Stashbusting Beanie Hat and Scarf Pattern

After creating my waste not want not stashbusting crochet sweater, I kinda fell in love with working with multiple strands of neutrals mixed with colours as a way to stashbust odds and ends of left over yarn.

So, using the same stitch and technique, I decided to make a super cosy beanie hat and scarf to match the sweater. You can find the free crochet pattern for each of these below.

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I go into a lot of detail about working with multiple strands and how I approached colour changes in the waste not want not sweater pattern. I have included the a summary in the pattern notes below, but recommend reviewing the sweater pattern notes for a more in depth explanation, should you want one.

Materials

Crochet hooks

For the hat I used a 12mm clover amour crochet hook, switching to a 6mm crochet hook for the brim.

Foe the scarf, I upsized to a 15mm crochet hook and used a smaller hook for the tassels (I think it was a 5mm but it doesn’t really matter).

Generally larger hooks of 12mm or 15mm tend to be plastic or wood as they are much lighter.

Yarn

Throughout both the hat and scarf, I worked holding together 5 strands of different weight yarns. This included a mixture of 4ply / fingering weight, double knit and aran / heavy worsted weight yarn. (learn more about yarn weights here)

To create the marled colourway, the 5 strands were made up of 3 strands of cream / off-white yarn leftovers with 2 strands of scraps of contrasting colours.

The waste not want not sweater post talks in more detail about how to choose and change your yarn. Note that I did not use the laceweight mohair in the crochet accessories as I did in the sweater.

It’s hard to give an approximate meterage given I was working with multi strands of all different weights. However, as a guide to yarn quantity, the finished adult sized hat weighed 130g and the scarf weight 480g (including the tassels) because I went big – I basically kept going until I had used up all my cream!

For the brim of the hat I used one strand of Cascade ecological wool, a chunky weight yarn.

You’ll also need a yarn needle and scissors to trim your knots and sew in your ends.

Gauge

Gauge for the hat

Given that you’re using such a mix of yarns, the gauge will most likely vary throughout your project. Mine varied by a stitch and row either way, when measured in multiple areas, but the average gauge was as follows (in US crochet terms):

8.5 stitches and 8 rows of single crochet worked in the front loop only using a 12mm crochet hook.

You can make up for this variation in gauge by ensuring the ribbing in the brim is tight enough to ensure the beanie stays on your head (without being uncomfortable!).

Gauge for ribbing

For the ribbing, I moved down to a 6mm hook and worked with a single strand of heavy aran / chunky yarn (see materials). The gauge was as follows;

16 stitches and 11 rows of hdc worked in the front 3rd loop (see special stitches) using a 6mm crochet hook

Gauge for the scarf

The gauge for the scarf is less important as you can just eyeball the width and keep working rows until it’s as long as you wanted. but for reference it is as follows;

7 stitches and 6 rows of single crochet worked in the front loop only using a 15mm crochet hook.

Skill Level

The hat itself is a simple pattern using single crochet, half double crochet, working in rounds and rows, in the front loop and front third loop only. The pattern starts with a magic ring.

This post on the anatomy of a crochet stitch will help you identify the front loops.

The scarf is simple worked in rows. I include instructions on how to add the fringe at the end too.

The trickiest part is really learning to work with the multi strands. I recommend getting familiar with the magic knot in order to join new yarn without needing to weave in ends.

Finished Measurements

Hat sizing

The hat pattern is written in one size to suit an average size adult head. The brim (worked with a single strand) measures 48cm in circumference, which is a few cm smaller than the body of the hat at the base (which measures 50cm).

The hat measures 23cm in height from the bottom of the brim (which measures 4.5cm) to the top of the crown.

To change the size, you can stop increasing the crown sooner, remembering that hats should be made with negative ease.

This post goes into detail about crochet hat sizing. It will give you guidance on how many stitches you need in the crown to achieve your desired size, based on your gauge.

To change the length you can add or remove rounds on the body of the hat before you add the brim.

Note that the picture of me holding the hat whilst also wearing the waste not want not sweater (just after the end of the hat pattern) is 2.5cm longer than the hat you see in the rest of the images, and described in the pattern.

I decided the original version was a little too tall for me, so unpicked the brim and removed 2 rounds from the body of the hat.

I used the yarn I frogged to start the matching scarf… because I couldn’t stop stash busting!!

Scarf size

The scarf measures 24cm wide and is 180cm long excluding the tassels. The tassels add another 8cm at each end.

To change the width of the scarf, add or remove stitches. To change the length, add or remove rows.

Pattern Notes

• Please read all the pattern notes before starting your project
• Pattern notes apply to both the hat and scarf patterns
• This pattern uses US crochet terms – UK equivalents given in brackets in the abbreviations list
• For the hat, join to the top of the first stitch with a slip stitch at the end of each round and turn to start the next round
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• The first stitch of each row / round should be made in the last stitch of the previous row / round – be careful not to work into the slip stitch used to join rounds
• Stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• The hat is made in rounds from the crown down and a ribbed brim is added to finish
• There is no wrong or right side until you add the brim (and even then there isn’t much in it, so choose the side you prefer to face outwards!)
• The scarf is made in rows from the short side and crocheted until the desired length is achieved

Stitches and Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• FLO = front loop only
• MR = magic ring (tutorial here)
• hdc = half double crochet
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• ss = slip stitch
• WS = wrong side

Front 3rd loop:

For this project I worked my ribbing using half double crochets (UK half treble) working into the ‘front 3rd loop.’

The front 3rd loop can be found by looking at the front of the row you’re about to work into and you will notice that just below the top two loops you usually work into, there is a horizontal bar. This is the front 3rd loop. (See the waste not want not sweater pattern details for a fuller description and image of this front 3rd loop if you struggle to find it.)

You can also find a close up image of the front 3rd loop on my article on detailed crochet stitch anatomy and a photo tutorial of how this stitch works in my deep dive on crochet rib stitches (includes video tutorial)

Waste not want not beanie hat pattern

Using 5 strands of mixed weight yarn held together (see materials), and a 12mm crochet hook, make a magic ring;

Round 1 (RS): Ch1, make 6sc in MR, ss to top of first st, turn. 6 sts

Pull magic ring closed

Round 2: Ch1, 2sc in FLO of each st around, ss to top of first st, turn. 12 sts

Round 3: Ch1, *1sc in FLO of next st, 2sc in FLO of next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 18 sts

Round 4: Ch1, *1sc in FLO of next 2 sts, 2sc in FLO of next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 24 sts

Round 5: Ch1, *1sc in FLO of next 3 sts, 2sc in FLO of next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 30 sts

Round 6: Ch1, *1sc in FLO of next 4 sts, 2sc in FLO of next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 36 sts

Round 7: Ch1, *1sc in FLO of next 8 sts, 2sc in FLO of next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 40 sts

Round 8: Ch1, 1sc in FLO of each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 9 – 15: As Round 8

You can repeat Round 8 until your hat reaches its desired length (allowing 5cm for the brim).

Fasten off and proceed to brim

Brim

For the brim I switched to working with 1 strand of chunky yarn and a 6mm crochet hook.

With WS facing, join the yarn you’re using for the brim to the ss in which you fastened off;

Round 1 (WS): Ch1, starting in the first st, *1sc in next st, 2sc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last st, 1sc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn. 66 sts 

Note that on Round 1 you may wish to alter the cadence of the single crochet worked into the last round of the body of the beanie. This is one of the places you can make an alteration to adjust the tension to suit your project. I have described the tension I used in the hat pictured (after trying several variations!) and it worked for me, but you may wish to experiment.

You will now switch to working in rows at right angles to the base of the beanie.

Row 1 (RS): Ch8, 1hdc in second ch from hook and each of next 6 ch, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 7 hdc, 3 ss

Row 2: Without chaining, sk 3 ss, 1hdc in 3rd front loop (see special sts) of next 6 hdc, 1hdc through both loops of the last hdc, turn. 7 hdc

Row 3: Ch1, 1hdc in the 3rd front loop of each of the next 7 hdc, ss into the next 2 sts on Round 1. 7 hdc, 2 ss

Row 4: Without chaining, sk 2 ss, 1hdc in 3rd front loop (see special sts) of next 6 hdc, 1hdc through both loops of the last hdc, turn. 7 hdc

Row 5: Ch1, 1hdc in the 3rd front loop of each of the next 7 hdc, ss into the next 3 sts on Round 1. 7 hdc, 3 ss

Repeat Rows 2 -5 around the hat, finishing on a RS row, turn

Note that you can alter the number of Round 1 sc you slip stitch into in this ribbing section to alter the tension. This is your second opportunity to alter the tension to suit.

Adjusting tension is discussed in more detail in the waste not want not sweater pattern and in the video tutorial in the neckline section where the number of slip stitches are altered to achieve the ‘right’ tension.

Joining Row (WS): Ch1, ss into the front 3rd loop and corresponding st on the starting chain across all 7 sts.

Fasten off and weave in ends

Enjoy turning your scraps into one of the cosiest hats you’ll ever wear!

Waste not want not scarf pattern

Using a 15mm hook and your 5 strands held together;

Row 1: Ch18, 1sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end, turn. 17 sts

Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 1sc in FLO of each st to last st, 1sc through both loops of last st, turn

Rows 3 – 102 (or until desired length reached): Repeat Row 2

Row 103: Ch1, 1ss in the top of each st to end

Fasten off

Adding the fringe (optional)

Chop around 70 lengths of yarn of of the same length, each measuring about 18cm.

I used the cascade eco yarn which matches the brim on the hat and the cuffs, neckline and hem on the sweater. This is how I created my lengths I used for the fringe: I wrapped my chosen yarn 70 times around a piece of card around 9cm wide, then snipped along one edge to create equal lengths.

You will add the fringe to the first and last row of the scarf, working into to the back of the starting chain on one end and to the slip stitch on the other.

I added 3 pieces of fringe to each stitch across the short ends; one in the front loop, one through both loops and one in the back loop to achieve the pictured effect.

To add the fringe;

Fold the yarn in half, insert a smaller crochet hook through the stitch you’re adding the fringe to and catch the folded loop of the yarn.

Pull the loop through the stitch then yarn over with the other two ends and pull them through the loop.

Pull the ends tight to secure your piece of fringe.

For shorter fringes, you may want to tie the two ends in a knot for additional security / to stop the fringe coming loose.

Repeat this across both ends of the scarf to finish your fringe and if needed, trim the ends.

And voila – get cosy with your scarf!

I would love to see all your scrappy hats and sweaters, so please do share on insta using #WasteNotWantNotCrochet or tag me @doraexplored

Happy Stashbusting!

Dx

More stashbusting crochet patterns

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