew tail to first ss to complete the cuff

Button band and finishing

To finish you will create the button band for your cardigan, block it and weave in all those ends.

Adding buttons is optional, and if you choose not to, you can just skip the buttonhole row, replacing it with a row of single crochet.

Button band

As with the hem, monitor your progress on the button band to ensure you achieve an even tension and do not get any gathering up the front.

You will start by working a row of slip stitches into the row-ends (including the row-ends of the hem). This is what will set the tension for the rest of the button band. I recommend working 5 slip stitches into every 4 row-ends to achieve a band which lies flush with the front of the cardigan. However, you can adjust this to suit your crochet style. This is why you will not see a stitch count in this section.

Once again, you may wish to go up a hook size when working slip stitch rows to ensure you maintain an even tension.

First side – Button band

With the RS facing, join your yarn to the front of the cardigan on the side you wish to add the buttons. This may be at the top or the bottom of the front opening, depending on your preference and handedness.

Row 1 (RS): Ch1, evenly ss into the row-ends along the front opening, turn

Row 2 (WS): Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each ss to end, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in FLO each ss to end, turn

Row 4: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn

Rows 5 – 6: As Row 4

Row 7: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn

Row 8: Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each st to end

Fasten off

Second Side – Buttonhole band

Decide where you would like to place your buttons / buttonholes and add a stitch marker to the unworked side of the front opening to indicate where the buttonholes should be placed. Move these markers up as you work.

With RS facing, join your yarn to the front of the cardigan opening, again, this may be at the top or the bottom depending on which side you worked first;

Row 1 (RS): Ch1, evenly ss into the row-ends along the front opening, turn

Row 2 (WS): Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each ss to end, turn

Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in FLO each ss to end, turn

Row 4 – Buttonhole Row: Ch1, *1sc in each st to buttonhole marker, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1sc in next st; rep from * to last button hole marker and make 1sc into each of the remaining sts to end, turn

Depending on the size of your buttons, you may wish to chain and skip more or fewer stitches. At this point, check that your buttons just fit through the hole you created. There should be just enough space for the buttons so that they remain fastened. If there is too much space, I recommend reducing the size of the buttonhole so your buttons don’t pop open when worn.

As you work the buttonholes, you may find it useful to transfer your markers to the corresponding stitch on the opposite button band to mark where the buttons will be attached. Leave these markers in place whilst blocking (and block before attaching buttons).

Row 5: Ch1, 1sc in each st and ch to end, turn

Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn

Row 7: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, turn

Row 8: Ch1, 1ss in FLO of each st to end

Fasten off

Finishing

I recommend wet or steam blocking your cardigan to get the best out of it. This will flatten out any curl you may find on the button band.

You can learn more about blocking, including how to do it, here.

Checking that the button markers are still aligned with the button holes after blocking,  sew on your buttons. 

Weave in all ends to finish.