Snowfall – Crochet slipper sock pattern

I’m happy to bring you these winter themed snowy slipper socks just in theme for the festive period.

The Snowfall Slippers are full of winter fun, so if you’re looking for a gift for that person who has everything then this could be your answer.

The slipper socks are worked top down (from cuff to toe) with an ‘afterthought heel’ (i.e. you leave a gap when making the sock and add the heel in at the end) and a snowball bobble feature on the ankle. 

This is a simple crochet slipper pattern so, if you’ve never made socks before but have some crochet experience then this could be the pattern to convert you.

This post talks about crochet sock construction if you want to get an idea of what’s involved.

Purchase the PDF pattern from Love Crafts, Ravelry or Etsy or read on for the free adult medium size pattern.

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Pattern Notes

General Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project This pattern uses US crochet terms (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list)
• Numbers at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Turning chains to not count as stitches
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be repeated the number of times indicated
• Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches
• ‘Work in patt’ means continue working in the stitch pattern outlined in the notes and in Round 2 of the ankle (marked as patt)

Construction

• These slipper socks are worked from the top down(from cuff to toe) in rounds
• They are intended as slipper socks only and not for use with footwear, boots or shoes
• You will turn at the end of each round
• This pattern uses the afterthought heel method
• All bobble stitches will be worked on wrong side rounds in a Contrasting Colour
• You might find it easier to work the ankle with the wrong side facing and the gusset and foot the right side out
• This post explains basic sock anatomy

Skills used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• Working in rows and rounds
• Working in the back and front loops
• Chainless foundation rows
• Simple decreases
• Using stitch markers 

The design uses an afterthought heel, which is a simple approach to heels that makes socks easier to mend!

Materials

Crochet Hook

4mm hook for the body of the sock and 3mm for the ribbed cuff, or as needed to obtain gauge. I used my clover amour hooks.

Yarn requirements

Made with DK sock yarn (wool or wool blend is recommended), these slipper socks crochet up relatively quickly (to reduce second sock syndrome!).

You’ll need from around 50 – 150g / 150-350m) of the main colour and about 20-40g / 40-80m of the contrasting colour (depending on the size you choose).

The socks you see here used  West Yorkshire Spinners, ColourLab for the main colour (MC) and Sirdar Snuggly Pearls DK in Cream for the contrast colour (CC).

For the medium adult size, described below, you will need around 150g of the main colour and around 30-40g of the contrast colour.

The body of the sock is worked with a 4mm hook and a 3mm hook is used for the cuff.

Note that if you want to be economical with your yarn you could work the cuffs and or heels in CC to achieve a more equal colour balance.

Substitution Options

Any similar  DK yarn which meets gauge and has a fibre blend suitable for making slipper socks will work for this pattern. I recommend something with some wool or animal fibre content (a blend is fine) because of the warmth and sweat wicking properties.

Sock yarn often blends wool with nylon because it makes it more durable and longer lasting so this would be a great option too. Because these are intended as slipper socks, I have gone with a 100% wool yarn as my main colour. 

Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result. You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

• Yarn needle & scissors, tape measure 
• Place Marker
• Some ’sock stop’ glue or anti-slip adhesive dots to the base of the slipper to avoid slipping

Sizing

The pattern is written in US terms in 6 shoe sizes from Toddler / Small child: EU 28-30, (UK 8-10J, US10-12) up to Large Adult EU43-45, (UK 10-12 and US (women’s) 12-14 ). 

Full size details for all sizes are given in the PDF pattern. The Adult medium size slipper sock is equivalent to a UK shoe size 7-9, EU shoe size 40-42 and US shoe size 9-11.

This is designed to fit foot length 25.5-27.5cm /10.2-11inches (with the finished foot length measuring 25cm / 10inches) and an ankle circumference of 29cm / 11.6inches.

You can learn more about sock and slipper sock sizing here.

I hope you enjoy making your crochet socks – and if they are a gift for the festive season, I would love to know how they are received!

If you have a question, feel free to pop it in the comments, the chances are that someone else does too, so lets make this a resource!

More festive crochet patterns

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• blo = back loop only
• bbl = bobble (cluster stitch version) – see special stitches
• ch = chain
• dec = decrease (denotes decrease round)
• flo = front loop only
• fsc = foundation single crochet
• patt = pattern
• PM = place marker
• rep = repeat
• rs = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (UK double crochet 2 together)
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• ws = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Bobble (bbl)

The bobble used in this pattern is a 5 double crochet cluster stitch, i.e. you will work a US double crochet 5 together in the same stitch as follows;

[Yo, insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 5 times (6 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 6 loops to complete stitch.

You can find a full written, photo and video tutorial for the cluster style crochet bobble stitch in this article.

These are designed as slipper socks. If you wear with shoes or boots, you may find the bobble stitches are uncomfortable against your ankle so I do not recommend that!

Colourwork:

All bobbles will be worked in the CC. 

You can either change your colour on the final pull through of the previous stitch (which is what I did) or start each bobble in a new colour. For this pattern either way works fine.

In terms of colour carriage:

• Fasten off your yarn between bobbles rather than carrying it through.
• Be careful not to leave knots which may be uncomfortable when worn against the ankle. 
• Do not carry your yarn behind / on the inside of the sock (if you try this you will run into a couple of problems – first, it might restrict the stretch you need to put your foot into the sock and second, your toes may get caught when putting the sock on if you use floats)

Pattern Repeat

The body of the sock is simply single crochets worked alternatively in the back loop then the front loop of consecutive stitches (with the bobbles placed throughout for the ankle section).

When you see “work in patt” or “continue in patt” this means you should continue to work this stitch pattern (sc in the blo then flo) until you are told otherwise.

You might find it useful to know that every round starts by working in the blo and finishes working in the flo, so as you count, odd number sts will be worked in the blo and even numbered sts are worked in the flo. I found this a helpful tool to keep me on track with the alternation!

Gauge

22 sts and 24 rows in 10cm of rows of single crochet worked alternatively in the back then front loop using a 4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

Variation in your gauge will lead to variations in the finished size of your project. 

Purchase the full PDF pattern from Love Crafts, Etsy or Ravelry.

The Snowfall Slipper Sock Crochet Pattern – Adult Medium

Make 2

Cuff

Using a 3mm hook and CC;

Row 1: Ch6, 1sc in second ch from the hook and each ch to end, turn. 5 sts

Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1sc in blo of each st to end, turn 

Rows 3- 54: As Row 2

Join the two short ends of the cuff by working 1ss through the blo of each st in the last row and the corresponding starting ch

Fasten off CC, turn your cuff 90 degrees to work the ankle

Ankle

Continuing from where you joined the cuff, join MC, with rs facing and using a 4mm hook;

Round 1 (RS): Ch1, work 2sc in alternate row ends around the cuff to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 54 sts

If you prefer you can work 1sc into each row end but I find the method above gives a neater finish.

Round 2 (patt): Ch1, *1sc in blo, 1sc in flo; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 3: As Round 2

You will now start adding the ‘snow’ bobbles

For the instructions below, work all bbl sts in CC through BOTH loops, switching back to the MC for all sc sts. Make sure that you count the bbl as either a flo or blo st so that you maintain the alternating pattern repeat.

Round 4 (WS): Ch1, *1sc in blo, 1sc in flo, 1bbl, 1sc in flo, 1sc in blo, 1sc in flo; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 5-7: As Round 2

Round 8: Ch1, *[1sc in blo, 1sc in flo] twice, 1sc in blo, 1bbl; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 9 – 11: As Round 2

Rounds 12-27,: Rep Rounds 4 – 11 (finishing on a Round 11 rep)

Continue to Gusset

Note that if you want to make your ankle longer, you can repeat these rounds until it reaches the desired length. If you are altering from the suggested row count, make sure you take note of how many rows your work so you can do the same on the other side and that the altered length will still fit suitably around the ankle / lower calf.

You should make sure you finish on a Round 7 or Round 11 rs rep.

You’re now finished with the bobbles and will be working with the MC for the remainder of the Gusset, and Foot.

Gusset

Continuing from ankle

Round 1(WS): Ch1, work in patt for 27 sts (half way around the circumference), then work 35fsc (starting the first fsc in the base of the previous st), ss to top of first st, turn. 62 sts

Round 2: Ch1, work in patt around circumference to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 3-4: As Round 2

At this point, try on your sock and check you can easily get your foot through the ankle and opening of the gusset.

Next you will start to decrease the circumference of your gusset to the foot by placing decreases on each side of the foot (in the underneath section where you made the foundation single crochet).

When working the sc2tog, do so in patt (i.e. in the flo or blo)

Round 5 (dec): Ch1, work in patt for 27 sts, then work 2sc2tog (over 4 sts) in patt, continue in patt to 4 sts from end, 2sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 58 sts

Round 6: Ch1, work in patt to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Rounds 7-8: Rep Rounds 5 and 6

Your sock should now have 54 sts.

Try it on again to check fit before continuing with the foot.

Foot

Continue to work in patt for 22 more rounds or until sock foot reaches desired foot length, remembering you still have the toe (around 3cm) to work and that the foot should be a little shorter than your actual foot length

If you change the number of rounds, make a note of the number you work and finish on a RS round.

Toe

I worked the toe in the MC, but if you wish to use a CC, change your yarn now.

To work the toe, you will place two decreases next to each other at the ‘sides’ of the foot. You may find it helpful to use place markers here so you don’t have to count.

Each decrease round, you will work 2 fewer stitches between each set of decreases than you did in the previous round. I have written it out in full below but you will soon get the hang of the decrease pattern.

Round 1 (WS): Ch1, working through BOTH loops for all of the toe, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 54 sts

Round 2 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 23 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 50 sts

Round 3 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 21 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 46 sts

Round 4 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 19 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog ss to top of first st, turn. 42 sts

Round 5 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 17 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 20(26, 32, 32, 38, 46) sts

Round 6 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 15 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 34 sts

Round 7 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 13 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 30 sts

Round 8 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 11 sts, 2sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 2 from end, 1sc2tog, ss to top of first st, turn. 26 sts

Turn inside out and ss remaining sts together to form toe seam

Fasten off and continue to heel

Afterthought Heel

You can learn more about crochet heel types in this article.

Once again, I worked the heel in the MC, but if you wish to use a CC, change your yarn now.

You will start the heel by decreasing the sts in the foot side of the heel opening, so they match the number of sts in the ankle side. Once you have the same number of stitches on either side of the heel opening, you will decrease in the same way you worked the toe, to close the heel.

You should start with 62 sts around the heel opening.

With rs facing, using a 4mm hook, join chosen yarn to corner of heel opening, and working along the foot side;

Round 1 (dec) (RS): Ch1, working through both loops throughout the heel, 1sc in first st, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 29 sts, 1sc2tog, 1sc, put a PM into the sc you just worked, continuing on the ankle side of the heel opening 1sc in the next 18(21, 24, 24, 27, 31) sts to end, turn.60 sts

Round 2 (dec): Ch1, 1sc in next 27 sts to PM, 1sc in same st as PM and move PM up, 1sc2tog, 1sc in each st to 3 from end, 1sc2tog, 1sc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn. 58 sts

Round 3: Ch1, 1sc, 1sc2tog, 1sc in next 25 sts to 3 sts from PM, 1sc2tog, 1sc in same st as PM, move PM up, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 56 sts

Round 4: As Round 2. 54 sts

Continue to closing the heel

Closing the heel

You should now have the same number of sts on the foot and ankle side of the heel. That’s 54 sts in total. 

You will continue to close the heel using the same method you did for the toe. You can use the PM to assist if you like or remove it at this point.

Starting at Round 2, repeat instructions as for the toe, continuing the decrease pattern until you have 12 sts unworked.

Turn slipper sock inside out and ss the last 6 sts on each side together to create a heel seam.

Finishing

Fasten off, sew in ends

Turn your slipper socks the right way around and, if desired, add some ’sock stop’ glue or anti-slip adhesive dots to the base of the slipper to avoid slipping.

Then get your toes cosy!

Sharing your finished makes

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Happy Hooking 

Dx

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