This super cosy shaped jumper dress is made from side to side using a simple ribbing technique. It falls somewhere between a jumper dress and a body con shape with loose fitting sleeves and… my new favourite to rival pockets… thumb holes in the cuffs!
The pattern below is written in size small with guidance on how to adjust for an individual fit.
- Knowledge of basic crochet stitches is assumed
- Working in the Back Loop Only
- Simple decreases
- Foundation stitches (see special stitches – modifications given)
Approx 1400m / 1540yds of Medium / Worsted / Aran Yarn
I used 7 and a half balls of Patons Decor which is a wool / acrylic blend. My step-mum gave me free range of her yarn stash when I was visiting her in Canada a couple of years back and I have a whole bunch of this so it is perfect for big projects – though not widely available in the UK. Whatever yarn you choose, make sure it meets gauge by working a quick gauge swatch!
17 sts x 12 rows in 10cm x 10cm of half double crochet worked in the back loop only using a 5mm hook or size needed to obtain tension.
Size and Measurements
The pattern describes a size S which is a UK size 8-10 (US 4-6).
You can easily adjust the pattern to fit any size by adding more stitches to the rows for the length and more rows for the width (i.e. to go up a dress size). Guidance is given throughout the pattern on how to do this. It will be helpful for you to take the following measurements to ensure you create a dress which fits.
A) Total length – 84cm / 33in measured from shoulder to bottom of the hem
B) Shoulder to waist (top of hip) – 42cm / 16.5in
C) Waist – 72cm / 29in
D) Hips – 80cm / 32in
Because the dress is made using a ribbed stitch there is quite a lot of horizontal stretch in the body.
If you are making adjustments to the size, be sure to make a note of your stitch and row counts so you can repeat them on both sides! (You might think you will remember but you won’t… I can’t tell you how many times I’ve made this mistake!!)
- This pattern uses US crochet terms
- Numbers in brackets at the end of a row / round indicate the number of stitches in that row / round and are only given at the start of a section or where there is a change
- Turning chains do not count as stitches
- The dress is worked from side to side in vertical rows
- The body and sleeve stitches are all worked in the back loop only (BLO) throughout the pattern. This is specified at the start of the pattern but not throughout
- The body is made from two panels which are seamed up the side and at the shoulders
- Odd numbered rows in the body are worked from the shoulder towards the hem and even numbered rows are worked from the hem up towards the shoulders
- The sleeves are worked in rows at right angles to the body
Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms)
(UK Equivalent in Brackets)
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
fhdc = foundation half double crochet – see special stitches
hdc – half double crochet (UK half treble)
rep = repeat
RS = Right Side
sc = single crochet (UK double crochet)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 together – see special stitches
sk = skip (UK miss)
ss = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = Wrong Side
yo = yarn over
Foundation half double crochet (fhdc):
Ch3, yo, insert hook into 3rd chain from hook, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). *Yo and pull through 1 loop (this creates the base stitch of the next fhdc). Yo and pull through all 3 loops to complete the st. To start the next st, yo and insert the hook into the v of the base stitch, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Repeat from * for required number of sts.
You can find more details on foundation rows including a tutorial in the Crochet Resources Section of this site.
If you struggle with this technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches needed plus 1, then work 1hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each st across to achieve the required number of sts.
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
Insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops.
Length (Measurement A)
If you would like the dress to be longer or shorter, then increase or decrease the number of stitches in the foundation chain (row 1). I have worked a foundation row of 130 sts which gives a length of 77cm / 30in before you add the hem which measures 7cm / 3in.
Hip Shaping (Measurement B)
If you are changing the length of the dress, ensure that you work the hip shaping (rows 2 and 3 below) to the correct length. I have worked 60 sts up from the bottom leaving 70 sts for the body length from the top of the hip up to the shoulders (measurement B). If you have changed the length of the foundation row, use your shoulder to waist measurement (B) to ensure that the body length is correct.
ALL STITCHES IN BODY PANELS ARE WORKED IN BLO
Row 1 (WS, working from shoulder to hem): 130fhdc, turn
Row 2 (working from hem to shoulder): Ch2, working in BLO here and throughout, 1hdc in next 58 sts, 1sc in next 2 sts, ss into next st, turn (61)
Row 3: Ch1, sk ss, 1sc in next 2sc, 1hdc in next 58hdc, turn (60)
Row 4: Ch2, 1hdc in next 60 sts, insert hook into ch1, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into blo of where ss was made, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops, 1hdc in next 69 sts, turn (130)
Row 5: Ch2, 1hdc in each st to end, turn
Waist Measurement (C)
You will repeat row 5 across until the upper narrower part of the body panel reaches half of your waist measurement. I have repeated this to row 45 which means I have 43 rows across the waist once I took the hip shaping (rows 2 and 3) out.
Row 6-45: Rep Row 5
Repeat the hip shaping using the same stitch count as row 2 and 3, as follows:
Row 46: Ch2, 1hdc in next 58 sts, 1sc in next 2 sts, ss into next st, turn (61)
Row 47: Ch1, sk ss, 1sc in next 2 sc, 1hdc in next 58 hdc, turn (60)
Row 48: Ch2, 1hdc in next 60 sts, insert hook into ch1, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into blo where ss was made, yo, pull up a loop, yo,pull through all 3 loops, 1hdc in next 69 sts (130)
Place the two body panels RS together. Working from the bottom up, ss the sides together matching stitch for stitch with WS facing. Leave 35 sts unjoined for the arm holes.
The arm holes are fairly relaxed but if you want more space, leave more stitches unjoined
With WS facing.
Working from the outside in, ss together the top of the first 10 rows on each side to create shoulder seams.
If you want to create a wider or narrower neckline, change the number of stitches in the shoulder seam to create your desired size.
With WS facing, join yarn to shoulder seam, work through both loops
Row 1 : Ch1, work 1sc in the end of each row around the neckline, join to top of the first st with a ss, turn
Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st around, join to top of the first st with a ss.
Fasten off and sew in ends
With WS facing, join your yarn to the bottom of one of the side seams, work through both loops
Row 1: Ch1, work 1sc into the end of each row around the hem, join to top of the first st with a ss, turn
Row 2-15: Ch1, 1sc in each st around the hem, join to top of the first st with a ss, turn
Fasten off, sew in ends
Repeat on each side
The sleeves are worked in rows at right angles to the body, using shaping similar to that used for the hips. If you have left a wider arm hole, you will need to work more row repeats until the two sides of the sleeves join. Each time you work a row 3 and 4 repeat you are decreasing the number of rows there will be in the cuff.
If you want longer or shorter sleeves then you can increase or decrease the number of stitches in the foundation row (as we did with dress length).
With WS facing, join yarn to top of side seam at underarm.
Round 1: Ch1, 1sc through both loops in each st around arm hole, join to top of the first st with a ss, turn (70)
Now we will work in rows at right angles to the body. All stitches are worked in the blo
Row 1: 65fhdc, turn (65)
Row 2: Working in blo here and throughout, ch1, 1sc in next 20 sts, 1hdc in next 45 sts, ss into the next 3sts on round 1, turn
Row 3: Sk all ss, 1hdc in next 38 sts, 1sc in next 2 sts, ss into next st, turn
Row 4: Sk ss, 1sc in next 2 sts, 1hdc in next 38 sts, ss into next 3 sts on round 1, turn
Row 5: Sk all ss, 1hdc in next 65 sts, turn
Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in next 20 sts, 1hdc in next 45 sts, ss into next 3 sts on round 1, turn
Row 7-16: Rep row 5 and 6
Row 17-18: Rep row 3 and 4
Row 19-30: Rep row 5 and 6
Row 31-32: Rep row 3 and 4
Row 33-44: Rep row 5 and 6
Row 45-46: Rep row 3 and 4
Do not fasten off, continue to cuff
Repeat on either side
With WS facing and working through both loops
Note: If you have a different number of rows at the cuffs, work the decreases in a similar way to those below until your cuff reaches the desired size for your wrist. Just make sure you do the same on both sides!
Round 1: Ch1, 1sc in the end of each row, join to top of first st with ss, turn (38)
Round 2: Ch1, *sc2tog, sc in next 7sts*, 4 times, sc2tog, join to top of first st with ss, turn (33)
Round 3: Ch1, 1sc in each st around to end, join to top of first st with ss, turn
Round 4: Ch1, 1sc, *sc2tog, 1sc in next 6 sts* 4 times, join to top of first st with ss, turn (29)
Round 5: Ch1, *8sc, sc2tog* twice, 7sc, sc2tog, join to top of first st with ss, turn (26)
Round 6: Ch1, 1sc in each st around, join to top of first st with ss, turn
Round 7-10: Rep round 6
Round 11-15: Ch1, 1sc in each st around, do not join, turn
Round 16-20: Rep round 6
Fasten off, sew in all remaining ends
Turn right way round and enjoy your dress!
I hope you enjoy this pattern and, as always don’t forget to tag me on Instagram @doraexplored, or use #hookmehappy. I’d love to see and share your efforts!
You may sell what you make from this pattern but the pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared or reproduced without prior written consent. Photos may be shared with credit.
Copyright Dora Does 2018