The Leap Year Infinity Scarf – Free Crochet Pattern

Infinity scarves are awesome. For one thing, they don’t fall off like traditional scarves do sometimes.

You can wear them as a single loop, or wrap them double to keep your neck and ears super cosy. This makes them extra versatile for different weather conditions.

The Leap Yearn Infinity scarf, is so named because of the way the stitches leap over each other. It’s also in tribute to the extra day we have this February. My nephew is a leap year baby so it’s a bit of a special one – this year he turns 12 and gets his 4th ‘proper’ birthday!)

This pattern is great for stash busting because, although I have used repeating colour changes in the version you see here, you can work it in any colour combinations you choose!

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Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers at the end of a round indicate the number of stitches in that round – for this pattern, the stitch count remains constant throughout
• Starting chains do not count as stitches
• Do not turn at the end of your round
• When joining rounds, slip stitch into the top of the first stitch, do not crochet into the slip stitch when you come to the end of the round
• The first stitch of each round is worked in the top of the first stitch from the previous round
• Instructions written after * asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Unless otherwise indicated, stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• The main pattern gives you instructions to work the infinity scarf – suggestions for general adjustments and instructions to make the snood / cowl are included after the main pattern

Construction

• The infinity scarf is worked in joined rounds, without turning
• You can increase the length of the scarf by increasing the length of the starting round, by a multiple of 4 stitches Learn about stitch multiples here
• You can increase the depth of the scarf by working more rounds

Skills Needed

This is a fairly simple pattern with a few interesting, fun techniques that you may not have tried before. It requires:

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• Working in joined rounds (without turning)
• Changing colours
• Chainless foundation rows – learn about chainless foundation rows here.
• Working into rounds below the previous round / missing rounds

Materials

Crochet Hook

4mm crochet hook or size needed to match tension

I used my clover amour hook.

Yarn used

Yarn used for infinity scarf: Approximately 450 – 500m (495-550yd), 200g of dk weight yarn

Item pictured uses Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton, 50g balls, 125m/137yds)

• 1 x Colour A: Bubblegum Pink
• 1 x Colour B: Champagne White
• 1 x Colour C: Washed Teal
• 1 x Colour D: Marine Blue
• 1 x Colour E: Kingfisher Blue

I used about 40g of each colour (a little more of A and less of E)

Note that colour E in the item pictured is Scheepjes Linen Soft in shade 607 because I had a small amount in my stash I wanted to use. I have recommended the closest Paintbox shade in the materials section.

Yarn used for snood: For the snood pictured above, I used one skein of each of:

Qing fibre Dashing DK, 100% ultra fine South African superwash merino, 100g = 225m, shade: Mars

Vicki Brown Designs, Hand Dyed DK yarn, 100% superwash merino, 100g = 225m, shade: yarnicorn (this is the cream speckled yarn you see used)

Substitution Options

This pattern works with pretty much any yarn weight with some simple modifications: Alter your hook size to suit your yarn weight and change the length of your foundation round and the number of rounds to achieve your desired size (see guidance below on adjusting the size).

This is a great pattern for stash busting and using up leftovers as each stripe only requires a small amount of yarn.

You may find this post useful in choosing a substitute yarn.

Other Materials & Notions: 

Tape measure, yarn needle & scissors

I recommend blocking this project to get the most from the stitch pattern, in which case I suggest a blocking matt and pins. 

Learn more about blocking here.

Measurements & Finished Size

The finished scarf measures approximately 120cm in circumference and 21cm wide.

The snood / cowl measures 64cm in circumference and 40cm deep

Guidance on size adjustments

I like my infinity scarves snug when they are wrapped double round my neck but you may prefer yours looser – it’s vital for safety and comfort that it’s not too tight. 

If you would like to make a longer scarf simply add a multiple of 4 stitches to the foundation row until it reaches your preferred size. Note that I find foundation rows often shrink down after a couple of rounds are worked into them so do check your length again after a few rounds. 

It is important that the scarf is not too tight and is comfortable to wear.

The more rounds you add, the longer your scarf needs to be to accommodate the width when you double it around your neck; i.e., adding rounds will shorten the circumference of the infinity scarf when worn.

If you prefer to work this pattern as a cowl you can reduce the number of stitches in your foundation round and increase the number of rounds worked accordingly. After the main pattern I have included the specific adjustments used for the snood / cowl you see pictured.

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• dc = double crochet (UK treble)
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – see special stitches
• long dc = long double crochet (UK long treble) – see special stitches
• long sc = long single crochet  (UK long double )- see special stitches
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• sk = skip (UK miss)
• sp = space
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Learn how to work the chainless foundation single crochet here.

I have chosen to use the foundation single crochet stitch in this pattern because it allows more stretch than a traditional chain.

Long Stitches / Spiked Stitches (long dc and long sc)

In this pattern, you will need to work some stitches (mostly double crochets) into stitches in the round below the previous round. These are called long or spiked stitches.

Long stitches are worked the same as the traditional stitch but because they skip a round, when you first insert your hook and pull your yarn through, you’ll pull up a longer loop so that your hook reaches the same height as the current round you’re working on.

Gauge

16 sts and 12 rows in 10cm of the stitch pattern (see below) using a 4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

The stitch pattern is a simplified version of Larks Foot Stitch. When swatching, work Rounds 1 – 4 of the pattern (using a multiple of 4 sts for your foundation round) then repeat Rounds 3 and 4 until your swatch reaches size.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. 

Colourwork

I advise changing colours by using the new colour for the pull through on the slip stitch you use to join the previous round.

I also suggest carrying the yarn up the joins rather than fastening off, but this is down to your preference.

My tip for hiding carried colours is to wrap the carried colour from front to back just before you yarn over to make the turning chain (and for each chain if you’re working more than one) – this kind of hides it in the chain and avoids floats.

Remember you can download an ad-free PDF version of this pattern from Love Crafts Crochet, Ravelry or Etsy.

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The Leap Yarn Infinity Scarf Pattern

Using a 4mm hook and A;

Round 1 (RS): Make 192fsc, then, without twisting, ss to top of first st to make a long loop, do not turn. 192 sts

Make sure you can get your loop twisted twice round your head with plenty of room to spare (the infinity scarf will get tighter as you work more rounds)

Round 2: Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), *1dc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st

Change to B

Round 3: Ch2, *1dc, 1 long dc in st below ch1-sp from previous round, 1dc in next dc, ch1, sk 1 st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st

Change to C

Round 4: Ch2, *1dc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1dc, 1 long dc in st below ch1-sp from previous rnd; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st

Change to D

Round 5: as Round 3

Change to E

Round 6: As Round 4

Change to D

Round 7: As Round 3

Change to C

Round 8: As Round 4

Change to B

Round 9: As Round 3

Change to A

Round 10: As Round 4

Change to B

Rounds 11 – 26: Repeat Rounds 3 -10 twice

Continuing in A

Round 27 (final round): Ch1, *1sc (does not count as a st), 1 long sc in st below ch-1 sp, 1sc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st

Fasten off, sew in ends

Adjustments for snood

For the snood, change colour every 3 rounds.

For Round 1, work 108 fsc to start and join with a ss without twisting. (The stitch count remains the same throughout.)

Rep Round 2 as in pattern.

Rep Rounds 3 and 4 until you reach 47 rounds.

Work the Final round as in the pattern, giving you a total of 48 rows.

Fasten off, block to size and shape and sew in ends

What I call a snood is essentially a long cowl which will fit over the top of my head or sit folded around my neck. The images below give you an idea of how these two functions work (the silly expression on my face is of course optional!)