Stash to Treasure Batwing Crochet Sweater Pattern
Been wondering what crochet project you can make with all those bits of leftover yarn? 50m here, half a skein there?
Well wonder no more!
This pattern was designed to use up leftover cotton double knit yarn (dk yarn) especially to turn your stash into a treasure!!
If you are concerned about sustainable fashion, then a great place to start is with using the materials you already have. Learn more about how to shop your yarn stash here.
This pattern recommends using yarn leftovers and remnants, so no two versions will be the same.This is is a great opportunity to create a unique and individual garment knowing that you are making use of the things that you find.
(For those of a similar generation to me, think about what Wombles would do!)
Purchase the ad-free PDF version of this pattern from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy .
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Skills Used
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
- Half double crochet (UK half treble) and chains are used throughout
- Working in rows and rounds
- Working in the back loop only
- Changing colours
This is a simple batwing sweater made from two panels using a very simple stitch pattern so is a great beginners project.
The pattern is worked mostly with half double crochet (UK Half Treble) and chain stitches with some working in the back loop for the cuffs and hem.
Materials
Hook
4.5mm Crochet Hook or size needed to match gauge (Clover Amour are my all time favourites)
Yarn
Double Knit Cotton yarn. Mixed brands: Approx 450, 480, 510, 540, 600, 650, 680g depending on size chosen.
Other Materials / Notions
Yarn needle & scissors
You may wish to block this project, in which case I recommend a blocking matt and pins. Learn more about blocking here.
Yarn Substitution Options
As this pattern is designed for stashbusting, pretty much any dk yarn can be used which meets gauge, though the fibre choice will have an impact on the drape, stitch definition, stretch and the finished appearance.
You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.
The item you see used a mixture of brands of DK cotton yarn (mostly Paintbox DK Cotton)but the project would also work with other fibres or a mix of both. The finished sweater is oversized so there is some flexibility with gauge to allow for mixing up your yarn!
How to purchase a Dora Does crochet pattern:
I sell my PDF crochet patterns in my Etsy, Ravelry and Love Crafts stores. You can purchase this pattern on any of these platforms, depending on your preference. Simply click the relevant links throughout this pattern page to be taken to the listing, or visit the store homepages in the links at the start of this paragraph.
Pattern Notes
General Notes
- Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
- This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
- Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Chain 1 spaces are included in the stitch count
- Chain 3 at the beginning of a row counts as 1 half double crochet and chain 1
- Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated
- Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
Construction
- The pattern is worked from the bottom up in 2 panels
- There is no right or wrong side until you begin joining the panels
- The panels are seamed up the sides and across the shoulders
- A ribbed hem and cuffs are added
- A trim is added to the neckline to finish
Colourwork
- As this is a stash-busting pattern, designed with the aim of using up your leftovers, I have not added any specific instructions regarding colour work
- I worked several rows in white yarn to start the sweater then used up all my ends just changing colour when I ran out and finished with another block of white at the top of each panel (I had a lot of white cotton to use up)
- You can get creative with colours in any way that works for you
- If you’re not a huge fan of sewing in ends then you might want to try using the magic knot technique to change colour. You can find a short video tutorial for the Magic Knot which is on the resources section of this site.
Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms
(UK equivalent in brackets)
- blo = back loop only
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double) – learn about foundation rows here
- inc = increase (used to denote increase row)
- patt = pattern
- patt rep = pattern repeat
- rep = repeat
- rs = right side
- sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
- sk = skip (UK miss)
- sp = space
- ss = slip stitch (UK sl st)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- ws = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Gauge
21 stitches and 12 rows (unblocked) in 10cm of pattern repeat using a 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Pattern Repeat for Gauge Swatch
The pattern used throughout the sweater is a moss stitch (sometimes also known as linen stitch) worked in half double crochet (UK half treble).
Work an odd number of chains for your foundation row;
Row 1: Ch3 (counts as 1hdc, ch1), sk st at base of ch and next st, 1hdc in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st; rep from * to end, turn
Row 2: Ch3, 1hdc in first ch1-sp, *ch1, 1hdc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to end, turn
Rep Row 2 for pattern.
Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here
Measurements & Finished Size
The pattern is written in 7 adult women’s sizes XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X to fit bust 76m 86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136cm respectively.
The approximate finished waist measurement of each size is as follows; 81, 88, 96, 107, 117, 127, 136cm. This waist measurement is the circumference of the waist before the hem is added and measures . The hem will pull the waist a little tighter to give the sweater shape at the bottom.
The length of the sweater measures 47, 48, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52cm
This sweater is batwing style, so is designed to be loose fitting over the body.
The sweater pictured is made in size S, worn by me, UK size 8-10 (US 4-6), 5ft 1in.
Given you will be working with different yarn there may be some variation in finished size
If you are between sizes, I recommend sizing down as crochet stretches with wear and the measurements are unblocked
Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes in brackets, i.e., XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) sts or Rows / Rounds.
A PDF version of the pattern is available to purchase from Ravelry, Love Crafts or Etsy
The Stash to Treasure pattern
Body Panels
Make 2, both alike
Row 1: Work 85(91, 101, 111, 121, 131, 141)fsc
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1hdc, ch1) sk first 2 fsc, 1hdc in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st; rep from * to end, turn. 85(91, 101, 111, 121, 131, 141) sts
Row 3: Ch3, 1hdc in first ch1-sp, *ch1, 1hdc in next ch1-sp; rep from * to end (working the last hdc into the ch1-sp created by the starting ch3 on the previous row), turn
Row 4 (inc): Ch4 (counts as 1hdc, ch1 on inc rows), 1hdc into first st, *ch1, 1hdc into next ch1-sp; rep from * to end, ch1, 1hdc into 2nd ch of ch3, turn (4 st inc made). 89(95, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145) sts
Row 5 (inc): Ch4, 1hdc into first st, *ch1, 1hdc into next ch1-sp; rep from * to last ch1-sp, ch1, 1hdc into 3rd ch of ch4, turn (4 st inc made). 93(99, 109, 119, 129, 139, 149) sts
Rows 6 – 36(37, 37, 37, 38, 38, 38) (inc): As Row 5. 217(227, 237, 247, 261, 271, 281) sts
Rows 37(38, 38, 38, 39, 39, 39) – 51(52, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56): As Row 3.
Fasten off, block panels if required to accommodate different yarns
Sew in ends
Joining
- Join your two panels using yarn of the most appropriate colour
- Select your rs and ws at this point
- I like to use the mattress stitch for sewing seams
Sleeve / Shoulder Seams
You will create a small amount of neckline shaping when seaming the shoulders by adding a row of sc on the top outer edges of the front and back panels, working from the sleeve cuff towards the neckline. You will leave a section unworked in the centre of the panel which will form the neckline.
The rows of sc will then be sewn together to create a shoulder seam.
If you want a wider or narrower neckline, you can work fewer or more sc along the top of each body panel, ensuring you work the same number of stitches each side. Remember to allow for your neckline trim
When fastening off, you may wish to leave a long tail to sew the shoulder seams together.
Repeat on both panels
With ws facing, join yarn to the outer / cuff edge of the final row on the top of one panel; Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), work 77(82, 87, 92, 99, 104, 109) sc across, working 1sc into each hdc and ch1-sp.
Fasten off
With the same side facing, count back 77(82, 87, 92, 99, 104, 109) sts from the end of the final row and rejoin your yarn. Ch1, work 1sc into each hdc and ch-sp to the end of the panel.
Fasten off
This should leave you with an unworked neckline of around 30cm in length (see previous notes about altering the width of the neckline).
With the two panels still rs together (ws facing you), make the shoulder seams by sewing or slip stitching together the two rows of sc, matching stitch to stitch. Work from the outside / cuff edge of the top of the panel inwards.
Side Seams
Using your preferred joining method, sew together side seams from the bottom of body up the row-ends to the base of cuff. Make sure to keep an eye on your stitching tension so that you do not get any puckering when sewing your row ends together.
Hem
For all sizes, with rs facing, join your yarn to a side seam of the bottom of the sweater;
Round 1 (rs): Ch1, 1sc into the back of each fsc around the bottom of the sweater, join to top of first st with a ss
Continue, working in rows at right angles to Round 1
Row 1 (rs): Ch11, 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 9 ch, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss
Row 2: Sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of next 9 sts, 1hdc through both loops of last st, turn. 10 hdc
Row 3: Ch1, 1hdc in blo of next 10 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss
Rep Rows 2 and 3 all the way around the base of the sweater until you reach the start.
Note that on the last row repeat, you may need to ss into 2 or 4 sts (instead of 3) on Round 1 to work into all sts.
To join the sides of the hem, ss through the blo of the row you just worked and the ch made at the start of Row 1.
Fasten off, sew in ends.
Cuffs
For all sizes, with rs facing, join yarn to the underside of the cuff / end of side seam;
Round 1 (rs): Ch1, work a row of sc around the row ends of the sleeve, working approximately 2sc into each row end or at a cadence which suits your crochet style (work fewer sc if you want the cuff to be tighter), join to top of first st with a ss
Continue, working in rows at right angles to Round 1
Row 1 (rs): Ch11, 1hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 9 ch, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss
Row 2: Sk 3 ss, 1hdc in blo of next 9 sts, 1hdc through both loops of last st, turn. 10 hdc
Row 3: Ch1, 1hdc in blo of next 10 sts, ss into next 3 sts on Round 1, turn. 10 hdc, 3 ss
Rep Rows 2 and 3 around the whole cuff until you reach the start.
Note that on the last row rep, you may need to ss into 2 or 4 sts (instead of 3) on Round 1 to work into all sts.
To join the sides of the cuff, ss through the blo of the row you just worked and the starting chain made at the start of Row 1.
Fasten off, sew in ends
Neckline
For all sizes, with rs facing, join your chosen yarn to the shoulder seam;
Round 1 (rs): Ch1, 1sc in each st around neckline and shoulder seam row-ends, join to top of first st with ss, turn
Rounds 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn
Round 3: Rep Round 2
Fasten off and sew in all remaining ends
Enjoy your new treasure!
I hope you enjoy this pattern and, as always don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @doraexplored, or use #stashtotreasure. I’d love to see and share your efforts.
Happy hooking
Dx
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I have some batwing tops and I am large too. I have my flesh batwings to cover and these do the job AND I have had compliments on how good I look in them. I am surely going to make this sweater (as soon as I get SOME of my WIPs out of the way lol )
Haha. Thank you. I do love a good comfy batwing sweater too!
I’m wondering if a big old fart could WEAR a batwing sweater .. I mean, would the size of the (_|_) make one look terrible ?? Bighorse it strikes me that it ought be easy to measure said arse and start from there, no ?
But no point if the shape would look awful ..
Whaddya reckon, beautiful ?
I love a batwing sweater – and yes to starting with the hip measurement and working out! For me, they are all about the drape – if you’ve got good drape, you’ve got a good sweater! (Just be careful walking past door handles if you’re short like me… I always get caught on them!!
Oh Michelle – you did make me laugh !! 😀