The Heart Lines shrug is a practical cocoon cardi which is fun and easy to make using simple stitches and a little colour work (but not so much that the ends will drive you nuts!).  You can read all about the design process involved in the Heart Lines Shrug in this blog post, or scroll down for the free pattern

For a small fee, you can also purchase an add free printable version of this pattern on Ravelry.

This post may contain affiliate links which means if you follow the link and go on to make purchase then I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  These links are marked with (aff) and you can read my full affiliate disclosure here

Skill Level

This is a great pattern for beginner crocheters as it uses only simple stitches.  There is some colour work but it is a straightforward stitch repeat and easy construction, so it’s a perfect project for stitchflixing!

Pattern Notes

• This pattern uses US crochet terms, see below for abbreviations.
• Stitch counts are given in (brackets) at the end of the row.
• Ch3 is the equivalent of hdc and ch1, unless specified otherwise.
• Ch2 is the equivalent of sc and ch1, unless specified otherwise .
• Instructions written after *asterisks should be repeated as indicated.
• Unless otherwise indicated stitches should be worked in consecutive stitches.
• This shrug is worked as a rectangle top down, then folded and seamed to create arm holes. Short sleeves are added to finish.
• Picture guides for construction are given at the end of the pattern.
• This pattern uses chain stitches (ch), single crochet (sc) and half double crochet (hdc)(US terms)
• The pattern repeat for the rectangle is worked over a multiple of 3 plus 2 st

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms)

yds = yards

In = inches

g = grams

st = stitch / stitches

ch = chain

ss = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

fsc = foundation single crochet (see special stitches)

sk = skip 

yo = yarn over

rep = repeat

RS = right side

WS = wrong side

Special Stitches: 

Foundation Single Crochet – click here for instructions on foundation single crochet, including written instructions and a video tutorial.

If you struggle with this technique it can be replaced with making a chain of the number of stitches needed plus 1, then sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and across to the end.

Materials

Hook: 4.5mmm or as needed to meet gauge.  I am using half size up from hook recommended for yarn to create extra drape.

Yarn: Approximately 1500 yards (500g) acrylic double knit yarn (900yds in colour A and <300 yds in colours B and C for stripes)

The item pictured used Stylecraft Special DK (aff)(aff) in Sherbert (<  3balls, 900yds, 300g), Lipstick (< 1 ball, 300yds, 100g) and Candyfloss (< 1 ball, 300yds, 100g)

Other: Yarn needle & scissors

Sizing & Gauge

Gauge for pattern repeat: 2in(5cm) x 2in(5cm) = 9 st x 8 rows

The pattern is written in one size but you can increase or decrease the size by changing the size of the rectangle.  The number of stitches across represents the width of the shrug across the back and the number of rows represents the length of the cardigan.  Be sure to bear in mind the pattern repeats (multiple of 3 plus 2) if changing the width, and of the row repeats if changing the length (number of rows) of the shrug,

Based on this pattern and gauge the rectangle, before construction will measure

Width: 42In

Length: 38In / 95cm

Colour Changes

It is assumed you will fasten off at the end of each colour change. 

In the pattern, colour changes are instructed at the start of the row as “In colour A/B/C“

Colour A = Sherbert (turquoise)

Colour B = Lipstick (red)

Colour C = Candyfloss (pink)

The Pattern

To make the rectangle:

Row 1 In colour A : 190 fsc (190)

Row 2: ch3 (equivalent to hdc, ch1), turn, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st; rep from * to end (ch3, 94 hdc, 94 ch1 sp)

Row 3: ch2 (equivalent to sc, ch1), turn, 1sc in first ch1 sp *ch1, 1sc in next ch1 sp; rep from * to end (ch2, 94 sc, 94 ch1 sp)

Row 4-12: rep rows 2 and 3, finishing on a row 2 rep

Row 13 In colour B: ch1 (does not count as st), turn, 1sc into each st to end, making sure to work into (not over) the ch st from the previous row (190)

Row 14 In colour C: ch3, turn, *sk 1 st, 1hdc in next 3 st, ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st, ch1, sk 1 st; rep from * 31 times, hdc in last 2 st (190)

Row 15 In colour B: rep row 13

Row 16 In colour C: ch2 (does not count as st), turn, 1hdc in next 2 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc, *ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next st; rep From * 31 times to end (190)

Row 17 In colour B: rep row 13

Row 18 In colour C: rep row 14

Row 19 In colour B: rep row 13 

Row 20-42 In colour A: rep rows 2 and 3 finishing on a row 2 rep

Row 43-132: rep rows 13-42 three times (30 rows x3)

Row 133-139: rep rows 13-19

Row 140-150 in colour A: rep rows 2 and 3 finishing on a row 2 rep

Row 151: sc into each st across (190)

Fasten off and sew in ends

Construction

Lay your rectangle out on the floor.  You can block it if you like but the wobbly edges won’t be seen once it’s finished!

Fold the square in half with RS facing inwards (below left).  

• 

• 

Matching the edges row for row, sew up the sides from the open edge up to the start of the second set of stripes (63 rows), leaving openings for the arms between here and the centre fold.  

Open out into a diamond shape and you will see the arm holes (below).

Lapel

Working on the WS, make 3 rows of sc around the opening of the shrug (this would be the bottom edges of the fold, the first and last row of the rectangle).

Join with a ss at the end of each row, ch1and turn to start the next row.  

Fasten off and sew in ends to form the lapel.

Sleeves

Repeat for each arm hole.

With WS still facing, join colour A to the  seam at the bottom of the arm hole (where you sewed up the sides)

Round 1 In colour A: sc in seam, ch1, skip a hdc row *1sc in next sc row, ch1, sk hdc row; rep from * around arm hole,  ss into top of first sc (35 sc, 35 ch 1 sp) 

Round 2: ch2, turn, *1hdc in next ch1 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, join with ss to top of hdc (35 hdc, 35 ch1 sp) 

Round 3: ch1, turn, *1sc in next ch1 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, join with ss to top of sc (35 sc, 35 ch1 sp) 

Round 4-11: rep rounds 2 and 3, finishing with a round 3 rep   

Round 12 In colour B: ch1 (counts as st), turn, 1sc in each ch1 sp around, ss into top of ch1 (36) 

Round 13 In colour C: ch2 (does not count as st), turn *1hdc in next 3 sts, sk 1 st, 1hdc, ch1, sk 1 st; rep from * to end, join with ss to top of first hdc (36)

Round 14 In colour B: ch1 (does not count as st), turn, 1sc in each st around, ss into top of first sc (36)

Round 15 In colour C: ch2 (does not count as st), turn *1hdc in next st, sk 1 st, 1hdc in next 3 st, ch1 sk 1 st; rep from * to end, join with ss to top of first hdc (36)

Round 16: rep round 14

Round 17: rep round 13

Round 18: rep round 14

Fasten off and sew in ends

Turn you shrug the right side out and enjoy!

I hope you enjoy this pattern, and as always, don’t forget to tag me in your finished makes!  Nothing makes me happier than seeing my designs brought to life by others.  I love the colour choices and personal touches you add to the patterns!

On Instagram, you can use the hashtag #HookMeHappy or just tag @doradexplored.  You can tweet me your pictures, or add your them to my Facebook page.  And if socials aren’t your thing, feel free to email me your efforts.  It really does make my day!  I’m also a huge fan of Pinterest so if you like my patterns I’d love it if you pin them, or visit my Pinterest page which showcases some wonderful inspirational crochet patterns – the talent out there blows my mind!

Until next time.

Happy Hooking

Dx

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(C) DoraDoes 2018.  You may sell what you make from my patterns, but please credit me as the designer. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be shared.  My photos may be shared with credit.