Circles in the sand: Filet crochet top pattern

‘Circles in the sand’ is a round yoke top down summer crochet sweater / t-shirt with circle and wave motifs made with the very satisfying (in my experience) filet crochet technique.

It makes a great tee for summer days, warm evenings, festivals and to throw over a swim suit and shorts at the beach.

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Pattern Notes

• Please read through the pattern and all associated notes before starting your project
• This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology (UK equivalents are given in brackets in the abbreviations list where applicable)
• Numbers at the end of a round indicate the number of stitches in that round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
• Turning chains do not count as stitches
• Chain stitches / chain spaces within the rounds are included in the stitch count
• The first stitch of each round should be worked into the top of the last stitch from the previous round, unless otherwise indicated (make sure you do not work into the slip stitch used to join the round)
• Wrong and right sides are nominal until the yoke is split when they should be followed
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated 
• Instructions written between [square brackets] should be worked the specific number of times instructed

Construction

• The sweater is worked top down 
• You will work the circular yoke in turned rounds, split it, forming the body and sleeves, which are then worked separately
• You may find this article on general tips for top-down yoke garments useful if this construction method is new to you

Skills Used

• Knowledge of basic crochet stitches, techniques and terminology is assumed
• Chainless foundation rows to start – learn more here
• Extended stitches (see special stitches)
• Working in turned rounds with simple increases
• The design uses filet crochet to create the circle and wave patterns (see notes below and additional tutorial about this technique) 
• Blocking is encouraged to smooth out the yoke increases and make the most of the filet pattern

Materials

Crochet Hook

4.5mm crochet hook, or size needed to match gauge. I used my 4.5mm clover amour

Yarn

You will need approximately 960(1110, 1250, 1420)m / 400(460, 520, 590)g sport weight yarn depending on the size chosen.

For the yarn in the sample pictured, this is equivalent to approximately 8(10, 11, 12) balls of We Crochet, Galileo, 50% merino wool, 50% viscose from bamboo, 50g ball = 120m / 131yds, shade: Stardust (T061).

Substitution Options 

A similar sport weight yarn will create a similar effect. I found that this yarn was closer to a double knit weight than a fingering or 4ply, so a light dk may also work. Make sure you swatch with your chosen yarn to ensure you are happy with the resulting fabric and drape, as well as to match gauge.

Different fibres and yarns will produce a different finished result.

You may find this post useful when choosing yarn.

Other Materials & Notions

Yarn needle & scissors

I encourage blocking this project, in which case I recommend a blocking matt and pins. Learn more about blocking here.

Measurements & Finished Size

• The sweater is designed to be a relaxed fit, flowing garment
• The pattern is designed for adults and offered in 4 sizes with each size spanning a range of ‘traditional’ standard women’s sizes
• The amount of positive ease in the finished sweater will vary depending on your size and the size you’ve chosen to make
• Approximate measurements of the finished garment are given below to help you in choosing a suitable size for you / the recipient of the garment
• Instructions for different sizes are written in increasing order, with the smallest size first and larger sizes following in bracket, i.e. 1(2, 3, 4) Stitches or Rounds
• The sample you see pictured is a size 1 worn by me, UK size 8-10 (US 4-6), 5ft 1in

To Fit Bust Range (cm): 76-96(96-117, 117-137, 137-158)

To Fit Bust Range (in): 30-38(38-46, 46-54, 54-62)

Approx Finished Bust (cm): 121(136, 151, 166)

Approx Finished Bust (in): 48(54, 60, 66)

Length (cm): 52(53, 54, 55)

Length (in): 20.5(21, 21.5, 22)

Sleeve Circumference at Yoke Split (cm): 37(43, 49, 55)

Sleeve Circumference at Yoke Split (in): 14.5(17, 19.5, 22)

Stitches & Abbreviations: US terms 

(UK Equivalent in Brackets)

• ch = chain
• edc = extended double crochet (UK extended treble crochet) – see special stitches
• fsc = foundation single crochet (UK foundation double crochet) – tutorial here
• inc = increase – denotes increase round
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
• sk = skip (UK miss)
• ss = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches 

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

Ch2, insert hook into second chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base chain of the next fsc), yo and pull through 2 loops to complete the st. To start the next st, insert the hook under the ‘v’ of the base chain you just created, yo and pull up a loop. Repeat from * for required number of sts.

You can find more details on foundation rows including a tutorial here.

Extended Double Crochet (edc)

Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 1 loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops to complete the stitch.

You can find a tutorial for the extended double crochet here.

Filet Crochet

This pattern uses the filet crochet technique which creates an image by arranging ‘blocks’, made from 3edc, and ‘spaces’, made of [3edc, the, sk 2 sts].

The pattern should guide you through this process, but if you are new to working with this technique, you can read this post about filet crochet. This will help you to familiarise yourself with the technique.

Gauge

18 sts and 8 rows in 10cm of extended double crochet (after a gentle block) using a 4.5mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Learn how to make and measure a gauge swatch here

Purchase the ad-free print optimised PDF pattern for this design from Ravelry, Etsy or Love Crafts

The Pattern

Start Yoke

Round 1: Make 85(97, 109, 121)fsc, being careful not to twist your work, ss to first fsc to make a round, turn. 85(97, 109, 121)

Round 2: Ch1 (does not count as st here or throughout), 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 3 (inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, *1sc in next st, 2sc in next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 127(145, 163, 181) sts 

Round 4: Ch2 (does not count as st here or throughout), 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 5 (inc): Ch2, 1edc in first st, *2edc in next st, 1edc in next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 190(217, 244, 271) sts

Small Circles

Round 6: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 9 sts, [1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] twice, 1edc in next 12 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 7: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 9 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 8: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 3 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 12 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 9: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 12 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 10: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 9 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 11: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 12 sts, [1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] twice, 1edc in next 9 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 12: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 13 (inc): Ch2, 1edc in first st, *2edc in next st, 1edc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 253(289, 325, 361) sts

Round 14: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Large Circles

Round 15: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 15 sts, [1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] three times, 1edc in next 12 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 16: Ch2, starting in first st, *[1edc in next 9 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] twice, 1edc in next 12 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 17: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 9 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 15 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 18: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 3 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 21 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 19: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 21 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 20: As Round 18

Round 21: As Round 17

Round 22: As Round 16

Round 23: As Round 15

Remainder of yoke

Round 24: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 25 (inc): Ch2, 2edc in first st, *1edc in each of next 3 sts, 2edc in next st; rep from * to end, ss to top of first st, turn. 317(362, 407, 452) sts

Rounds 26-27(28, 29, 30): Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Body Section

Splitting the yoke

Body Round 1 (RS): Ch2, 1edc in next 100(113, 125, 138) sts, ch8(9, 10, 11), sk 58(68, 78, 88) sts, 1edc in next 101(113, 126, 138) sts, ch8(9, 10, 11), sk the last 58(68, 78, 88) sts, ss to top of first st, turn. 217(244, 271, 298) sts

After splitting the yoke, I recommend you try on the sweater. Firstly this is important to check that you’re happy with the fit. 

Secondly, with this pattern, I think it’s prudent to check that you are happy with the placement of the circles on your body. You may wish to try it on both ways around and mark a preferred side.

The front and back are the same in terms of sizing, the back just has the seam at the edge of the sleeve.

If you don’t keep an eye out, the larger circles may fall in somewhat unfortunate positions over the bust… or fortunate depending on your take. At this stage, I must share a confession…

When I did the photoshoot for this pattern I was actually wearing the sweater backwards, and in a couple of shots it fell so the circles were centred weirdly over my bust. The distribution on the other side is different in this size, so it’s not an over all issue with the garment, just my lack of attention. (Also a testament to how hard it is to notice the seam – can you spot it?)

I thought about re-shooting the images with the sweater on the right way round, but decided to leave them and draw your attention to my hiccup so it doesn’t catch you unawares.

Whatever your preference, I want you to be mindful of this aspect and make sure you’re happy with the positioning before you progress.

If you want to change the positioning of the circles, you can frog the garment back to just before the yoke split, fasten off the yarn, create a placement you’re happy with and mark the body and sleeve splits with stitch markers. Then you can reattach the yarn and start working along the body to split the yoke, per Body Round 1.

Body

Body Round 2 (WS): Ch2, 1edc in each st and underarm ch to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Body Round 3: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Body Wave Pattern

Wave Round 1 (WS): Ch2, *1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, [1edc in next 9 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] twice; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Wave Round 2:  Ch2, starting in first st, *[1edc in next 3 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts] 4 times, 1edc in next 3 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of first st, turn

Wave Round 3: Ch2, starting in first st, *1edc in next 6 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 9 sts, 1edc, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1edc in next 6 sts; rep from * to last st, 1edc in last st, ss to top of last st, turn

Wave Round 4: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Wave Rounds 5-12: Rep Wave Rounds 1-4

Final Body Section

Rounds 13-14: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 15: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st

Fasten off

Sleeves

Repeat on each side

With RS facing, join yarn to the centre of the back of the underarm chain. Ensure you are working in the opposite direction to the last round of the yoke before it was split;

Round 1 (RS): Ch2, 1edc in each ch and st around the armhole, ss to top of first st, turn. 66(77, 88, 99) sts

Rounds 2-3: Ch2, 1edc in each st to end, ss to top of first st, turn

Round 4: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, ss to top of first st

Fasten off

Finishing

Neckline

To finish you can add a small trim around the neckline;

Sew in your starting tail to join the back of the foundation single crochet (on the opposite sides from where you slip stitched to create a round).

With WS facing, Attach your yarn to the back of the foundation chain at the join. 

Round 1: Ch1, 1sc in the back of each fsc round, ss to top of first st

Fasten off, block and weave in ends

Sharing your finished makes

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Here’s how you can find me if you’d like to share your finished makes:

• On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #DoraDoes to share your finished projects or just tag me @doraexplored
• If you have the bug for creating garments, why not join my dedicated facebook group “My Crochet Wardrobe” and share them there?
• Sign up to the WiP Tip for weekly crochet chat, offers and exclusives straight to your inbox – click here to sign up

Happy Hooking 

Dx

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